The Legend of Tobiume: The Miracle of Dazaifu Tenmangu
Japan is a land where history and mythology often intertwine seamlessly, creating spiritual landscapes that captivate travelers from around the globe. While the cherry blossom (sakura) often takes center stage in Japanese culture, the plum blossom (ume) holds a deeper, more scholarly significance. Nowhere is this more evident than at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka Prefecture, home to a botanical miracle known as Tobiume, or the “Flying Plum Tree.”
Introduction
Located just a short train ride from the bustling city of Fukuoka, Dazaifu Tenmangu is one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan. It is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the deity of learning, culture, and the arts. Within the shrine’s main precinct stands a gnarled, ancient white plum tree known as Tobiume. According to lore, this tree possesses a soul so loyal that it flew hundreds of miles overnight to be reunited with its master. This article explores the poignant history, the supernatural legend, and the modern cultural significance of this sacred tree.
Origins: The Scholar God
To understand the gravity of the Flying Plum Tree, one must first understand the man behind the legend: Sugawara no Michizane (845–903). Born into a family of scholars during the Heian Period, Michizane was a child prodigy who rose rapidly through the ranks of the imperial court in Kyoto.
He was a brilliant poet and politician, deeply favored by Emperor Uda. However, his meteoric rise drew the jealousy of the Fujiwara clan, a powerful aristocratic family that dominated Japanese politics. Through political maneuvering and slander, the Fujiwara convinced the retirement-bound Emperor Daigo that Michizane was plotting treason.
In the year 901, Michizane was stripped of his high rank and exiled to Dazaifu, a government outpost in Kyushu that was, at the time, considered the ends of the earth. He was forced to leave his wife and children behind in Kyoto, taking with him only his grief and his love for poetry.
The Legend of the Flying Plum
The legend of Tobiume begins at Michizane’s residence in Kyoto on the eve of his departure for exile. Michizane had a deep affection for his garden, particularly for a cherry tree, a pine tree, and his beloved plum tree. Overcome with sorrow, he penned a farewell poem to his plum tree, speaking to it as if it were an old friend.
The Poem of Farewell
The famous waka poem reads:
Kochi fukaba / Nioi okose yo / Ume no hana / Aruji nashi tote / Haru na wasure so
Translated, it means:
“When the east wind blows, let it send your fragrance to me, oh plum blossoms. Although your master is gone, do not forget the spring.”
The Miracle Flight
According to the legend, the trees in his garden were so moved by his departure that they reacted supernaturally. The cherry tree, overcome with grief, withered and died. The pine tree attempted to follow him but ran out of energy and landed in Hyogo Prefecture (giving rise to the “Flying Pine” legend there).
However, the plum tree, driven by intense loyalty and longing for its master, uprooted itself. It soared through the night sky, traversing approximately 600 kilometers from Kyoto to Dazaifu, landing firmly in the ground at Michizane’s new residence. This tree, now known as Tobiume, has stood guard over his spirit ever since.
Modern Culture and Significance
Today, the Tobiume stands to the right of the Honden (Main Hall) at Dazaifu Tenmangu. It is revered not just as a botanical wonder, but as a living symbol of loyalty and the bond between nature and humanity.
The Herald of Spring
Botanically, the Tobiume is a white plum variety. Uniquely, it is always the first tree to bloom in the shrine, often flowering in early January while snow still dusts the grounds. Its early bloom is considered a harbinger of spring and a sign of good luck for students preparing for entrance exams, who flock to the shrine to pray to Tenjin (the deified Michizane).
Umegae Mochi
The culture of the plum extends to local cuisine. The most famous snack in Dazaifu is Umegae Mochi (plum bough rice cake). While it doesn’t contain actual plums, the grilled rice cake filled with red bean paste is stamped with a plum blossom pattern. It originates from a story where an elderly woman offered a similar cake to the starving, exiled Michizane using a plum branch as a serving plate.
Traveler’s Tips
If you are planning a pilgrimage to see the Flying Plum Tree, here is how to make the most of your visit:
- Best Time to Visit: To see Tobiume in bloom, visit between late January and mid-February. The shrine grounds have over 6,000 other plum trees that bloom through March, creating a breathtaking sea of pink and white.
- Access: Take the Nishitetsu line from Nishitetsu Fukuoka (Tenjin) Station to Dazaifu Station. The ride takes about 25 minutes.
- Rituals: Before approaching the main hall, purify your hands at the temizuya. Rub the head of the statue of the nade-ushi (petting ox) for wisdom and health, then proceed to the Flying Plum Tree.
- Souvenirs: Purchase a Omamori (charm) for academic success, which often features the plum blossom crest.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deeper historical and mythological context of Japanese Shinto and court culture:
- The Kitano Tenjin Engi Emaki: These illustrated handscrolls from the Kamakura period detail the life, exile, and deification of Sugawara no Michizane.
- The Kojiki and Nihon Shoki: While these ancient texts (dating to the 8th century) predate Michizane, they establish the foundation of Shinto beliefs, the power of kami (spirits), and the significance of nature worship that allows for legends like the Flying Plum to exist.
- The Kokin Wakashu: An early imperial anthology of waka poetry that helps contextualize the literary world Michizane inhabited and the importance of nature in Heian-era expression.