Kuginuki Jizo: Kyoto’s Legendary Nail-Pulling Temple
When travelers envision Kyoto, images of the Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji) or the vermilion gates of Fushimi Inari usually spring to mind. However, nestled in the quiet streets of the Nishijin district lies a temple that offers a far more intimate, and arguably more fascinating, glimpse into the spiritual life of locals. This is Shaku-ji, affectionately known by everyone as Kuginuki Jizo (The Nail-Pulling Jizo).
Famous for its walls covered in votive tablets featuring pliers and nails, this temple is a sanctuary for those seeking relief from physical pain and mental anguish. Here is why this unique site deserves a spot on your Kyoto itinerary.
Origins of the Stone Buddha
Officially named Shaku-ji, the temple traces its history back to the early Heian period. It is traditionally attributed to Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the renowned founder of Shingon Buddhism, who established the temple in the year 819.
The central object of worship is a stone statue of Jizo Bodhisattva (Kshitigarbha). In Japanese Buddhism, Jizo is a beloved figure, known as the guardian of children and travelers, and a savior who alleviates the suffering of beings in the hell realms. While thousands of Jizo statues exist across Japan, the one residing here has evolved a very specific, localized reputation that centers on the concept of extracting pain.
The Legend of the Nail
The temple’s nickname, “Kuginuki,” literally translates to “nail puller.” The origin of this name is wrapped in a fascinating folktale that dates back to the mid-Heian period.
According to the legend, a wealthy merchant named Kinokuniya suffered from excruciating pain in his hands. No doctor could cure him. In his desperation, he prayed fervently to the Jizo at Shaku-ji. One night, the Jizo appeared to him in a dream.
The deity revealed that in a past life, the merchant had cursed a rival by driving a nail into the hand of a straw effigy (a traditional cursing ritual). The Jizo told the merchant that this past karma was the source of his current agony. In the dream, the Jizo compassionately used a pair of pliers to pull the nail from the doll’s hand.
When the merchant awoke, his pain had vanished instantly. Rushing to the temple to give thanks, he examined the stone Jizo statue and was shocked to find a blood-stained nail lying before it. Since that day, the temple has been known as the place where the Jizo pulls out the “nails” of suffering from the faithful.
Modern Culture and the Wall of Pliers
Today, Kuginuki Jizo is a vibrant center of worship, distinct from the quiet, museum-like atmosphere of Kyoto’s larger Zen temples. The most striking visual element of the temple is the Hondo (Main Hall).
The walls of the hall are plastered with thousands of ema (votive plaques). Unlike the wooden boards found at other shrines featuring horses or zodiac animals, these plaques are attached with real iron pliers (pincers) and eight-inch nails.
Pilgrims who are suffering from physical ailments or “nails of the heart” (worries and psychological distress) come here to pray. When their prayers are answered and the pain is removed, they return to donate a plier tablet as an offering of gratitude. The sheer volume of these tools surrounding the altar creates a powerful atmosphere of collective healing and hope.
Locals also practice Ohyakudo-mairi here. This is a ritual of walking back and forth between two points (usually the hall and a stone marker) one hundred times while chanting to the deity. If you visit, you will likely see people clutching counting sticks, circling the main hall in deep concentration.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Kuginuki Jizo offers a break from the tourist crowds and a chance to engage with living folklore.
- Location: The temple is located in the Kamigyo Ward, near the Senbon-Imadegawa intersection. It is easily accessible by Kyoto City Bus.
- Atmosphere: This is a neighborhood temple. Please be respectful of the locals performing the Ohyakudo ritual. Silence is appreciated near the main hall.
- Souvenirs: You can purchase unique amulets (omamori) specifically for pain relief. There are also distinct visuals of pliers on the charms.
- Timing: The temple is open daily, but visiting on the 24th of the month (Jizo’s holy day) offers a livelier experience.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deeper roots of Japanese mythology and the synthesis of Buddhism with indigenous beliefs, the following texts provide essential context:
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While Kuginuki Jizo was established later, this text lays the foundation for understanding the imperial history and the spiritual landscape of the Kansai region.
- Konjaku Monogatari Shu: This collection of tales from the late Heian period often features stories of miraculous interventions by Bodhisattvas like Jizo, similar to the legend of the nail.
- Genkou Shakusho: A history of Japanese Buddhism written in the Kamakura period, which documents the rise of specific temple cults and the deeds of monks like Kobo Daishi.