The Great Ginkgo of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu: A Tale of Samurai and Rebirth
In the heart of Kamakura, the ancient capital of the samurai, stands Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. For nearly a millennium, a colossal sentinel watched over the stone steps leading to the main hall: the Great Ginkgo (O-Icho). While the tree physically succumbed to the elements in 2010, its spirit, history, and biological resilience continue to captivate visitors from around the globe. This is not just a story of a tree; it is a narrative interwoven with political intrigue, assassination, and the enduring power of nature.
Origins: The Guardian of the Stone Steps
Before its collapse, the Great Ginkgo was estimated to be roughly 1,000 years old, designated as a Prefectural Natural Monument. Standing at approximately 30 meters (98 feet) with a trunk circumference of nearly 7 meters, it was a botanical giant.
In Shinto belief, ancient trees are often considered shinboku (sacred trees), serving as vessels for spirits or acting as guardians of the shrine grounds. This particular ginkgo was planted intimately close to the steep stone stairway leading to the Hongu (Main Hall), acting as a silent witness to the rise and fall of the Kamakura Shogunate. Its origins date back to the Heian period, long before Kamakura became the seat of military power in Japan, making it one of the oldest living entities in the region until the early 21st century.
The Legend of the Hiding Ginkgo
The tree is most famous for a bloody chapter in Japanese history, earning it the moniker Kakure-Icho or the “Hiding Ginkgo.”
The Assassination of Minamoto no Sanetomo
The legend takes us back to the snowy evening of January 27, 1219. Minamoto no Sanetomo, the third Shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate, was descending the stone steps after a ceremony celebrating his promotion to Minister of the Right. He was an artist and a poet, often considered too gentle for the violent politics of his time.
Lurking in the shadows was his nephew, the priest Kugyo. Kugyo believed Sanetomo was responsible for the death of his father (the second Shogun) and sought revenge. According to historical accounts and local lore, Kugyo hid behind the massive trunk of the Great Ginkgo tree to ambush the Shogun.
As Sanetomo stepped down the stairs, Kugyo leapt from the shadows of the tree, decapitating the Shogun and effectively ending the direct lineage of the Minamoto clan. While some historians debate whether the tree was large enough in 1219 to hide a man, the legend is inseparable from the tree’s identity, casting a somber yet fascinating aura over the site.
Modern Culture: Collapse and Resurrection
For centuries, the tree was a symbol of longevity. However, nature eventually took its toll.
The Storm of 2010
In the early hours of March 10, 2010, a fierce gale swept through Kamakura. Weakened by rot and the sheer weight of its age, the Great Ginkgo was uprooted and crashed onto the stone steps it had guarded for a millennium. The news shocked Japan; it was akin to a national monument crumbling. Many locals felt a deep sense of loss, interpreting the fall as a bad omen or simply the end of an era.
A Symbol of Rebirth
However, the story did not end with the fall. Shinto emphasizes renewal and the cyclical nature of life. Shrine officials and botanists moved the main trunk to the side to be preserved, but they left the root system intact. Remarkably, within a year, green shoots—known as hikobae—began to sprout from the stump.
Today, these young trees are growing vigorously, protected by a sacred rope (shimenawa). Visitors now come not only to mourn the ancient giant but to witness the “child” trees, which symbolize resilience and hope. It has become a modern power spot, representing the ability to rise again after a fall.
Traveler’s Tips
If you are planning a pilgrimage to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu to see the successor of the Great Ginkgo, keep these tips in mind:
- Best Time to Visit: Late November to early December is peak season for autumn foliage in Kamakura. While the original giant is gone, the surrounding ginkgo and maple trees turn the shrine grounds into a tapestry of gold and crimson.
- Location: The shrine is a 10-minute walk from Kamakura Station along the Wakamiya Oji avenue. You can also take the bustling Komachi-dori shopping street, though it is often crowded.
- Etiquette: When photographing the young ginkgo shoots, be respectful. Do not cross the barriers. Remember to cleanse your hands at the temizuya before approaching the main hall.
- Nearby Attractions: After visiting the shrine, consider visiting the Kamakura Museum of National Treasures to see artifacts related to the Minamoto clan.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the historical context surrounding the Great Ginkgo, consider exploring the following texts:
- Azuma Kagami (The Mirror of the East): This is the primary historical record for the Kamakura period. It details the daily events of the Shogunate, including the assassination of Sanetomo, providing the factual backbone to the legend.
- Gukansho: A historical text written by the monk Jien shortly after the assassination, offering a contemporary perspective on the fall of the Minamoto line.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While this text predates the Kamakura period, reading it provides essential context on the Shinto reverence for nature and the significance of shinboku (sacred trees) in Japanese culture.