Anchin and Kiyohime: The Tragic Tale of the Temple Bell
Japan is a land steeped in folklore, where spirits, demons, and tragic lovers inhabit the ancient shrines and temples scattered across the countryside. Among these stories, few are as passionate and terrifying as the legend of Anchin and Kiyohime (Anchin-Kiyohime no Kane). Associated with the Dojoji Temple in Wakayama Prefecture, this tale of obsession, betrayal, and transformation remains one of the most enduring narratives in Japanese culture.
For travelers visiting the spiritual heartland of Japan, understanding this legend adds a layer of profound depth to the serene landscapes of the Kii Peninsula.
Origins of the Tale
The story of Anchin and Kiyohime is not a modern fabrication; it is a folktale with deep historical roots. The narrative first appeared in the Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past), a massive collection of stories compiled in the late Heian period (around the 12th century).
Originally, the story served as a Buddhist morality tale warning monks against the dangers of lust and the attachment to worldly desires. Over centuries, however, the focus shifted from a simple cautionary tale to a sympathetic, albeit terrifying, exploration of female rage and sorrow. It bridged the gap between oral folklore and high art, becoming a foundational plot for Noh and Kabuki theater.
The Legend of the Burning Bell
The story takes place in the 10th century. Anchin was a handsome young monk on a pilgrimage to the sacred temples of Kumano. On his journey, he sought lodging at a manor in the village of Hidaka, where the landlord’s daughter, Kiyohime, became enamored with him.
Depending on the version of the story, Anchin either jokingly promised to marry her once his pilgrimage was complete or simply rejected her advances. Kiyohime, naive and deeply infatuated, believed his words were a solemn vow. She waited patiently for his return.
However, upon finishing his pilgrimage, Anchin bypassed the manor, fearing the confrontation. When Kiyohime discovered his deception, her sorrow transformed into an uncontrollable rage. She pursued him barefoot, her human form slipping away as her fury grew. By the time she reached the banks of the Hidaka River, she had transformed into a massive, fire-breathing serpent (or dragon).
Anchin fled to Dojoji Temple, seeking the protection of the priests. They lowered the great temple bell (bonsho) over him, hiding the monk inside the heavy bronze casing.
But the serpent Kiyohime could not be stopped. She slithered over the temple walls, sniffed out her lover, and coiled her massive body around the bell. Driven by the heat of her passion and hatred, she breathed fire onto the bronze. The bell grew white-hot, cooking the trapped monk inside alive. Having destroyed the object of her obsession, Kiyohime threw herself into the river and drowned, ending the tragic cycle.
Modern Culture and Performance
Today, the legend of Anchin and Kiyohime is most famous for its adaptation into traditional Japanese performing arts.
Noh and Kabuki
The story serves as the basis for “Dojoji,” one of the most important plays in the Noh theater repertoire. It is also the source material for the Kabuki dance drama “Musume Dojoji” (The Maiden at Dojoji Temple). In the Kabuki version, a beautiful dancer (actually the vengeful spirit of Kiyohime) returns to the temple to curse the consecration of a new bell.
The imagery of the serpent woman is closely linked to the Hannya mask, often used in Noh to represent a woman transformed into a demon by jealousy. This cultural icon remains a powerful symbol in anime, literature, and art today.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Dojoji Temple
If you wish to walk the path of this legend, a visit to Dojoji Temple in Hidakagawa, Wakayama Prefecture, is essential. It is the oldest temple in Wakayama and holds a unique atmosphere distinct from the major sites in Kyoto.
- The E-toki Storytelling: One of the highlights of visiting Dojoji is the E-toki (picture explaining). The resident monks use illustrated scrolls to narrate the story of Anchin and Kiyohime to visitors. Even if you don’t speak fluent Japanese, the dramatic delivery and visual aids make the experience captivating.
- The Missing Bell: Ironically, there is no bell at Dojoji today. According to history (and legend), after the original bell was destroyed by Kiyohime, a second bell was cast centuries later. However, legend says this second bell brought bad luck and sounded like a woman crying, so it was eventually removed and taken to Myomanji Temple in Kyoto.
- Best Time to Visit: The temple is famous for its cherry blossoms in spring, creating a stark contrast between the pink, delicate flowers and the fiery history of the site.
- Getting There: Take the JR Kinokuni Line to Dojoji Station. The temple is a short, scenic walk from the station.
Sources & Further Reading
To dive deeper into the historical context of Japanese mythology and folklore, consider exploring the following texts:
- Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past): The primary source for the Anchin and Kiyohime legend.
- Uji Shui Monogatari: Another collection of Kamakura-period tales that references similar folklore.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While the specific story of Anchin and Kiyohime is not in this 8th-century text, the Nihon Shoki provides the foundational understanding of Japanese mythology, serpent deities, and the spiritual landscape of the Kii Peninsula.
The Bell of Anchin and Kiyohime stands as a reminder that in Japanese folklore, the line between love and hate is as thin as the bronze of a temple bell—and just as easily shattered.