Ghosts of Goryokaku: Exploring Hakodate’s Haunted Fort
When travelers think of Hakodate, the southern jewel of Hokkaido, images of glittering night views, fresh squid sashimi, and the majestic, star-shaped Goryokaku Fort usually come to mind. During the day, particularly in late April, the fort is a sea of pink cherry blossoms, bustling with families and tourists. However, as the sun sets and the shadows lengthen across the moat, a different atmosphere takes hold. The “Ghosts of Goryokaku” are not merely campfire stories; they are the spiritual echoes of one of Japan’s bloodiest turning points.
Introduction
Goryokaku is an architectural marvel—Japan’s first Western-style star fort. Today, it serves as a peaceful public park, but the soil here was once soaked in the blood of the samurai. It was the site of the final battle of the Boshin War, the civil war that marked the end of the feudal Shogunate and the rise of the modern Meiji era. For culture enthusiasts and ghost hunters alike, Goryokaku represents a convergence of tragic history and supernatural folklore, where the spirits of the “Last Samurai” are said to still wander.
Origins: The Republic of Ezo
To understand the ghosts, one must understand the tragedy. Completed in 1864, the fort was intended to defend against Western imperialist threats. However, by 1868, it became the headquarters for the breakaway “Republic of Ezo,” led by Shogunate loyalists who refused to accept the new Imperial government.
Among these loyalists was the Shinsengumi, a special police force famously known as the “Wolves of Mibu.” Leading the charge was the legendary Hijikata Toshizo, the Shinsengumi’s vice-commander. Known for his beauty, charisma, and ruthless discipline, Hijikata and his men made their final stand at Goryokaku. In 1869, the Imperial forces besieged the fort. The battle was fierce, resulting in thousands of deaths. Hijikata himself was shot while on horseback, dying a warrior’s death at the age of 34. With his fall, the resistance crumbled, and the era of the samurai effectively ended.
The Legend: Restless Spirits of the North
The legends of the Ghosts of Goryokaku are deeply rooted in the Japanese concept of Onryo or Jibakurei—spirits bound to a specific location due to violent death or deep regret.
The Phantom Vice-Commander
The most enduring legend concerns Hijikata Toshizo himself. Local folklore claims that on nights when the moon is obscured by clouds, the distinct sound of Western-style military boots can be heard pacing the perimeter of the moats. Some witnesses have reported seeing a figure in a black frock coat, the standard uniform of the Shinsengumi during their final days, gazing longingly toward the south—toward Kyoto and Edo, the homes they would never see again.
The Headless Soldier
During the chaotic final days of the siege, beheadings and artillery fire were commonplace. A darker rumor persists of a headless figure dressed in tattered Shogunate blue, wandering near the bridges of the fort. It is said to be a foot soldier searching for his missing commander, eternally lost in the confusion of the battle.
The Weeping Cherry Trees
While the cherry blossoms of Goryokaku are world-famous, an old superstition suggests that the trees bloom so vividly because their roots feed on the blood of the fallen samurai. In the quiet of winter, when the snow covers the star-shaped earthworks, visitors have reported inexplicable sensations of intense sorrow and the faint smell of gunpowder and iron lingering in the crisp air.
Modern Culture and Legacy
Today, the ghosts of Goryokaku are celebrated as much as they are feared. Hijikata Toshizo has become a pop-culture icon, romanticized in countless anime and manga series such as Hakuoki, Golden Kamuy, and Gintama. This romanticism draws a new wave of pilgrims—not just history buffs, but fans visiting the spot where the “Demon Vice-Commander” fell.
Every year, the Hakodate Goryokaku Festival holds a parade re-enacting the march of the Shogunate forces. It is a way to honor the spirits, transforming their tragic end into a celebration of their unwavering loyalty and bushido spirit. The blending of tragic history with modern fandom has kept the memory of these spirits alive, perhaps appeasing them through remembrance.
Traveler’s Tips
If you wish to experience the atmosphere of Goryokaku, here is how to make the most of your visit:
- The Best View: Visit the Goryokaku Tower adjacent to the park. The observation deck offers a bird’s-eye view of the massive star shape. It is the only way to truly appreciate the scale of the fortification.
- Historical Immersion: Visit the Hakodate Magistrate’s Office (Bugyosho), located in the center of the fort. It has been meticulously reconstructed using traditional methods and offers insight into the lives of the officials who worked there.
- Respect the Dead: While it is a fun tourist spot, remember it is also a war memorial. When visiting stone monuments dedicated to the war dead, maintain a respectful volume.
- Seasonal Visits: For the most ethereal experience, visit in Winter (January-February) for the “Hoshi no Yume” (Dream of Stars) illumination, or Spring (Early May) for the cherry blossoms.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the spiritual and historical context of Goryokaku, consider exploring the following:
- Hillsborough, Romulus. Shinsengumi: The Shogun’s Last Samurai Corps. (A definitive English text on the history of Hijikata and his men).
- Japanese Folklore Context: While the events at Goryokaku are modern (19th century), the spiritual beliefs regarding restless spirits trace back to ancient texts like the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, which established the foundational Japanese understanding of the soul, death, and the afterlife.
- Ravina, Mark. The Last Samurai: The Life and Battles of Saigo Takamori. (Provides excellent context on the Boshin War).