Setsubun: The Japanese Art of Throwing Beans at Demons
If you find yourself in Japan during early February, you might witness a peculiar sight: children chasing adults wearing horned masks, throwing handfuls of soybeans at them while shouting at the top of their lungs. This is not a spontaneous food fight, but Setsubun, one of Japan’s most spirited and beloved traditional festivals. Marking the end of winter and the beginning of spring, Setsubun is a time of purification, laughter, and delicious rituals designed to invite good fortune into the home.
Introduction
Setsubun, literally translating to “seasonal division,” is celebrated annually on February 3rd (and occasionally the 2nd or 4th), just one day before the start of spring according to the Japanese lunar calendar. While it is not a national public holiday, it is culturally significant and widely observed across the nation.
The atmosphere during Setsubun is electric, ranging from intimate family gatherings to massive crowds at major temples. The core purpose of the festival is simple yet profound: to purge the bad luck, sickness, and evil spirits of the previous year and welcome the spring with a clean slate. The most iconic phrase you will hear echoes through neighborhoods and temple grounds alike: “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (“Demons out! Good luck in!”).
Origins of the Festival
Historically, the term “Setsubun” referred to the day before the start of any new season—spring, summer, autumn, or winter. However, because the New Year in the old lunar calendar coincided closely with the start of spring (Risshun), the spring Setsubun became the most important, eventually monopolizing the name.
The roots of the festival trace back to the Heian Period (794–1185) and are heavily influenced by Chinese customs. Originally, a court ritual called Tsuina (or Oniyarai) was performed on New Year’s Eve to banish pestilence and demons. Over centuries, this aristocratic ritual merged with local Shinto beliefs and folklore, evolving into the bean-throwing festival (Mamemaki) recognized today among the common people.
The Legend: Why Beans and Why Demons?
The central activity of Setsubun is Mamemaki, the throwing of roasted soybeans (fuku-mame or “fortune beans”). But why beans? In Japanese, the word for bean is mame. This sounds identical to the word for “demon eye” (ma-me) and similar to “destroying demons” (mametsu). Therefore, throwing beans is symbolic of blinding and destroying the evil spirits.
The antagonists of this festival are the Oni—mythical ogres or demons often depicted with red or blue skin, wild hair, and horns. In Japanese folklore, the Oni bring disaster, disease, and misfortune. They are often portrayed wearing tiger-skin loincloths. This imagery is derived from the ancient Chinese zodiac; the “demon gate” (the direction from which evil comes) is the Northeast, which corresponds to the Ox and Tiger signs. Hence, the Oni has the horns of an ox and the wear of a tiger.
Modern Culture and Celebrations
Today, Setsubun is a blend of household fun and public spectacle. In homes with young children, the father usually dons a plastic Oni mask and plays the villain, while the children throw beans at him to drive him out the door. Once the “demon” is expelled, the door is slammed shut to keep evil out.
After the throwing is complete, it is customary for everyone to eat the number of roasted soybeans equivalent to their age, plus one extra bean to ensure good health for the coming year.
The Rise of Ehomaki
Another modern tradition that has exploded in popularity is the eating of Ehomaki (lucky direction roll). This is a thick, uncut sushi roll containing seven ingredients (representing the Seven Lucky Gods). One must eat the entire roll in silence while facing the year’s “lucky direction” determined by the zodiac.
Originally a custom from the Osaka region, Ehomaki was popularized nationally through marketing campaigns by convenience stores like 7-Eleven in the late 1990s. Today, it is a staple of the holiday, with people pre-ordering luxurious rolls filled with premium seafood or wagyu beef.
Traveler’s Tips for Setsubun
For travelers visiting Japan in February, Setsubun offers a unique window into the playful side of Japanese spirituality. Here is how you can participate:
- Visit a Major Temple: While home celebrations are private, temples host massive events. Senso-ji in Tokyo, Zojoji Temple, and Naritasan Shinsho-ji are famous for inviting sumo wrestlers and television celebrities to throw packets of beans and prizes to the crowd. Be prepared for a scrum; catching the beans is considered very lucky.
- Go to Kyoto: In Kyoto, the celebrations are deeply traditional. The Yasaka Shrine and Kitano Tenmangu feature geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha) performing dances and throwing beans, offering a rare photo opportunity.
- Check the Convenience Stores: You don’t need to go to a temple to feel the vibe. Walk into any konbini (convenience store) to see shelves stocked with Oni masks, roasted beans, and Ehomaki rolls.
- Etiquette: If you attend a temple throwing event, it can get chaotic. Protect your belongings, and if you catch a bean packet, share the joy. It is a festival of goodwill, after all.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the deeper mythological context of Japanese purification rituals and the concept of the Oni, historical texts provide fascinating insights. The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and the Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan) are the oldest extant chronicles in Japan, detailing the origins of Shinto kami and the roots of spiritual cleansing (misogi) which influence festivals like Setsubun to this day.
For current event schedules, refer to the official websites of the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) or specific temple websites like Senso-ji and Naritasan during the winter season.