The Divinity of First Sunrise: Understanding Hatsuhinode
In the West, New Year’s Eve is often celebrated with fireworks, champagne, and a countdown to midnight. However, in Japan, the most profound spiritual moment arrives not in the darkness of midnight, but with the first light of dawn. This is the tradition of Hatsuhinode (初日の出), the first sunrise of the year. For the Japanese people, witnessing the sun crest over the horizon on January 1st is not merely an astronomical event; it is a divine encounter that promises renewal, luck, and spiritual clarity for the twelve months to come.
The Spiritual Significance
Japan is known globally as the “Land of the Rising Sun,” a name that carries deep cultural weight. The act of gazing at the first sunrise is believed to bestow good fortune. Unlike a typical morning, the light of January 1st is thought to possess a unique spiritual energy.
Silence usually descends upon the viewing spots—be they mountaintops, beaches, or skyscrapers—as the sky begins to lighten. As the rim of the sun appears, people clasp their hands in prayer, wishing for health, happiness, and prosperity. This moment of quiet reverence stands in stark contrast to the boisterous parties typical of Western New Year celebrations.
Origins of the Tradition
The custom of Hatsuhinode has deep historical roots, evolving from ancient imperial rituals. Originally, this practice was linked to the Shihou-hai (Four Directions Worship), a ceremony performed by the Emperor at the Imperial Court on New Year’s morning to pray for the nation’s harvest and peace.
While the imperial court maintained these solemn rites for centuries, the custom of worshipping the sunrise spread to the common people much later. During the Edo period (1603–1867), the rise of “associations” or ko (religious groups) organized pilgrimages to scenic spots. The most famous of these was the pilgrimage to Mount Fuji. Viewing the sunrise from a high altitude or a beautiful coastline became a popular form of leisure combined with piety, solidifying Hatsuhinode as a cultural staple.
The Legend of Toshigami
Central to the divinity of the first sunrise is the legend of Toshigami-sama (Year God). In Shinto belief, Toshigami is a deity who visits every household at the start of the New Year, bringing with him blessings of good harvest, health, and happiness for the family.
Folklore suggests that Toshigami arrives with the first rays of the sun. Therefore, standing outside to welcome the sunrise is akin to welcoming the deity himself. This belief gave rise to the term Goraiko (御来光), which specifically refers to the sunrise viewed from the summit of a high mountain. The characters translate roughly to “the arrival of light,” implying that the light itself is an avatar of the divine presence. By basking in this light, believers absorb the vitality and power of the Year God.
Modern Culture and Celebrations
Today, Hatsuhinode is practiced by millions across Japan, blending ancient reverence with modern convenience. While some traditionalists hike up mountains in the freezing cold, others opt for observation decks in urban centers.
Popular Viewing Styles
- The Mountaineers: Climbing Mount Fuji or Mount Takao overnight to see the sun rise from the summit is considered the ultimate Hatsuhinode experience.
- The Coastal Watchers: Beaches facing the Pacific Ocean, such as Oarai or Enoshima, are packed with families wrapped in blankets, waiting for the sun to emerge from the sea.
- The Urbanites: Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower often hold special ticketed lotteries for early morning entry, allowing visitors to view the sunrise over the megalopolis.
Interestingly, Japanese airlines now offer “First Sunrise Flights,” where passengers fly near Mount Fuji to guarantee a view of the sunrise above the clouds, ensuring the weather never spoils the divine moment.
Traveler’s Tips for Hatsuhinode
If you are in Japan for New Year’s and wish to participate in this moving tradition, preparation is key.
- Dress for the Arctic: January mornings in Japan are bitterly cold. Wear thermal layers, gloves, and bring heat packs (kairo).
- Check the Time: The sunrise usually occurs around 6:50 AM to 7:00 AM, depending on your location. Arrive at least an hour early to secure a spot.
- Public Transport: Uniquely, trains in major cities like Tokyo often run all night from December 31st to January 1st to accommodate shrine visits (Hatsumode) and sunrise viewers.
- Etiquette: While it is a celebratory moment, keep your voice down as the sun rises. It is a moment of prayer for many locals.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the mythological foundations of sun worship in Japan, the following historical texts provide essential context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Details the mythology of Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun Goddess and ancestral deity of the Imperial family.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Offers further historical accounts of imperial rituals and the significance of solar worship in early Japanese statehood.
- Engishiki: A 10th-century book of laws and regulations that describes the specific rituals performed by the court, including the antecedents to modern New Year traditions.