The Dignity of Ichinomiya: Journey to Japan’s First Shrines
Japan is a land deeply woven with spiritual threads, boasting over 80,000 Shinto shrines. Yet, among this vast constellation of sacred sites, a specific group stands apart with an aura of undeniable authority and historical weight. These are the Ichinomiya (一宮), or “First Shrines.” For culture enthusiasts and spiritual travelers, understanding the dignity of the Ichinomiya offers a profound key to unlocking the history of Japan’s ancient provinces.
Introduction
The term Ichinomiya literally translates to “First Shrine.” Historically, these were the highest-ranking shrines in each of the old provinces of Japan. Visiting an Ichinomiya is not merely about sightseeing; it is an encounter with the spiritual anchor of a region.
There is a distinct atmosphere—a “dignity” (igen)—that pervades these grounds. Unlike smaller neighborhood shrines, Ichinomiya shrines often possess vast grounds, ancient forests (chinju no mori), and architecture that commands respect. They were the primary destinations for court nobles and military commanders, and today, they remain power spots where the pulse of ancient Japan can still be felt.
Origins of the Ichinomiya System
The classification of Ichinomiya traces its roots back to the Heian period (794–1185) and the Ritsuryo legal system. Japan was divided into provinces (such as Owari, Musashi, and Izumo), and the central government dispatched governors, known as Kokushi, to administer these regions.
Upon arriving in their assigned province, the governor’s first spiritual duty was to visit the most powerful deities to pray for peace, harvest, and protection. The shrine visited first was designated the Ichinomiya. This was followed by the Ninomiya (Second Shrine) and Sannomiya (Third Shrine).
Eventually, this custom solidified into a ranking system. These shrines were often listed in the Engishiki, a 10th-century book of laws and regulations, marking them as sites of national importance. The dignity of an Ichinomiya comes from this legacy: for over a millennium, they have been the official spiritual representatives of their lands.
Legend and Mythology
The deities (Kami) enshrined in Ichinomiya are rarely minor figures. They are often the “Ujigami” (guardian deities) of the land or major figures from Japanese mythology.
For example, Izumo Taisha, the Ichinomiya of the old Izumo province, enshrines Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, the creator of the land and the deity of connections. Legends say that all the gods of Japan gather there once a year. Similarly, Omiwa Shrine in Yamato is considered one of the oldest shrines in existence, worshiping the mountain itself as a deity.
These shrines serve as physical bridges to the age of the gods. The folklore surrounding them is often detailed in ancient texts like the Kojiki. Legends tell of these Kami taming floods, bringing agriculture to the people, or subduing chaotic spirits. The dignity one feels at these sites is the weight of these stories—narratives that have shaped the Japanese worldview for centuries.
Modern Culture and Pilgrimage
In modern Japan, the Ichinomiya system has experienced a revival among travelers and the faithful. The Zenkoku Ichinomiya Kai (Association of All Ichinomiya Shrines) lists over 100 shrines across the country.
Enthusiasts often engage in an Ichinomiya Pilgrimage (Ichinomiya Meguri). Collecting the Goshuin—a calligraphy stamp and seal given by the shrine—has become a popular cultural activity. The Goshuin from an Ichinomiya is often considered particularly prestigious.
Furthermore, during Hatsumode (the first shrine visit of the New Year), Ichinomiya shrines attract massive crowds. Locals still believe that the “First Shrine” holds the primary stewardship over their region’s prosperity. It is a testament to their enduring relevance that, despite the modernization of Japan, the Ichinomiya remains the focal point of community identity.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting
To truly appreciate the dignity of an Ichinomiya, keep the following tips in mind:
- Etiquette is Key: These are high-ranking sites. Bow once before passing through the Torii gate. Walk on the side of the path (the center is reserved for the Kami).
- Purification: Always cleanse your hands and mouth at the Temizuya (water pavilion) before approaching the main hall.
- The Goshuin: If you are collecting stamps, present your book (Goshuin-cho) respectfully at the administration office. Do not treat it as a tourist souvenir stamp; it is a religious seal.
- Explore the Precincts: Don’t just look at the main hall. Ichinomiya shrines often have “Sessha” and “Massha” (sub-shrines) that are centuries old. Look for the sacred trees (Shinboku), often wrapped in shimenawa ropes.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology and history of these shrines, the following classical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): The oldest extant chronicle in Japan, detailing the myths of the Kami often enshrined in Ichinomiya.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides historical context on the relationship between the Imperial court and provincial shrines.
- The Engishiki: Specifically the Jinmyocho section, which provides the registry of deities and shrines recognized by the Heian court.
Visiting an Ichinomiya is a step back in time. It is an opportunity to stand in the presence of the guardians of old Japan and feel the quiet, powerful dignity that has preserved the nation’s spirit for millennia.