The Darkness of Ne-no-kuni: Unveiling Japan’s Land of Roots
When travelers think of Japan, images of ethereal cherry blossoms, vermilion torii gates under the sun, and bustling neon cities often come to mind. Yet, beneath the surface of the “Land of the Rising Sun” lies a shadow world deeply embedded in the national psyche and ancient texts. This is Ne-no-kuni, the “Land of Roots,” a realm of darkness, trial, and subterranean mystery.
Unlike the Western concept of Hell, Ne-no-kuni is not merely a place of punishment. It is a complex dimension associated with the dead, the chaotic origins of life, and the tempestuous god Susanoo. For the culture enthusiast and the mythological explorer, understanding the darkness of Ne-no-kuni offers a fascinating glimpse into the duality of Shinto cosmology.
Origins: Defining the Netherworld
In ancient Japanese mythology, the universe is generally divided into three planes: Takamagahara (the High Plain of Heaven), Ashihara-no-Nakatsukuni (the Central Land of Reed Plains, or the human world), and the underworlds below.
Ne-no-kuni (根の国) translates literally to “Root Country” or “Land of Roots.” It is often conflated with Yomi-no-kuni (the Land of the Dead), though scholars debate the distinction. While Yomi is strictly the land of death and pollution (kegare), Ne-no-kuni is more ambiguous. It is described as a distant land, possibly underground or across the sea, where the spirits of ancestors reside and where the source of life regenerates. It is a place of darkness, yes, but also of profound power and potential.
The concept appears prominently in Japan’s oldest historical records, the Kojiki (712 AD) and the Nihon Shoki (720 AD). In these texts, the “darkness” of Ne-no-kuni represents the unknown, the subconscious, and the raw forces of nature that exist outside the orderly rule of the heavy gods.
The Legend: Susanoo and the Trials of the Dark
The most famous resident of Ne-no-kuni is Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the storm god. After his banishment from heaven for his unruly behavior, Susanoo eventually took up residence in this netherworld.
The defining legend of Ne-no-kuni involves the hero Okuninushi. Seeking to escape the wrath of his jealous brothers, Okuninushi descends into Ne-no-kuni to seek Susanoo’s counsel. There, he falls in love with Susanoo’s daughter, Suseri-hime. However, the storm god is not easily impressed.
Susanoo subjects Okuninushi to a series of terrifying trials within the darkness of the root land:
- The Snake Pit: Okuninushi is made to sleep in a room filled with vipers.
- The Chamber of Centipedes and Wasps: He must survive a night with stinging insects.
- The Whistling Arrow: Susanoo shoots an arrow into a vast plain and sets the field on fire, forcing Okuninushi to retrieve it.
Through the help of a mouse and Suseri-hime’s magic, Okuninushi survives. He eventually flees Ne-no-kuni, stealing Susanoo’s sword, bow, and zither. Susanoo chases him to the entrance, the Yomotsu Hirasaka, but ultimately grants his blessing, acknowledging Okuninushi as the ruler of the human world. This story highlights that the darkness of Ne-no-kuni is a crucible—a place where heroes go to die metaphorically and be reborn stronger.
Modern Culture and Interpretations
In modern Japanese culture, the concept of a “World of Roots” permeates storytelling. You can see echoes of Ne-no-kuni in anime and video games where characters must traverse shadow worlds or “reverse sides” of reality to gain power (such as in the Persona series or Naruto).
Culturally, the “darkness” retains a spiritual weight. It reinforces the Shinto emphasis on purification. Because Ne-no-kuni is associated with impurities, rituals (Harae) are performed in the human world to cleanse the pollution brought from contact with death or sickness, maintaining the balance between the bright world of the living and the dark roots of the dead.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Entrance to the Underworld
While you cannot visit the mythological realm itself, you can visit the locations legendary for being the “borderlands” between worlds. The most famous sites are located in Shimane Prefecture, the heartland of ancient myths.
1. Yomotsu Hirasaka (Slope to Yomi)
Located in Higashi-Izumo, this is the legendary slope said to connect the living world with the underworld. It is a quiet, atmospheric spot marked by large boulders and a simple shrine. Visitors often leave pine cones here. It feels distinctively eerie, especially at twilight.
2. Iya Shrine (Iya-jinja)
Also in Shimane, this shrine is dedicated to Izanami, the mother goddess who rules the land of the dead. It is believed to be another entrance to the netherworld. The atmosphere here is solemn and heavy with history.
Travel Etiquette
- Respect the Atmosphere: These are not typical bright tourist spots; they are places associated with death and spirits. Maintain a respectful silence.
- Purification: Always use the chozuya (water pavilion) to wash your hands and mouth before approaching the main shrines.
- Timing: To truly feel the “mythical” vibe, visit on a misty morning or late afternoon.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the classical texts that describe the Darkness of Ne-no-kuni, the following are essential:
- The Kojiki: Records of Ancient Matters (Translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain or Donald L. Philippi).
- The Nihon Shoki: The Chronicles of Japan (Translated by W.G. Aston).
- Shinto: The Kami Way by Sokyo Ono (For understanding the theology of pollution and purity).