Ashihara no Nakatsukuni: The Divine Protection of Japan’s Reed Plains
When travelers gaze upon the misty rice paddies of rural Japan or stand beneath the vermilion torii gates of an ancient shrine, they are looking at a landscape steeped in mythology. In the earliest chronicles of Japanese history, this land was not simply a country but a divine realm known as Ashihara no Nakatsukuni (The Central Land of Reed Plains). The concept of its “protection” or governance is the bedrock of Shinto spirituality and the origin story of the Imperial line.
For the culture-seeking traveler, understanding this ancient cosmology transforms a visit to Japan from a sightseeing tour into a pilgrimage through time. Here is the story of the land between heaven and the underworld, and the deities who swore to protect it.
Origins: The Cosmology of Shinto
To understand the protection of Ashihara no Nakatsukuni, one must first understand the Shinto view of the universe. Ancient texts describe a tripartite world:
- Takamagahara (The Plain of High Heaven): The domain of the heavenly Kami (gods), ruled by the sun goddess Amaterasu.
- Yomi-no-Kuni (The Land of the Dead): The shadowy underworld.
- Ashihara no Nakatsukuni: The physical world where humans live—Japan itself—situated between heaven and hell.
The name translates poetically. “Ashihara” refers to reeds, symbolizing the lush, fertile chaos of the primordial land. “Nakatsukuni” means the middle country. In the beginning, this world was wild, filled with unruly earthly deities and spirits, requiring strong guardianship to bring about order.
The Legend: Kuni-yuzuri (The Transfer of the Land)
The most significant myth regarding the protection of this realm is the Kuni-yuzuri, or the “Transfer of the Land.” According to the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters), the earthly realm was originally ruled by Okuninushi, a powerful deity based in Izumo. He worked tirelessly to shape the mountains, farm the land, and develop medicine, effectively becoming the first great protector and builder of the nation.
However, the heavenly gods in Takamagahara believed that the land should be governed by the descendants of Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, to ensure eternal peace and order. Amaterasu sent several envoys to negotiate with Okuninushi, but they were either seduced by the beauty of the land or failed in their mission.
Finally, the warrior god Takemikazuchi was sent. He descended to the beach of Inasa in Izumo and plunged his sword hilt-deep into the waves, sitting cross-legged upon its point to demonstrate his power. He demanded that Okuninushi abdicate.
The Great Compromise
Recognizing the divine mandate, Okuninushi agreed to cede control of the visible world (politics and governance) to the heavenly descendants. In exchange, he insisted on remaining the ruler of the invisible world—the realm of spirits, destiny, and human relationships (en-musubi). A massive palace was built for him, reaching towards the clouds. This act ensured the “protection” of the land would be twofold: the Emperor would guard the physical nation, while Okuninushi would guard the spiritual well-being of its people.
Modern Culture: The Invisible Protection
The legacy of Ashihara no Nakatsukuni is not just dust in a history book; it is alive in modern Japanese culture. The distinction between the “visible” and “invisible” worlds still dictates religious practice.
- En-musubi: Young Japanese people flock to shrines dedicated to Okuninushi to pray for good relationships and marriage. They are seeking his protection in the invisible realm of destiny.
- Pop Culture: The term “Ashihara no Nakatsukuni” frequently appears in anime and manga (such as Noragami), representing the battleground where spirits and humans coexist.
- Imperial Rites: The current Imperial family is still traced back to Ninigi-no-Mikoto, the grandson of Amaterasu who descended to rule the land after Okuninushi stepped aside.
Traveler’s Tips: Walking the Mythical Path
If you wish to trace the history of the Central Land of Reed Plains, you must visit the sites where these legends allegedly took place.
1. Izumo Taisha (Shimane Prefecture)
This is the most critical site for this legend. It is the grand shrine dedicated to Okuninushi. Every October (known as Kamiarizuki in Izumo), it is believed that all the gods of Japan gather here to discuss the destiny of humanity for the coming year.
- Tip: Unlike other shrines where you clap twice, at Izumo Taisha, the custom is to clap four times: twice for yourself and twice for your partner (or future partner).
2. Takachiho (Miyazaki Prefecture)
To see the other side of the story, visit Takachiho Gorge. This is said to be the spot where Ninigi-no-Mikoto descended from the heavens to take over the rulership of Ashihara no Nakatsukuni.
- Tip: Watch a Kagura performance at Takachiho Shrine. These traditional masked dances reenact these very myths.
3. Kashima Jingu (Ibaraki Prefecture)
This shrine is dedicated to Takemikazuchi, the warrior god who negotiated the transfer of the land. It is a place of martial strength and resolve.
Sources & Further Reading
To delve deeper into the protection of the Reed Plains, the following classical texts are essential reading:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest chronicle (712 AD), detailing the creation myths.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, offering a slightly more political variation of the myths.
- Izumo no Kuni Fudoki: An ancient record of the culture and geography of the Izumo province, providing a unique earthly perspective on the myths.