Fuji-ko: The Spiritual Journey of Japan’s Holy Mountain
To the modern traveler, Mount Fuji is Japan’s most iconic postcard view—a perfect volcanic cone capped with snow, visible from the skyscrapers of Tokyo on a clear day. However, for centuries, this dormant volcano was not merely a scenic destination but a formidable deity. It was the center of a fervent religious movement known as Fuji-ko (富士講).
This association of worshippers, originating in the Edo period, transformed the act of climbing a mountain into a profound spiritual pilgrimage of death and rebirth. Today, understanding Fuji-ko offers a window into the deep cultural soul of Japan, revealing a history where geography and divinity are inextricably linked.
The Origins of the Fuji Faith
Mountain worship, or Sangaku Shinko, has existed in Japan since ancient times, but Fuji-ko solidified as a specific religious association during the turbulent periods of the late 16th and early 17th centuries. The movement traces its spiritual lineage to Hasegawa Kakugyo (1541–1646), an ascetic who is said to have climbed Mount Fuji 128 times.
However, it was in the mid-Edo period (18th century) that Fuji-ko exploded in popularity among the common people. At the time, travel was heavily restricted by the Shogunate. To bypass costs and restrictions, communities formed “ko” (associations or guilds). Members would pool their money, and each year, a few selected representatives would make the pilgrimage to Mount Fuji to pray on behalf of the entire group.
The movement became so massive that a popular saying emerged: “Edo wa Fuji-ko de motsu” (Edo [Tokyo] holds up because of the Fuji-ko), implying that the city’s prosperity was sustained by these pious groups.
Legend and Belief: Rebirth on the Mountain
At the heart of the Fuji-ko belief system is the deity Konohanasakuya-hime, the princess of the cherry blossoms, who is the Shinto goddess of Mount Fuji. According to legend, she embodies the delicate earthly life and the fiery power of the volcano.
For the Fuji-ko pilgrims, climbing the mountain was not a sport; it was a ritual simulation of death and rebirth.
- The Ascent: As pilgrims climbed the steep, volcanic slopes, they were considered to be leaving the world of the living. They wore white robes (gyoi), which historically served as burial shrouds, signifying their readiness to die to their old selves.
- The Summit: Reaching the crater was akin to entering the “Pure Land” or the realm of the gods.
- The Descent: Coming down the mountain symbolized being born anew, cleansed of bad karma and spiritually recharged.
This cycle ensured not just personal salvation but the safety and agricultural fertility of the pilgrim’s home community.
Modern Culture: Fujizuka and Vestiges
While the massive waves of white-clad pilgrims have diminished compared to the Edo period, the legacy of Fuji-ko remains visible in modern Japanese culture, particularly in Tokyo.
Because not everyone could make the arduous journey to the real mountain—especially the elderly, women (who were historically banned from the summit until 1868), and the sick—the Fuji-ko groups built Fujizuka (富士塚). These are miniature replicas of Mount Fuji, constructed from volcanic rocks carried all the way from the mountain itself.
Found in the precincts of various shrines across Tokyo, these mounds range from a few meters to over ten meters high. Climbing a Fujizuka was, and still is, believed to bestow the same spiritual benefits as climbing the actual mountain. Today, these mounds are protected cultural properties, standing as silent testaments to the fervor of the Edo commoners.
Traveler’s Tips: Walking the Sacred Path
If you wish to experience the spiritual side of Mount Fuji rather than just the tourist trails, consider the following tips:
- Visit the Oshi Houses: In the city of Fujiyoshida at the base of the mountain, you can visit the Togawa Oshi House. Oshi were prayer masters who provided lodging and guidance to Fuji-ko pilgrims. This museum offers a rare glimpse into the intimate history of the pilgrims.
- Climb from the Base: Most modern hikers start at the 5th Station (halfway up). To emulate the Fuji-ko, start from the Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine at the base. The trail from here is lined with historical monuments and ancient cedar trees, offering a solemn atmosphere far removed from the crowds above.
- Spot the Fujizuka: When in Tokyo, search for Fujizuka. Famous ones are located at Sendagaya’s Hatonomori Hachiman Shrine and Shinagawa Shrine. They are often climbed during specific festivals in early July (monsoon season).
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the mythological foundations of the deities worshipped by the Fuji-ko, the classical Japanese texts provide essential context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters, 712 AD): Contains the mythology of Konohanasakuya-hime.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan, 720 AD): Offers alternative accounts of the Japanese creation myths and the lineage of the gods.
- Faith in Mount Fuji: The Rise of the Fuji Cult by specialized Japanese history journals.