The Tsuina Ceremony: Chasing Away Demons in Ancient Japan
In the stillness of a winter evening in Kyoto, the air is suddenly pierced by the guttural roars of demons and the rhythmic chanting of priests. Torches flicker against the dark wood of ancient shrines, illuminating grotesque masks and golden spears. This is not a scene from a horror movie, but the Tsuina (追儺) ceremony—a dramatic and vibrant exorcism ritual that has been performed in Japan for over a millennium to cleanse the world of evil before the arrival of spring.
While many travelers are familiar with the joyous bean-throwing festival known as Setsubun, fewer understand its solemn and theatrical predecessor, the Tsuina. This guide explores the depths of this fascinating cultural event, tracing its roots from imperial courts to modern shrine grounds.
Origins: A Rite from the Tang Dynasty
The Tsuina ceremony, also known as Oniyarai (Demon Chasing), did not originate in Japan. It was imported from Tang Dynasty China during the late 7th or early 8th century. Originally, it was a court ritual performed on the last day of the lunar year (Ovemisoka) to banish pestilence and negative energy before the New Year began.
Historical records indicate that the ritual was first performed at the Japanese Imperial Court in 706 AD, during the reign of Emperor Mommu, in response to a plague that was ravaging the population. Over the centuries, the ceremony evolved. What began as a solemn bureaucratic rite to drive away invisible plagues transformed into a dramatic performance involving actors dressed as demons (Oni) and exorcists, bridging the gap between state religion and folk entertainment.
The Legend of the Golden-Eyed Exorcist
Central to the Tsuina ceremony is the figure of the Hosshi (pronounced Houshi), the exorcist. In the traditional Heian-period reenactments still seen today, the Hosshi is a striking figure. He wears a mask with four golden eyes, symbolizing his ability to see evil in all directions, and carries a spear and a shield.
According to legend and court protocols described in ancient texts, the Hosshi leads a procession of government officials and children. They shout invocations to drive away the demons representing disaster and illness. The visual of the four-eyed mask is distinct and terrifying, designed to be more frightening than the demons themselves, thereby scaring them back into the shadows.
The demons, usually represented as Red Oni (passion and greed) and Blue Oni (hatred and anger), rampage through the shrine grounds until they are subdued by the spiritual power of the priests and the physical might of the Hosshi.
From Court Ritual to Modern Culture
By the Muromachi period, the Tsuina ceremony began to merge with other folk traditions, eventually evolving into the modern Setsubun festival celebrated on February 3rd. While Setsubun is now a household event characterized by shouting “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (Demons out! Luck in!) and throwing roasted soybeans, the authentic Tsuina retains its archaic, theatrical flavor.
Today, the ceremony is less about the lunar New Year and more about the changing of the seasons (Setsubun literally means “seasonal division”). It serves as a spiritual cleansing to ensure health and safety for the coming year. The drama of the Tsuina serves as a living museum, preserving costumes, masks, and chants that have remained largely unchanged since the Heian period.
Traveler’s Tips: Witnessing the Tsuina
If you are planning a trip to Japan in early February, witnessing a Tsuina ceremony is a cultural highlight. However, it requires some planning.
Best Locations
- Yoshida Shrine (Kyoto): Perhaps the most famous and authentic reenactment of the Heian-period court ritual. The fire festival here is atmospheric and crowded.
- Rozan-ji Temple (Kyoto): Known for the “Oni Odori” (Demon Dance), which is a specific variation of the Tsuina.
- Kofuku-ji Temple (Nara): Offers a very traditional Tsuina ceremony followed by bean throwing.
Practical Advice
- Arrive Early: These events are incredibly popular with locals and photographers. To get a good view of the demons, arrive at least an hour before the scheduled start.
- Dress Warmly: February in Kyoto and Nara is freezing. You will be standing outside for hours, so wear thermal layers.
- Catch the Beans: After the demons are chased away, priests and dignitaries often throw packets of roasted soybeans (and sometimes prizes) into the crowd. It brings good luck to catch them!
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japanese mythology and rituals, the following texts provide essential background:
- Shoku Nihongi (Chronicles of Japan Continued): Contains the first recorded mention of the Tsuina ceremony in 706 AD.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While it predates the specific Tsuina ritual, it establishes the foundation of Japanese demonology and purification rites.
- Engishiki: A 10th-century book of laws and regulations that details the exact procedures for the court Tsuina ritual.
The Tsuina ceremony is a powerful reminder of how ancient societies coped with the fear of the unknown—illness and disaster—through art, ritual, and community spirit. It remains one of Japan’s most captivating winter spectacles.