The Mystical World of the Itako: Japan’s Blind Spirit Mediums
In the desolate, volcanic landscapes of the Shimokita Peninsula in Aomori Prefecture, the air hangs heavy with the scent of sulfur. Here lies Mount Osore (Osorezan), considered one of the three holiest places in Japan and a literal gateway to the underworld. Amidst the gray rocks and statues of Jizo, a haunting tradition survives: the Itako, blind female shamans capable of summoning the souls of the dead.
For travelers seeking to understand the spiritual depth of the Tohoku region, the Itako represent a bridge between the living and the ancestors, a cultural phenomenon deeply rooted in suffering, asceticism, and solace.
Origins of the Blind Shamans
The tradition of the Itako dates back centuries, emerging from the harsh realities of life in northern Japan. Historically, in the Tohoku region, blindness was a common affliction due to malnutrition and measles. In a feudal society where physical labor was the primary means of survival, blind girls were considered a burden to their families.
To ensure these girls could earn a livelihood, families would apprentice them to established Itako. This was not a choice of mysticism, but one of survival. The training was grueling, often beginning before puberty. Apprentices underwent severe ascetic practices, including cold-water ablutions in freezing winter temperatures and memorizing thousands of lines of sutras and prayers.
The initiation rite, known as Kamitsuke, involved the apprentice entering a trance state to be “wedded” to a patron deity. Only after this spiritual marriage could she operate independently as a medium. While originally distinct from organized religion, the practice eventually syncretized with the folk Buddhism prevalent at Mount Osore.
Legend and Ritual: The Kuchiyose
The primary function of an Itako is the Kuchiyose, a ritual of channeling the dead. According to local belief, Mount Osore is the location of the Sanzu River, the Buddhist equivalent of the River Styx, which souls must cross to reach the afterlife. The Itako act as the intermediaries at this liminal boundary.
During a session, the Itako does not merely speak to the spirit; she becomes the vessel. She creates a rhythm by rubbing a long rosary of beads (irataka no juzu) and striking a bow. She chants in a unique, trilling cadence, calling upon the spirits to descend. The language used is often an archaic form of the local dialect, making it difficult even for modern Japanese speakers to fully comprehend without interpretation.
While the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and Nihon Shoki do not mention Itako specifically, they establish the foundation of Japanese shamanism. These ancient texts describe Miko (shrine maidens) like Ame-no-Uzume, who used trance and dance to communicate with the divine. The Itako are a folk evolution of this ancient shamanistic lineage, adapted to the specific hardships and Buddhist overlays of the north.
Modern Culture and Preservation
Today, the culture of the Itako is on the brink of extinction. Advances in modern medicine have virtually eliminated the causes of childhood blindness that necessitated the profession, and the grueling apprenticeship appeals to very few in the modern era. Currently, there is only a handful of traditionally trained Itako remaining, most of whom are elderly.
Despite their dwindling numbers, they remain a potent symbol of Aomori culture. They are most visible during the Itako Taisai, the Great Festival held at Bodai-ji Temple on Mount Osore twice a year (usually July and October). During these times, long lines of mourners—some having traveled from across the globe—wait for hours for a chance to speak with lost loved ones one last time.
In pop culture, the concept of the Itako appears frequently in anime and manga (such as Shaman King), though these depictions often sensationalize the practice into magical combat. The reality is far more somber and intimate, focused on grief counseling and closure rather than exorcism or battle.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Mount Osore
Visiting an Itako is a profound cultural experience, but it requires planning and respect.
- Timing is Key: The Itako are not at Mount Osore year-round. They primarily gather during the Osorezan Taisai (July 20-24) and the Autumn Festival (early October). Outside these dates, they live private lives in their local communities.
- Language Barrier: The ritual is conducted in the Tsugaru-ben or Shimokita-ben dialects. If you do not speak Japanese fluently, it is highly recommended to bring a guide or interpreter. Without one, you will miss the nuance of the messages being conveyed.
- Etiquette: Photography and video recording of the ritual are strictly forbidden. This is a private moment of grief for the sitters. Always ask for permission before photographing the Itako even when they are not in a trance.
- Payment: The fee for a reading (usually called okuryo) is typically set at a flat rate (often around 3,000 to 5,000 yen), paid in cash. It is polite to present the money in an envelope.
- Getting There: From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen to Hachinohe, transfer to the Ominato Line to Shimokita Station, and then take a bus to Osorezan. The journey creates a sense of pilgrimage, moving from the modern city into the quiet mountains.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical roots of Japanese shamanism and the spiritual landscape of Tohoku, the following texts and concepts are recommended:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For background on the origins of Japanese Kami and early shamanistic practices (Miko).
- Catalpa Bow: A study of shamanistic practices in Japan by Carmen Blacker, which offers an in-depth look at the Itako.
- Tohoku Folklore Studies: Various works by Kunio Yanagita explore the rich oral traditions of rural Japan.
The Itako serve as a poignant reminder of the human need to connect with the past. In the misty calderas of Aomori, the voice of the blind medium continues to offer comfort to the living, proving that love and memory can transcend the boundaries of death.