Hitachi Fudoki: Journey to Japan’s Ancient Land of Eternal Life
When travelers think of ancient Japanese history, their minds often wander to Kyoto’s temples or Nara’s Great Buddha. However, hidden within the archives of the 8th century lies a text that describes a region north of Tokyo not just as a province, but as a literal utopia on earth. This region was Hitachi Province, known today as Ibaraki Prefecture, and the text is the Hitachi no Fudoki.
For culture enthusiasts and history buffs, the Hitachi Fudoki offers a rare glimpse into the animistic soul of ancient Japan, distinct from the imperial narratives found in other historical records. It paints a picture of a land blessed by the gods, rich in resources, and teeming with legends that still echo in the Japanese countryside today.
The Origins of the Fudoki
In the year 713 CE, Empress Genmei issued an imperial decree requiring all provinces to compile reports on their geography, products, soil fertility, and oral traditions. These reports were known as Fudoki (Records of Wind and Earth).
While over sixty provinces likely submitted these gazetteers, only five remain in existence today. Of these, the Hitachi no Fudoki is particularly special. Unlike the others, which are often dry lists of crops and topography, the Hitachi text is written in an elegant, literary Chinese style. It was likely compiled by local officials who wanted to impress the central Yamato court, portraying their eastern frontier not as a barbarian backwater, but as a “Tokoyo”—a Land of Eternal Life.
Legends of Giants and Gods
The Hitachi Fudoki is a treasure trove of folklore that predates modern Shinto organization. It captures the raw interaction between humans and nature.
The Land of Eternal Life
The text famously opens with a description of the region as a paradise where “the mountains and rivers are lush and beautiful,” and where the wealth of the land and sea is inexhaustible. It claims that if there is a utopia in this world, it is surely Hitachi.
Mt. Fuji vs. Mt. Tsukuba
One of the most enduring legends involves a deity (often associated with the ancestor god Mioya-no-kami) wandering the land seeking a place to stay for the night. The deity first visited Mt. Fuji. The spirit of Mt. Fuji refused, claiming it was too busy preparing for the harvest festival. Angered, the deity cursed Fuji to be forever covered in cold snow and isolated.
The deity then visited Mt. Tsukuba. The spirit of Tsukuba welcomed the guest with food and shelter, despite the busy festival season. In return, the deity blessed Mt. Tsukuba to be a place where people would gather to sing, dance, and find abundance. This explains why Mt. Fuji is solitary and cold, while Mt. Tsukuba is lush and historically a site for social gatherings (and ancient courtship rituals known as kagai).
Yato-no-Kami: The Horned Snake Gods
The text also tells the story of Yato-no-kami, snake deities with horns that infested the fields. A local hero named Matachi famously confronted them, drawing a boundary line and striking a deal: the snakes could rule the mountains, but the fields belonged to humans for farming. This story highlights the ancient struggle to domesticate the wild landscape of eastern Japan.
Modern Culture and Legacy
Today, the legacy of the Hitachi Fudoki is woven into the fabric of Ibaraki Prefecture. While Ibaraki sometimes suffers from a reputation as a sleepy agricultural prefecture in modern rankings, the Fudoki reminds us of its spiritual significance.
Mt. Tsukuba remains a popular hiking destination and spiritual power spot, heavily associated with the legends of the male and female peaks (Nantai and Nyotai). The poem and songs recorded in the Fudoki are considered early precursors to the Man’yoshu poetry anthology, influencing Japanese literature for centuries.
Furthermore, the “Land of Eternal Life” narrative is seeing a revival in local tourism, promoting the region’s longevity, abundant produce (like melons and natto), and rich nature as a modern-day wellness retreat.
Traveler’s Tips: Walking the Fudoki
If you want to experience the world of the Hitachi Fudoki, here is how to plan your trip:
- Hike Mt. Tsukuba: Located about 45 minutes from Akihabara via the Tsukuba Express, this double-peaked mountain offers accessible hikes and stunning views of the Kanto Plain. Visit the Tsukubasan Shrine at the base, which honors the deities mentioned in the ancient texts.
- Visit Kashima Jingu: One of the oldest shrines in eastern Japan, dedicated to the martial deity Takemikazuchi. The shrine is surrounded by an ancient forest that feels pulled straight from the pages of the Fudoki.
- Explore Lake Kasumigaura: Legends suggest the giant Daidarabotchi helped shape this landscape. It is excellent for cycling and viewing traditional hobikisen (sailing fishing boats).
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of ancient Japanese mythology and geography, consider exploring these foundational texts:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest chronicle dealing with the age of the gods.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): The official imperial history compiled shortly after the Fudoki.
- The Man’yoshu: The oldest existing collection of Japanese poetry, which contains verses related to Mt. Tsukuba and the customs of the eastern provinces.