Exploring the Kijo Legend: Japan’s Tales of the Demon Woman
Japanese folklore is a tapestry woven with threads of the ethereal, the heroic, and the terrifying. Among the pantheon of yokai (spirits) and oni (demons), few figures capture the imagination quite like the Kijo (鬼女). Literally translating to “demon woman,” the Kijo is not merely a monster; she is often a tragic figure, a human woman transformed by jealousy, karma, or cursed fate.
For travelers venturing into the misty mountains of Nagano Prefecture, the legend of the Kijo—specifically the tale of the Maple Witch, Momiji—transforms the landscape from scenic nature into a living storybook of ancient battles and sorcery.
The Origins of the Kijo Archetype
Unlike the brutish, ogre-like male oni depicted in children’s stories, the Kijo represents a more psychological horror. In classical Japanese literature and Buddhism, the transformation from human to Kijo is usually the physical manifestation of an internal corruption.
While male demons are often born as monsters, female demons in folklore are frequently created. Intense emotions—specifically rage, sorrow, or jealousy—are believed to hold enough spiritual power to warp a woman’s physical form. This concept is famously immortalized in the Hannya mask used in Noh theater, representing a jealous female demon.
However, the most enduring legend focuses on a specific Kijo who ruled the mountains of Togakushi: Lady Momiji.
The Legend of Momiji (The Maple Witch)
The story of Momiji is set in the Heian period (794–1185), an era of courtly elegance and deep superstition.
The Exile
According to the legend, a woman named Kureha (later Momiji) was a lady-in-waiting in Kyoto. She was exceptionally beautiful and talented, gaining the favor of a high-ranking lord. However, she was accused of using witchcraft to curse the lord’s wife out of jealousy. As punishment, she was banished from the capital to the remote, rugged wilderness of Togakushi (in present-day Nagano).
The Transformation
Exiled and bitter, Momiji did not wither away. Instead, she rose to power. She gathered a band of rogue warriors and bandits, establishing a stronghold in the mountains. Legend says she used dark magic to transform herself into a Kijo, capable of breathing fire and commanding storms. She terrorized the surrounding villages, descending from her mountain lair to pillage and destroy.
The Subjugation
Word of the “Demon Woman of Togakushi” reached the Imperial Court in Kyoto. The Emperor dispatched a brave warrior, Taira no Koremochi, to defeat her. Koremochi found the task impossible at first, as Momiji’s sorcery was too strong.
He visited the Hachiman Shrine to pray for divine assistance. In a dream, the deity presented him with a holy sword, the Kogarasumaru. Armed with this divine weapon, Koremochi confronted Momiji during a chaotic autumn banquet under the red maple leaves. Despite her terrifying demon form, Koremochi struck her down, ending her reign of terror and restoring peace to the region.
Kijo in Modern Culture
The Kijo legend has permeated Japanese culture for centuries. The battle between Koremochi and Momiji is the subject of the famous Noh play Momijigari (Viewing the Autumn Foliage). In this play, the tension between the beauty of the setting (the maple leaves) and the hidden danger of the demon creates a haunting aesthetic that defines the genre.
This story later transitioned into Kabuki theater, becoming a staple of the repertoire. In modern times, the archetype of the Kijo influences anime and manga characters, often depicted as powerful women with tragic backstories who unlock demonic power through emotional trauma. The duality of the Kijo—beautiful woman and terrifying monster—remains a favorite trope in Japanese storytelling.
Traveler’s Tips: Walking the Path of the Kijo
For those who wish to step into the legend, the Togakushi area in Nagano City is a must-visit destination. It is a place of immense spiritual power and breathtaking natural beauty.
Where to Go
- Togakushi Shrine: A complex of five shrines at the base of Mount Togakushi. The approach is lined with massive cedar trees over 400 years old, creating an atmosphere that feels truly ancient.
- Momiji’s Rock Cave (Momiji Iwaya): Located in the nearby Kinasa district, you can visit the cave said to be the stronghold where Momiji lived. It is a somber, atmospheric spot that connects you directly to the folklore.
- Ara-kura Camp: This area is associated with the legend where Koremochi set up camp before the battle.
Best Time to Visit
As the name Momiji implies, the best time to visit is Autumn (October to early November). The mountains ignite with fiery reds and oranges, mimicking the backdrop of the legendary battle.
Culinary Culture
While there, do not miss Togakushi Soba. It is considered some of the best buckwheat noodles in Japan. Local lore jokingly suggests that the stamina required to traverse these demon-haunted mountains is what perfected the local noodle craft.
Sources & Further Reading
- Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past): A collection of Heian-period stories that details various yokai and supernatural occurrences.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While focusing on history, this text establishes the early concepts of Oni and spiritual banishment.
- Momijigari (Noh Play): Translations of this play provide the most direct narrative of the Taira no Koremochi and Momiji confrontation.
- The Legends of Tono (Tono Monogatari): By Kunio Yanagita, for a broader look at Japanese mountain folk legends.