The Dojoji Bell: Exploring Japan’s Tragic Love Legend
Deep in the heart of Wakayama Prefecture stands Dojoji, a temple that radiates a serene, ancient spiritualism. Yet, beneath its peaceful eaves lies one of Japan’s most passionate, terrifying, and enduring folktales. The story of the Dojoji Bell (Dojoji no Kane) is not merely a ghost story; it is a cultural touchstone involving unrequited love, betrayal, and a transformation fueled by rage. For travelers seeking the darker, more romantic side of Japanese folklore, the legend of Anchin and Kiyohime is an essential chapter.
Origins of the Temple and Tale
Dojoji Temple is the oldest temple in Wakayama, established in 701 AD. While the architecture is stunning, the temple is synonymous with the legend associated with its great bronze bell. The story is not found in Japan’s creation myths like the Kojiki, but rather took root during the Heian period, appearing in collections like the Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past).
The tale serves as a cautionary Buddhist morality play, originally intended to warn monks against the temptations of lust and the dangers of breaking vows. However, over centuries, it evolved into a sympathetic, albeit frightening, portrayal of human emotion gone wrong.
The Legend of Anchin and Kiyohime
The narrative centers on two protagonists: Anchin, a handsome young monk on a pilgrimage to the Kumano Shrines, and Kiyohime, the daughter of a wealthy innkeeper (or village headman) where Anchin lodged.
According to the lore, Kiyohime fell deeply in love with the monk. Depending on the version of the story, Anchin either jokingly promised to marry her upon his return or was simply kind enough to be deeply misunderstood. When Anchin traveled back, he bypassed the inn, fearing the attachment he had fostered. Realizing his betrayal, Kiyohime pursued him.
The chase was desperate. When Anchin crossed the Hidaka River by boat to escape, Kiyohime jumped into the water. Her sorrow morphed into blinding rage, transforming her into a massive fire-breathing serpent or dragon.
Terrified, Anchin fled to Dojoji Temple. The monks, seeing the beast approaching, lowered the massive temple bell over Anchin to hide and protect him. However, the serpent Kiyohime smelled him inside. She coiled her massive body around the bronze bell and beat against it with her tail. Fueled by the heat of her fury, she breathed fire onto the metal until it became white-hot, roasting the monk alive inside. With her vengeance complete, the serpent threw herself into the river and drowned.
Modern Culture: From Noh to Kabuki
The Dojoji legend is immortalized in Japanese performing arts. It is the subject of Musume Dojoji (The Maiden at Dojoji Temple), one of the most famous and technically demanding plays in the Kabuki and Bunraku repertoire, as well as the Noh play Dojoji.
In these performances, the story usually takes place years after the tragedy. A beautiful dancer (a shirabyoshi) arrives at the temple to dedicate a new bell. However, as she dances, her movements become erratic and intense, revealing that she is the vengeful spirit of Kiyohime returned to destroy the bell once more. The visual of the dancer disappearing into the falling prop bell is one of the most iconic images in traditional Japanese theater.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Dojoji
For cultural enthusiasts, a visit to Dojoji in Gobo City offers a tangible connection to this myth.
- The E-toki Preaching: One of the unique experiences at Dojoji is the E-toki (picture explaining). The resident monks use illustrated hand-scrolls to narrate the story of Anchin and Kiyohime to visitors. Even if you do not speak fluent Japanese, the dramatic delivery and vivid imagery transcend the language barrier.
- Local Delicacies: Be sure to try Tsurigane Manju, a bell-shaped sweet bean cake sold near the temple, which commemorates the legend without the tragic ending.
- Best Time to Visit: The temple is famous for its cherry blossoms in spring, creating a stark contrast between the gentle pink petals and the violent history of the bell.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the depth of Japanese mythology, one usually looks to the Kojiki or Nihon Shoki. However, for the specific roots of the Dojoji legend, the Konjaku Monogatarishu (Tales of Times Now Past) provides the Heian-era foundation of the story. Additionally, the Honcho Hokke Reigenki offers early Buddhist recounting of similar miraculous and cautionary tales.
Whether viewed as a story of demonized female rage or a tragedy of broken promises, the Dojoji Bell remains a powerful symbol of how passion, left unchecked, can burn everything in its path.