Unveiling the Legend of Tawara Toda: The Samurai Who Slew a Monster
Japan is a land where history and mythology often bleed into one another, creating a tapestry of folklore that captivates travelers and historians alike. Among the pantheon of samurai heroes, few stories are as visually striking or widely celebrated as that of Tawara Toda (俵藤太). Known historically as Fujiwara no Hidesato, this Heian-period warrior is immortalized not just for his martial prowess, but for a fantastical encounter with a giant centipede.
For cultural travelers exploring the Kansai region, understanding the legend of Tawara Toda adds a layer of mystical depth to the scenic landscapes of Lake Biwa. Here is the story of the archer, the dragon, and the monster that made him a legend.
The Origins of the Name
Before diving into the myth, it is essential to ground the hero in history. Fujiwara no Hidesato was a 10th-century kuge (court noble) and military commander. He is historically significant for his role in suppressing the rebellion of Taira no Masakado in 940 AD, a feat that solidified the samurai class’s rising power.
However, in folklore, he is almost exclusively referred to as Tawara Toda. The name “Tawara” refers to a straw rice bag. Theories abound regarding this nickname. Some claim it was because he was as strong as a man carrying a heavy rice bale; others suggest it relates to the legendary inexhaustible bag of rice he received as a reward from the Dragon King. Regardless of the etymology, the name is now synonymous with bravery and monster-slaying.
The Legend of the Centipede
The most famous tale of Tawara Toda is set on the Seta no Karahashi Bridge in present-day Shiga Prefecture.
The Encounter at Seta Bridge
According to the Konjaku Monogatarishu (Anthology of Tales from the Past), Hidesato was crossing the bridge one day when he found a massive serpent blocking his path. While other travelers fled in terror, Hidesato calmly stepped over the beast without breaking his stride.
Moments later, the serpent transformed into a small man—the Dragon King of Lake Biwa. Impressed by the samurai’s lack of fear, the Dragon King begged Hidesato for help. He explained that a giant centipede (Omukade) living on Mount Mikami came down every night to eat his family.
The Battle on Mount Mikami
Hidesato agreed to help and waited on the bridge with his bow. As night fell, two glowing lights appeared on the distant mountain, moving closer like torches. It was the eyes of the giant centipede. The monster was so large its body wrapped around the mountain seven times.
Hidesato fired his first arrow, which struck the beast but bounced off its armored shell. He fired a second arrow, with the same result. With only one arrow left, Hidesato remembered that human saliva was poisonous to centipedes in folklore. He spat on the tip of the final arrow, drew his bow, and fired. The arrow pierced the centipede’s brain, killing it instantly.
The Rewards
In gratitude, the Dragon King took Hidesato to his underwater palace (Ryūgū-jō) and presented him with legendary gifts:
- A bag of rice that never emptied.
- A roll of silk that never ran out.
- A cooking pot that cooked food without fire.
- A magnificent temple bell.
Tawara Toda in Modern Culture
The legacy of Tawara Toda extends far beyond ancient scrolls. In modern Japan, he appears frequently in pop culture, bridging the gap between history and fantasy.
- Anime and Manga: Hidesato often appears in supernatural series involving yokai (spirits). The concept of the “Dragon King’s warrior” influences character designs in series like Fate/Grand Order or Nurarihyon no Mago.
- Festivals: Floats depicting Hidesato battling the centipede are common in the Gion Festival in Kyoto and other regional matsuri, symbolizing protection against evil spirits.
- Literature: The story has been adapted by Western writers, including Yei Theodora Ozaki in her famous Japanese Fairy Tales, introducing the hero to English-speaking audiences over a century ago.
Traveler’s Tips: Walking in the Hero’s Footsteps
If you are visiting Japan, you can visit the actual sites associated with this legend. A trip to Shiga Prefecture offers a perfect day trip from Kyoto.
1. Seta no Karahashi Bridge (Otsu City)
This is the legendary site of the encounter. While the current bridge is a concrete reconstruction (styled to look traditional), the views of Lake Biwa are stunning. It is considered one of the “Three Famous Bridges of Japan.”
2. Mount Mikami (The Fuji of Omi)
Known as “Omi-Fuji” due to its conical shape, this is the mountain where the centipede lived. It is a popular hiking spot today, standing at 432 meters. The hike is relatively gentle, and the summit offers a panoramic view of the lake Hidesato protected.
3. Mii-dera Temple
Remember the bell given to Hidesato by the Dragon King? Legend says he donated it to Mii-dera Temple. While the original bell has its own complex history involving the warrior monk Benkei, the temple itself is a treasure trove of history and offers beautiful cherry blossom views in spring.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the historical and mythological context of Tawara Toda, the following texts are essential:
- Konjaku Monogatarishu: A collection of tales from the late Heian period which contains the earliest versions of the centipede legend.
- Taiheiki: A 14th-century historical epic that recounts the genealogy of warriors, referencing Hidesato’s lineage and deeds.
- Otogizoshi: A collection of short stories from the Muromachi period that popularized the fairy-tale version of the story.
- Historical Context: While the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki cover Japan’s creation myths and early history (pre-dating Hidesato), they establish the lore of Dragon Kings and deities that makes the Tawara Toda legend possible.