Exploring the Realm of Shadows: Japan’s Underworld Deity
When travelers think of Japanese mythology, images of the radiant Sun Goddess Amaterasu or the storm-wielding Susanoo often come to mind. However, beneath the verdant landscapes and majestic torii gates lies a darker, more primordial narrative. It is the story of Izanami-no-Mikoto, the Great Goddess who transitioned from the mother of creation to the terrifying deity of the underworld.
For the culture-seeking traveler, understanding the “Meikai-shin” (Underworld Deity) offers a profound look into how ancient Japan processed death, grief, and the boundaries between the living and the dead.
The Origins: From Creator to Destroyer
In the beginning, according to Japan’s oldest chronicles, the universe was a chaotic oil-like mass. From this, two divine beings emerged: Izanagi (The Male Who Invites) and Izanami (The Female Who Invites). Together, they stood on the Floating Bridge of Heaven and stirred the seas with a jeweled spear to create the islands of Japan.
Izanami was not born a distinct god of death. She was the ultimate mother figure, birthing the islands, the seas, the mountains, and the vegetation. Her transition to the Underworld Deity was born of tragedy. While birthing Kagutsuchi, the God of Fire, she was burned so severely that she passed away. This event marked the first death in the world, introducing the concept of mortality to existence.
The Legend: Descent into Yomi
The myth of Izanami reaches its climax in the land of Yomi-no-kuni, the Land of the Dead. Overcome with grief, her husband Izanagi traveled to the underworld to retrieve her, echoing the Greek myth of Orpheus and Eurydice.
The Broken Taboo
Izanami met him at the gates of Yomi but warned him that she had already eaten the food of the underworld, making her return difficult. She asked him to wait while she petitioned the gods of the shadow realm, forbidding him from looking at her.
Impatience consumed Izanagi. He lit a tooth of his comb to see into the darkness. What he saw horrified him: his beautiful wife was now a rotting corpse, with eight thunder deities dwelling within her body. Shamed and enraged that he had seen her in her decay, Izanami transformed from a loving wife into a vengeful demon.
The Chase and the Divorce
She chased him out of Yomi with an army of hags. Izanagi barely escaped, sealing the entrance (Yomotsu Hirasaka) with a massive boulder. From behind the rock, Izanami swore a vow: “I will strangle one thousand of your people every day.” Izanagi replied, “Then I will cause one thousand and five hundred to be born every day.”
Thus, she became Yomotsu-Ookami, the Great Deity of the Underworld, cementing the cycle of life and death.
Modern Culture and Perspectives
Today, the concept of the Underworld Deity in Japan is a blend of Shinto and Buddhism. While Izanami represents the Shinto view of death as kegare (impurity/pollution), Buddhism introduced figures like Enma-Dai-O (King Yama), the judge of the dead who decides one’s fate based on karma.
In pop culture, the imagery of Yomi and its deities appears frequently in anime and video games, often depicted as a realm of shadows or a dimensional rift. However, in traditional culture, respect for the dead is paramount. The Obon festival in August is a time when the spirits of ancestors are believed to return to the living world, a gentler reflection of the bridge between life and death.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Boundary
For those brave enough to explore the roots of this dark legend, there are specific locations in Japan associated with the entrance to Yomi.
1. Iya Shrine (Shimane Prefecture)
Located in the Matsue area, this shrine is intimately connected to Izanami. Just a short distance away lies Yomotsu Hirasaka, the legendary slope believed to be the sealed entrance to the underworld. It is a quiet, atmospheric spot marked by large stones, where visitors can feel the weight of ancient mythology.
2. Hana-no-Iwaya Shrine (Mie Prefecture)
Said to be the oldest shrine in Japan, this is the legendary location of Izanami’s grave. There is no building; instead, a massive 45-meter rock serves as the object of worship. It is a powerful, spiritual place surrounded by ancient forests.
3. Etiquette
When visiting shrines associated with the underworld or graves:
- Be respectful: These are not just tourist spots but active religious sites.
- Purification: Always wash your hands at the chozuya before approaching.
- Quiet Contemplation: Unlike the busy temples of Kyoto, these sites are often silent and somber. Maintain a low volume.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese mythology and the Underworld Deity, the following historical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Completed in 712 AD, this is the primary source for the myths of Izanagi and Izanami.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, offering slightly different variations of the creation and underworld myths.
- Japanese Buddhist Statuary: For information regarding Enma-O and the Buddhist interpretation of the hell realms (Jigoku).