Unveiling Ekijin: Japan’s Complex Gods of Pestilence
When travelers think of Japanese Shintoism, images of benevolent nature spirits, sun goddesses, and foxes guarding rice harvests often come to mind. However, within the pantheon of the Yaoyorozu no Kami (Eight Million Gods), there exists a darker, more formidable group of deities known as Ekijin (疫神). These are the gods of plague, pestilence, and epidemics. While the concept might sound terrifying, the cultural approach to Ekijin is not merely about fear—it is about respect, appeasement, and the fascinating duality of destruction and protection.
Origins: From Fear to Reverence
The term Ekijin literally translates to “Epidemic God.” In ancient Japan, before the germ theory of disease was understood, sudden outbreaks of smallpox, influenza, or dysentery were attributed to supernatural forces. These forces were often personified as Ekijin or Yakubyou-gami.
Historically, Ekijin were not always seen as inherently evil demons, but rather as powerful, volatile spirits. They often fell under the category of Goryo—vengeful spirits of aristocrats or martyrs who died tragic deaths. The ancient Japanese believed that if these spirits were neglected, they would bring about natural disasters and plagues. However, if they were properly honored and appeased through rituals, they could transform into powerful guardians against the very calamities they caused. This practice of pacifying spirits to prevent disaster is known as Goryo-shinko.
Furthermore, Ekijin were often viewed as outsiders or foreign intruders who breached the boundaries of the village, bringing sickness from the “other world.” This led to the placement of guardian deities at village borders to block their entry.
Legend: The Tale of Somin Shorai
One of the most enduring legends regarding the Ekijin connects to the figure of Gozu Tenno (the Ox-Headed Emperor), a deity often syncretized with Susanoo-no-Mikoto (the Shinto storm god) and associated with pestilence.
The legend tells of a deity traveling disguised as a weary human traveler seeking shelter for the night. He first approached the home of Kotan Shorai, a wealthy man. Despite his riches, Kotan refused the traveler, shutting the door in his face. The deity then went to the home of Somin Shorai, Kotan’s much poorer brother. Despite having very little, Somin welcomed the stranger, offering him a millet meal and a warm place to sleep.
Revealing his true divine nature, the god warned Somin that a terrible plague was coming. He instructed Somin to weave a wreath of chin fibrous reeds (chinowa) and wear it around his waist. When the epidemic swept through the land, the wealthy brother and his family perished, but Somin Shorai and his family were spared.
This legend established the tradition that Ekijin can be reasoned with and that specific rituals (like the chinowa) grant immunity.
Modern Culture: Festivals of Purification
While modern medicine treats the physical causes of disease, the cultural footprint of the Ekijin remains massive in contemporary Japan. The most famous example is the Gion Matsuri in Kyoto, one of Japan’s most famous festivals.
Originating in the year 869, the Gion Matsuri began as a religious ritual called a Goryo-e to appease the angry spirits causing a massive plague across Kyoto. The immense floats and processions seen today were originally intended to please the Ekijin (specifically Gozu Tenno) so the sickness would abate. Today, it is a celebration of Kyoto culture, but its roots are deeply tied to pandemic management.
Another modern remnant of this belief is the Chinowa Kuguri ritual performed at shrines across Japan in late June. Visitors step through a large grass hoop (referencing the Somin Shorai legend) in a figure-eight pattern to cleanse themselves of impurities and ward off illness for the remainder of the year.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the History of Healing
If you are interested in the spiritual side of Japan’s history with medicine and healing, here are a few tips for your next trip:
1. Visit Yasaka Shrine (Kyoto)
This is the spiritual home of the Gion Matsuri. It is dedicated to Susanoo-no-Mikoto and is the central location for prayers against pestilence. It is located in the Gion district and is beautiful to visit day or night.
2. Look for the Chinowa
If you travel in late June (Nagoshi no Harae), look for large reed rings standing in front of Torii gates at major shrines. Follow the locals: bow, step through, turn left, step through, turn right, step through again.
3. Purchase a “Yakuyoke” Omamori
Most shrines sell Omamori (amulets). Look for those labeled Yakuyoke (warding off evil/calamity) or specifically for health (Byoki-heiyu). These make excellent, culturally significant souvenirs.
4. Respect the Rituals
When participating in purification rituals, do so with somber respect. Wash your hands at the temizuya (water pavilion) before entering the main shrine grounds.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the foundational myths regarding Susanoo-no-Mikoto.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For historical context on early imperial rituals.
- Bingo no Kuni Fudoki: The ancient provincial record that contains the specific legend of Somin Shorai.
- Kyoto’s Gion Festival Records: Historical archives regarding the 869 epidemic and the origins of the Goryo-e.