The Legend of the Night Crying Stone: Japan’s Haunted Rock
Japan is a land where the line between the physical and the spiritual often blurs. On the mist-covered paths of the ancient Tokaido road, stones are not merely geological formations; they are vessels for history, emotion, and sometimes, the souls of the departed. Among these lithic legends, few are as poignant or famous as the Yonaki-ishi, or the “Night Crying Stone.”
Located in the dangerous mountain pass of Sayo no Nakayama in Shizuoka Prefecture, this stone has captivated travelers, poets, and artists for centuries. It stands as a silent (yet historically vocal) witness to a tragedy of the Edo period, embodying the fierce protective instinct of a mother that transcends even death.
Origins: The Perilous Pass of Sayo no Nakayama
To understand the legend, one must first understand the setting. During the Edo period (1603–1867), the Tokaido road was the vital artery connecting the Shogun’s capital in Edo (Tokyo) to the Imperial capital in Kyoto. While parts of the road were scenic and safe, the Sayo no Nakayama pass near present-day Kakegawa City was notorious. It was steep, winding, and plagued by bandits who preyed on weary travelers.
In Japanese folklore and Shinto animism, stones are often believed to house spirits (kami). However, the Yonaki-ishi is not worshiped as a god of nature, but rather revered as a monument to human tragedy. Its fame grew so significant that it was immortalized in Utagawa Hiroshige’s famous woodblock print series, The Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido, cementing its place in Japanese cultural history.
The Legend of the Crying Stone
The tale dates back several centuries. According to the folklore, a pregnant woman was traveling alone over the Sayo no Nakayama pass to meet her husband. As dusk fell, she was ambushed by a bandit—or in some versions, a wicked mountain brigand—who sought to steal her money and belongings.
Despite her pleas for mercy, the bandit murdered the woman, leaving her body in the brush near a large roadside boulder. However, the woman’s soul was so consumed with worry for her unborn child that it did not pass on to the afterlife. Instead, her spirit inhabited the nearby stone.
As night deepened, a mournful crying sound began to emanate from the rock. The wails echoed through the valley, eventually reaching the ears of a priest from the nearby Kyuen-ji Temple. Following the supernatural cries, the priest discovered the murdered woman and, miraculously, her newborn baby, who had survived the attack.
The priest took the child in, raising him with care. The boy, named Oto-hachi, grew up to be a master swordsman. Years later, he would track down his mother’s killer to exact vengeance, guided by the spiritual connection to the stone that saved his life. The stone, having fulfilled its duty, ceased its nightly weeping, though it remains a site of pilgrimage.
Modern Culture and Literary Impact
The story of the Night Crying Stone has permeated Japanese culture far beyond the immediate region of Shizuoka. It is a classic example of kaidan (ghost stories) that emphasize karma and familial bonds rather than pure horror.
Haiku and Woodblock Prints
The legendary haiku poet Matsuo Basho traveled this very road. While he did not write specifically about the crying stone in his most famous collection, the atmosphere of Sayo no Nakayama influenced the somber tone of travel diaries of the era. However, it was Hiroshige’s print depicting the stone that brought visual fame to the legend, showing travelers marveling at the roadside oddity.
The Tea House Tradition
Historically, tea houses sprung up around the stone to serve curious travelers. A local specialty known as Kosodate Ame (Child-Rearing Candy) is often associated with this legend. The candy is said to be the sustenance the ghost mother (or the priest) used to keep the infant alive, a motif found in similar “ghost mother” stories across Japan.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Stone Today
For travelers interested in Japanese folklore and history, visiting the Night Crying Stone is a rewarding detour from the typical Golden Route.
Where to see it: Strangely, there are currently two stones claiming to be the legendary Yonaki-ishi.
- The Roadside Stone: Located on the side of Route 1 (the modern road following the Tokaido). This is the spot often visited by drivers and casual tourists.
- Kyuen-ji Temple: The temple associated with the legend houses another stone, which they claim is the original. The temple offers a quiet, atmospheric setting conducive to contemplating the sad tale.
Access: The area is best accessed via Kakegawa Station on the Tokaido Shinkansen. From there, it is a short taxi ride or a bus trip to the Sayo no Nakayama area. Hiking the remnants of the old Tokaido road here offers a glimpse into the arduous journey of Edo-period travelers.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido: Visual references by Utagawa Hiroshige.
- Tokaido Meisho Zue: An Edo-period illustrated guide to famous sites along the Tokaido.
- Japanese Ghost Stories: Various compilations by Lafcadio Hearn (Yakumo Koizumi), which frequently touch upon the themes of stone spirits and ghostly mothers.
- Nihon Shoki & Kojiki: While not containing this specific legend, these ancient texts provide the foundational context for Iwakura (sacred rock) worship in Japan.
Whether you believe in the supernatural or simply appreciate the depth of human storytelling, the Night Crying Stone remains a powerful symbol of a mother’s love that echoed through the ages.