The Mystery of Ohaguro-bettari: The Laughter in the Dark
Japanese folklore is a treasure trove of the eerie and the unexplained. While many travelers are familiar with the Tengu or the Kappa, there exists a far more unsettling figure that haunts the twilight hours of old temple grounds. She is known as the Ohaguro-bettari (お歯黒べったりの怪笑), a yōkai (spirit) that embodies the terrifying twist on traditional beauty standards.
For culture seekers and horror enthusiasts alike, understanding the Ohaguro-bettari offers a fascinating glimpse into the Edo period’s aesthetics and the fears that lurked in the shadows of ancient Japan.
Origins: The Tradition of Blackened Teeth
To understand this yōkai, one must first understand the cultural practice of Ohaguro. For Westerners, the concept of blackening one’s teeth might seem grotesque, but in Japanese history—specifically from the Heian period through the Meiji Restoration—it was a symbol of maturity, beauty, and marital status.
The Symbolism of Ohaguro
Upper-class women, and later married women of all classes, would dye their teeth pitch black using a solution made of iron filings and vinegar, known as kanemizu. This pitch-black smile was considered attractive because it complemented the white face powder (oshiroi) used at the time. The black teeth were meant to vanish in the shadows of a dimly lit room, creating an illusion of an enigmatic smile.
The Ohaguro-bettari is a corruption of this ideal. The name roughly translates to “nothing but blackened teeth.” She manifests as a figure wearing a beautiful bridal kimono, often crouching near shrines or temples. From behind, she appears to be a graceful, elegant woman.
The Legend: A Smile Without Eyes
The classic encounter with an Ohaguro-bettari follows a suspenseful script common in Japanese ghost stories (kaidan). It typically involves a man walking alone at night, perhaps near a lonely temple or a willow tree.
He spots a woman turned away from him, seemingly weeping or in distress. Her attire suggests she is a bride or a lady of high standing. Moved by chivalry or curiosity, the man approaches to offer assistance. He calls out to her, asking what is wrong. The woman continues to hide her face until he is right beside her.
Suddenly, she turns around.
The Reveal
The horror of the Ohaguro-bettari lies in what she lacks. Her face is a smooth, blank canvas of white powder. She has no eyes to weep with, no nose to breathe with, and no eyebrows. There is only one feature on her face: a large, gaping mouth filled with pitch-black teeth.
Upon revealing her face, she unleashes a shrill, mocking laughter—”Kera kera!”—terrifying the man into fleeing. Unlike more violent yōkai, the Ohaguro-bettari rarely physically harms her victims; she exists primarily to terrify, using the contrast between the expectation of beauty and the reality of the grotesque.
She is often confused with the Noppera-bō (the faceless ghost), but the distinction is crucial: the Noppera-bō has absolutely no features, whereas the Ohaguro-bettari is defined by that singular, obsessive mouth.
Modern Culture: From Woodblocks to Anime
The image of the Ohaguro-bettari was cemented in the public consciousness during the Edo period, particularly through the works of Toriyama Sekien, a scholar and ukiyo-e artist who cataloged supernatural creatures.
In modern Japan, she remains a popular figure in pop culture:
- Anime and Manga: She frequently appears in the beloved series GeGeGe no Kitarō as a recurring character, often depicted more mischievously than maliciously.
- Haunted Houses: During summer Obon festivals, traditional Japanese haunted houses (obake-yashiki) often feature animatronics or actors dressed as Ohaguro-bettari to startle guests.
Her enduring presence speaks to the deep-seated human fear of identity loss and the subversion of familiar rituals.
Traveler’s Tips: Where to Find Yōkai Culture
If you are a traveler looking to explore the spooky side of Japan, there are specific destinations dedicated to preserving these legends.
1. Mizuki Shigeru Road (Sakaiminato)
Located in Tottori Prefecture, this town is the birthplace of the creator of GeGeGe no Kitarō. The main street is lined with over 170 bronze statues of yōkai, including the Ohaguro-bettari. It is a whimsical rather than scary experience, perfect for photos.
2. Kyoto Yōkai Street (Ichijo-dori)
Kyoto is the heart of traditional folklore. Ichijo-dori is known as the path of the “Night Parade of One Hundred Demons.” Local shops decorate their storefronts with homemade yōkai monsters, and annual costume parades bring these legends to life.
3. Miyoshi City (Tokushima)
Deep in the Iya Valley, this area is known for its legends of the Konaki-jiji and other mountain spirits. The remote, misty bridges and dense forests provide the perfect atmospheric backdrop for imagining an encounter with the supernatural.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in diving deeper into the history of Japanese folklore and the context of these legends, the following texts are essential:
- The Illustrated Night Parade of a Hundred Demons (Gazu Hyakki Yagyō) by Toriyama Sekien – The seminal visual catalog of yōkai from 1776.
- Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things by Lafcadio Hearn – A classic collection of ghost stories introducing Western audiences to Japanese horror.
- Nihon Shoki and Kojiki – While these ancient texts focus on Shinto gods and the creation of Japan, they lay the spiritual foundation of animism that allows yōkai folklore to thrive.