The Scent of Otoso: Japan’s Medicinal New Year Sake
If you find yourself in Japan on the morning of January 1st, specifically within the walls of a traditional home or a high-end ryokan (inn), you might catch a whiff of a unique, spicy aroma mingling with the winter air. It is not the smell of food cooking, nor is it plain rice wine. It is the scent of Otoso (O-toso), a medicinal spiced sake that serves as the spiritual centerpiece of the Japanese New Year (Oshogatsu).
While most travelers are familiar with the vibrant sushi platters and colorful Osechi Ryori boxes, Otoso remains a fascinating, somewhat esoteric cultural gem. Imbibing this elixir is believed to wash away the previous year’s maladies and grant longevity for the year ahead.
Introduction to the Ritual
Otoso is not drunk for intoxication but for purification. The name itself is derived from two kanji characters: So (breech or evil spirits) and To (to slaughter or bury). Therefore, drinking Otoso literally translates to “slaughtering the evil spirits” within the body.
The drink consists of three ingredients: sake (rice wine), mirin (sweet rice wine), and toso-san, a mixture of five to ten traditional medicinal herbs. The resulting flavor is syrupy, medicinal, and warming, with a bouquet dominated by cinnamon, Japanese pepper (sansho), and rhubarb. It is the scent of history itself, bridging the gap between ancient medicine and modern celebration.
Origins: From Tang China to the Imperial Court
Like many high-culture traditions in Japan, the roots of Otoso can be traced back to China. It is widely believed to have originated during the Tang Dynasty, formulated by the legendary physician Sun Simiao. The mixture was originally created as a preventative medicine for colds and fevers, which were rampant during the cold winter months.
The custom crossed the sea to Japan during the Heian Period (794–1185). Historical records indicate that during the reign of Emperor Saga in the early 9th century, the drinking of Otoso became a formal court ritual held at the Imperial Palace. For centuries, it remained an exclusive privilege of the aristocracy. It wasn’t until the Edo Period (1603–1867) that the practice trickled down to the common class, becoming a standard fixture of the Japanese New Year alongside mochi and shrine visits.
Legend and Folklore
Beyond the historical timeline, Otoso is steeped in folklore. One popular legend tells of a monk living in a hermitage who created the herbal blend to save villagers from a plague. He distributed the powder on New Year’s Eve, instructing them to soak it in sake and drink it the next morning.
A famous proverb associated with the drink states: “If one person drinks this, their family will not fall ill; if the whole family drinks, the village will not fall ill.” This elevates Otoso from a personal health tonic to a communal talisman. The scent of the herbs wafting through the house is said to be enough to drive away demons of sickness (known as yakubyo-gami).
Modern Culture and Etiquette
Today, the Otoso ceremony is performed on the morning of New Year’s Day. It is traditionally served in a special lacquerware set called a tosoki, which includes a vermillion teapot and three nesting cups (sakazuki) of increasing size.
The etiquette of drinking Otoso is unique and contrary to usual Japanese drinking customs. Typically, one pours drinks for elders first as a sign of respect. However, for Otoso, the order is reversed: the youngest member of the family drinks first, and the eldest drinks last. This symbolic gesture allows the vitality of the youth to flow upward to the elderly, granting them strength and longevity.
The ritual usually precedes the eating of Osechi Ryori. The head of the household pours a small amount into the smallest cup, which the recipient drinks in three small sips. This is repeated with the medium and large cups, passed among family members. The atmosphere is solemn yet celebratory, marked by the distinct, spicy fragrance of the herbs.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Otoso
For travelers visiting Japan during the New Year holidays (January 1st to 3rd), experiencing Otoso requires a bit of planning, as it is primarily a household tradition.
- Stay at a Ryokan: The best way to experience authentic Otoso is to book a stay at a traditional ryokan over New Year’s. Many high-end inns serve a small ceremonial cup of Otoso with the special New Year’s breakfast.
- Visit Shinto Shrines: Some major shrines offer Omiki (sacred sake) to visitors on New Year’s Day. While this is often plain sake, some shrines serve spiced Otoso or distribute the herbal packets.
- Buy the Sachets: If you are renting an apartment or want a souvenir, visit a Japanese drugstore or supermarket in late December. Look for Toso-san (屠蘇散). These are tea-bag-like sachets containing the spice mix (cinnamon, dried ginger, balloon flower root, etc.). You can steep one in a bottle of good sake for 7–8 hours to create your own Otoso.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the depth of Japanese purification rituals involving sake, the following historical texts and periods provide essential context:
- The Engishiki (Procedures of the Engi Era): Compiled in the early 10th century, this text details the court rituals of the Heian period, including the specific medicinal ceremonies adopted from China that evolved into the Otoso tradition.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While predating the specific Otoso formula, this ancient text (720 AD) establishes the sacred importance of sake (miki) in communicating with kami (gods) and purification rites, laying the cultural foundation for New Year’s libations.
- Heian Period Literature: Works such as The Tale of Genji occasionally reference the aromatic and ritualistic aspects of court life, providing atmospheric context for the adoption of such customs.