Nanakusa Gayu: Rejuvenating with Japan’s Seven Herb Rice Porridge
If you find yourself in Japan during the first week of January, you will witness a culinary landscape dominated by the lavish, sweet, and preserved foods of Osechi Ryori (traditional New Year feasts). However, as the festivities wind down on January 7th, the national menu shifts dramatically to something far simpler, greener, and deeply restorative: Nanakusa-gayu, or Seven Herb Rice Porridge.
This gentle, savory porridge marks the end of the New Year celebrations. It is a time-honored ritual designed to rest the stomach, ward off evil spirits, and wish for longevity and health in the coming year. For the cultural traveler, participating in this quiet tradition offers a glimpse into the Japanese reverence for seasonality and the subtle flavors of nature.
The Origins of the Festival
To understand Nanakusa-gayu, one must look to the ancient calendar system. January 7th is known as Jinjitsu no Sekku (The Festival of the Person), one of the five seasonal festivals (Gosekku) traditionally observed in the imperial court. The custom originated in China, where each of the first days of the new year was dedicated to a different creature—chickens, dogs, sheep, boars, cows, horses—and finally, humans on the seventh day.
In the Heian Period (794–1185), this custom merged with the indigenous Japanese practice of Wakana-tsumi (picking young herbs) to celebrate the first sprouting greens of spring. The seven herbs specifically chosen for this porridge are believed to possess the resilience of early spring, transferring their vitality to the consumer.
The “Spring Seven Herbs” (Haru no Nanakusa) are:
- Seri (Water Dropwort)
- Nazuna (Shepherd’s Purse)
- Gogyo (Cudweed)
- Hakobera (Chickweed)
- Hotokenota (Nipplewort)
- Suzuna (Turnip)
- Suzushiro (Daikon Radish)
Legend and Ritual
While the dish is primarily viewed as a health tonic today, its roots are steeped in mysticism and folklore. In ancient times, eating these herbs was not just about digestion; it was an act of exorcism.
There is a traditional ritual associated with the preparation of the greens on the evening before or the morning of January 7th. As the herbs are chopped on a cutting board, a specific chant, the Nanakusa-bayashi, is sung. The chant speaks of birds flying across the land and ensures that the herbs are potent enough to drive away malevolent spirits or agricultural pests.
The legend suggests that by consuming the young life force of these plants, which push through the cold earth before anything else, humans can absorb the energy of the land itself. This aligns with Shinto beliefs regarding the sacredness of nature and the vitality found in fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Modern Culture: Convenience and Continuity
In modern Japan, few people trek into the wild to forage for shepherd’s purse or chickweed. Instead, the tradition has been preserved through convenience. In the days leading up to January 7th, every supermarket and grocery store in Japan displays plastic containers packed with the requisite seven herbs, washed and ready for the pot.
The porridge is typically eaten for breakfast. It is a stark contrast to the heavy mochi and soy-sauce-laden dishes of the prior week. The flavor is mild—often seasoned only with salt—allowing the slight bitterness of the greens and the sweetness of the turnip and radish to shine through. It serves as a culinary reset button, preparing the body to return to work and daily life after the holidays.
Traveler’s Tips: How to Experience Nanakusa Gayu
If you are traveling in Japan on January 7th, here is how you can partake in this healthy tradition:
- Stay at a Ryokan: If you are staying at a traditional Japanese inn with breakfast included, they will almost certainly serve Nanakusa-gayu on this morning.
- Visit a Shrine: Some major Shinto shrines distribute the porridge to visitors. For example, the Gokogu Shrine in Kyoto or select shrines in Tokyo often hold Nanakusa festivals where the porridge is cooked in massive cauldrons and served to the public.
- Convenience Stores: Believe it or not, many konbini (convenience stores) now sell instant, freeze-dried soup cups or pre-made pouches of Nanakusa-gayu during this specific week.
- Manage Expectations: Do not expect a flavor explosion. This dish is about subtlety, texture, and the cultural significance of cleansing. It is humble food at its finest.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japanese seasonal festivals and food culture, the following texts provide foundational knowledge:
- Engishiki (Procedures of the Engi Era): Compiled in the 10th century, this text details court rituals and laws, providing context for how the Jinjitsu festival was formalized in court society.
- The Tale of Genji: Written by Murasaki Shikibu in the Heian period, this literary masterpiece contains references to the “Day of the Rat” and the picking of seedling herbs, illustrating the aristocratic origins of the custom.
- Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) & Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While these ancient texts do not describe the Nanakusa recipe explicitly, they are essential for understanding the Shinto cosmology and the agrarian reverence for the “fruits of the land” that underpin all Japanese seasonal festivals.