Okuribi: The Guidance of Farewell Fire
In the humid heat of a Japanese August, as the buzzing of cicadas begins to fade into the twilight, a profound silence descends upon the ancient city of Kyoto. It is the culmination of Obon, the season when the veil between the world of the living and the world of the dead is at its thinnest. This spiritual journey concludes with a spectacular and solemn ritual known as Okuribi (送り火), or the “Farewell Fire.” These fires serve a critical purpose: to act as a beacon, providing guidance to ancestral spirits as they depart the earthly realm to return to the spirit world.
The Essence of the Farewell Fire
To understand Okuribi, one must first understand the Obon festival. Celebrated in mid-August, Obon is a time when families gather to honor their ancestors, believing that the spirits of the deceased return to visit their household altars. The festival begins with Mukaebi (welcoming fire), small fires lit at the gates of homes to guide spirits in. It ends with Okuribi, the sending-off fire.
The “Guidance of Farewell Fire” is not merely a disposal of the spirits; it is an act of love, gratitude, and navigation. Without this illumination, it is feared that the souls might lose their way in the darkness of the netherworld or linger too long in the realm of the living, becoming lost ghosts (yurei). The fire acts as a lighthouse, piercing the spiritual gloom to ensure a safe passage back to the Pure Land.
Origins: A Syncretic Tradition
The roots of Okuribi are deeply enshrined in the syncretic blend of indigenous Shinto beliefs and Japanese Buddhism. The concept of caring for ancestral spirits predates Buddhism in Japan, rooted in ancient ancestor worship. However, the specific timing and rituals align with the Buddhist Ullambana Sutra, which tells the story of Moginlin (Mokuren), a disciple of Buddha who saved his mother from the Realm of Hungry Ghosts through offerings.
The most famous manifestation of this tradition, the Gozan no Okuribi (Five Mountain Farewell Fires) in Kyoto, has origins that are shrouded in the mists of history. While local records suggest the fires began in the Edo period (1603–1867), oral traditions and temple records hint that the practice of lighting mountain fires to communicate with the divine may go back to the Heian period, initiated by influential monks like Kobo Daishi (Kukai).
The Legend of the Mountain Fires
Why are huge characters burned into the sides of mountains? Legend holds that the fires possess purifying powers that extend beyond the dead to the living.
The most iconic symbol is the character Dai (大), meaning “Great” or “Large,” etched into Mount Daimonji. Folklore suggests that Kobo Daishi himself carved the original layout of the fire pits. A prevailing superstition among Kyotoites is that if one drinks water or sake from a cup that reflects the red light of the burning Dai character, they will be protected from illness and paralysis for the coming year.
Another legend surrounds the Funagata (Shape of a Boat) fire. It is said that the boat shape represents the vehicle that ferries the souls across the Sanzu River (the Japanese equivalent of the River Styx). The fire is not just a map; it is the vessel itself, constructed of light and smoke, carrying the collective weight of the ancestors back to peace.
Modern Culture: The Five Mountains of Kyoto
Today, the Gozan no Okuribi is one of Kyoto’s signature events, drawing thousands of spectators on the night of August 16th. The atmosphere is a unique juxtaposition of a somber religious rite and a communal festival.
Starting at 8:00 PM, the fires are lit sequentially across five mountains surrounding the city bowl:
- Daimonji (大): The great character on Mt. Nyoigatake.
- Myo-Ho (妙法): Meaning “Wondrous Dharma” (teachings of Buddha), appearing on two separate peaks.
- Funagata (舟形): The shape of a boat.
- Hidari Daimonji (左大文字): The “Left Great” character.
- Toriigata (鳥居形): The shape of a Shinto shrine gate (Torii).
While this large-scale event captures global attention, the “Guidance of Farewell Fire” remains a domestic intimacy. In rural areas and suburbs, families still light small heaps of hemp reeds (ogara) at their doorsteps. They gaze silently at the smoke rising vertically into the night sky, whispering “Sayonara” (Goodbye) and “Mata rainen” (See you next year) to their departed loved ones.
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing Okuribi
If you plan to witness the Guidance of Farewell Fire in Kyoto, preparation is key.
- Timing: The fires are lit starting at 8:00 PM on August 16th. They burn for approximately 30 minutes. Arrive at your viewing spot by 6:30 PM or 7:00 PM.
- Best Viewing Spots: The banks of the Kamo River (specifically around the delta where the Takano and Kamo rivers meet) offer excellent views of the main Daimonji. For a panoramic view, some hotels offer rooftop dinners, but these must be booked months in advance.
- Etiquette: While there is a festive mood with street food stalls (yatai), remember that this is fundamentally a religious memorial service. Locals may be praying as the fires are lit. Be respectful of the silence during the ignition.
- Toro Nagashi: After the fires, head toward Arashiyama to see the Toro Nagashi, where lanterns are floated down the river, another form of guiding spirits back to the other world.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the theological and historical underpinnings of these rituals, the following texts and organizations provide deeper insight:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): For context on early Japanese concepts of the afterlife and nature worship.
- The Ullambana Sutra: The primary Buddhist text regarding the origins of Obon and offerings to ancestors.
- Kyoto City Tourism Association: Provides annual updates on the Gozan no Okuribi schedule and viewing maps.
- Hearn, Lafcadio: His collection Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan offers evocative 19th-century descriptions of the Bon festival and the sentiment of the Japanese people toward the dead.