The Legend of Tawara Toda: Slaying the Giant Centipede
Japan is a country where the veil between the historical and the mythical is often thin. Nowhere is this more evident than on the shores of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture. While tourists flock to Kyoto nearby, folklore enthusiasts know that the Seta Bridge—spanning the lake’s outlet—is the setting for one of Japan’s most celebrated hero tales: the story of Tawara Toda and the Giant Centipede.
This legend combines bravery, dragons, and supernatural archery, centering on a real historical figure whose life became entangled with the fantastic. For travelers looking to explore the deeper cultural roots of the Kansai region, understanding this story brings the landscape of Lake Biwa to life.
The Origins of the Hero
Before diving into the monster slaying, it is essential to understand the hero. Tawara Toda (俵藤太) is the legendary nickname of Fujiwara no Hidesato, a real military commander from the Heian period (794–1185). Hidesato was a powerful warrior famous for his archery skills and his role in suppressing the rebellion of Taira no Masakado in the 10th century.
The nickname “Tawara” translates to “Straw Rice Bag.” While some historians suggest it derived from his place of residence, folklore claims he earned the name after his supernatural encounter, referencing the inexhaustible bag of rice he received as a reward. He is the ancestor of several major samurai clans, making him a pivotal figure in both history and myth.
The Legend of the Centipede Slaying
The tale, often recounted in collections like the Otogi-zoshi, begins on the Seta Bridge in Omi Province (modern-day Shiga). One day, Hidesato attempted to cross the bridge but found his path blocked by a colossal giant serpent (or dragon) sleeping across the structure. While other travelers fled in terror, Hidesato, undaunted, simply stomped over the beast and continued his way.
Moments later, a voice called out to him. The serpent transformed into a beautiful woman (sometimes depicted as a dragon king). She explained that she lived in Lake Biwa and had been testing men for their bravery. Her family was being tormented by a Giant Centipede (Mukade) that lived on the nearby Mount Mikami. The monster came down nightly to devour her kin, and she needed a warrior brave enough to kill it.
Hidesato agreed. Armed with his strong bow, he waited on the bridge as night fell. Eventually, two fiery lights appeared on Mount Mikami—the glowing eyes of the centipede. As the monster approached, its thousand legs clattering like thunder, Hidesato fired an arrow. It struck true but bounced off the creature’s armored shell. He fired a second, which also failed.
With only one arrow left, Hidesato remembered an old belief that human saliva is poisonous to centipedes. He spat on the tip of his final arrow and let it fly. The arrow pierced the monster’s brain, and the lights on the mountain went dark. The beast was slain.
In gratitude, the dragon princess took Hidesato to the underwater Dragon Palace (Ryugu-jo). She bestowed upon him legendary gifts, including a roll of silk that never ended, a copper temple bell, and a bag of rice that never emptied—earning him the name Tawara Toda.
Tawara Toda in Modern Culture
The image of the brave archer facing a giant monster is a staple in Japanese iconography. You can see echoes of this legend across various media:
- Ukiyo-e Art: Renowned artists like Tsukioka Yoshitoshi have immortalized the battle on the Seta Bridge in woodblock prints.
- Anime and Games: The character of Tawara Toda appears in the Fate series and Shin Megami Tensei, often depicted as a powerful archer with dragon connections.
- Festivals: In regional parades in the Kanto and Kansai regions, floats often depict Hidesato’s battle, symbolizing protection against evil spirits.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Legend
If you want to walk in the footsteps of the Centipede Slayer, head to Shiga Prefecture. Here are the must-visit spots:
1. The Seta Bridge (Setanokarahashi)
Located in Otsu City, this is one of the “Three Famous Bridges of Japan.” While the current structure is concrete (rebuilt in 1979) with traditional aesthetics, standing on the bridge allows you to visualize the dragon encounter. It is best visited at sunset for a stunning view of Lake Biwa.
2. Mount Mikami (Omi-Fuji)
The home of the giant centipede. It is called “Omi-Fuji” because of its conical shape resembling Mt. Fuji. It is a popular hiking spot today, standing at 432 meters. The hike is relatively gentle, taking about 45 minutes to an hour, offering panoramic views of the lake.
3. Mii-dera Temple (Onjo-ji)
According to the legend, the copper bell given to Hidesato by the dragon was donated to Mii-dera Temple. While the specific “dragon bell” is steeped in myth, the temple itself is a National Treasure and houses the famous “Benkei’s Bell” (which has its own separate legends). It is a sprawling complex that offers a deep dive into Tendai Buddhism.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the depth of Japanese mythology, one should look at the foundational texts. While the ancient chronicles like the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki establish the pantheon of gods and the nature of Japanese monsters (yokai), the specific tale of Tawara Toda rose to prominence in the medieval period.
- The Taiheiki (Chronicle of Great Peace): This 14th-century historical epic details the lineage of warriors and records the supernatural exploits of Fujiwara no Hidesato.
- Konjaku Monogatarishu: An earlier collection of tales from the late Heian period that includes varying accounts of Hidesato’s bravery.
- Otogi-zoshi: A collection of Muromachi-period narratives that popularized the fairy-tale version of the story most known today.