The Sound of Safety: Japan’s Hyoshigi Night Watch Tradition
If you find yourself wandering the quiet residential streets of Japan during a crisp winter evening, you may hear a distinctive, dry, percussive sound echoing off the walls. Clack… pause… Clack. This rhythmic sound, often accompanied by a deep voice chanting “Hi no yōjin” (Beware of fire), is the hallmark of the Yomawari—the traditional night watch. At the heart of this custom lies a deceptively simple instrument: the Hyoshigi.
These two wooden clappers serve as an auditory reminder of community safety, history, and the primal fear of fire that has shaped Japanese culture for centuries. Here is the story behind the sound.
Origins of the Night Watch
The tradition of the night watch is deeply rooted in the Edo period (1603–1867). During this era, Edo (modern-day Tokyo) was one of the largest cities in the world, constructed almost entirely of wood and paper. The density of the housing, combined with the use of open flames for cooking and heating, made the city a tinderbox. Fires were so frequent and devastating that they were ironically known as the “Flowers of Edo.”
To combat this constant threat, the Tokugawa Shogunate implemented a system of self-governance and neighborhood associations. The Yomawari (night patrol) was established as a civic duty. Watchmen would walk the streets on cold, dry nights, striking the hyoshigi—two blocks of hardwood, usually oak or ebony, connected by a cord—to signal their presence. The piercing, high-pitched clack cut through the ambient noise, warning residents to extinguish their cooking fires before going to sleep.
Legend and Fire Gods
While the hyoshigi themselves are practical tools, the cultural reverence and fear surrounding fire in Japan can be traced back to the country’s earliest mythological texts.
In the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters, c. 711-712 AD), the fear of fire is mythologized in the tragic story of the fire god, Kagutsuchi. According to the text, the birth of Kagutsuchi burned his mother, the creator goddess Izanami, leading to her death and descent into the underworld. This primordial trauma—the death of the mother goddess by fire—instilled a deep spiritual caution regarding flame in the Japanese psyche.
The chant associated with the hyoshigi, “Hi no yōjin,” is more than a safety warning; it is almost an incantation against the destructive power of Kagutsuchi. In folklore, the sound of the hyoshigi is also believed to cleanse the air of evil spirits. Interestingly, these clappers are also used in Kabuki theater and Sumo wrestling to heighten tension or mark ritual boundaries, further cementing their status as a sound that commands attention and respect from both humans and spirits.
Modern Culture: The Sound of December
In modern Japan, the practical necessity of the night watch has diminished due to advanced fireproofing and technology. However, the cultural practice survives, particularly during Toshi-no-se (the hectic end of the year).
Today, the patrol is typically conducted by members of the local shobodan (volunteer fire corps) or chonaikai (neighborhood association). It is a nostalgic sound for many Japanese people, signaling the arrival of winter and the New Year holidays. You will often see it portrayed in anime and television dramas to evoke a sense of neighborhood intimacy and traditional atmosphere.
The ritual serves a dual purpose today: it is a public relations campaign for fire safety during the dry winter months and a social bonding activity that strengthens community ties. In some regions, children accompany the adults, clapping smaller blocks and learning the importance of civic duty.
Traveler’s Tips
For travelers hoping to witness this auditory slice of Japanese culture, here is how to increase your chances:
- When to Go: The best time to hear the hyoshigi is between December 25th and December 30th. Patrols usually occur between 8:00 PM and 10:00 PM.
- Where to Go: You are unlikely to hear them in the neon-lit centers of Shibuya or Shinjuku. Instead, head to traditional “Shitamachi” (downtown) residential areas in Tokyo, such as Yanaka, Nezu, or Asakusa. Alternatively, the narrow streets of Kyoto’s Gion and Higashiyama districts, or onsen towns like Kinosaki, preserve this tradition faithfully.
- Etiquette: If you encounter a patrol, simply step aside to let them pass. It is a solemn community service, so observe quietly. A respectful nod is appropriate.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the mythological weight of fire in Japanese culture and the historical structures of Edo society, the following texts are recommended:
- The Kojiki: For the origin myths surrounding the Fire God Kagutsuchi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Providing further context on ancient rituals and nature worship.
- Edo-period historical archives: Various local records detail the establishment of the machi-bikeshi (town fire brigades) and the neighborhood watch systems.