The Sacred Guardians of Mt. Hiei: Protecting Kyoto from the Demon Gate
High above the ancient capital of Kyoto, shrouded in perpetual mists and towering cedar trees, stands Mount Hiei (Hieizan). To the casual hiker, it is a scenic masterpiece offering panoramic views of Lake Biwa and the city below. However, to the culturally curious traveler, this mountain is much more than a natural landmark; it is a spiritual fortress. For over a millennium, Mount Hiei has served as the ultimate shield against darkness, embodying the concept of Hieizan no Shugo—the Protection of Mt. Hiei.
From the chanting monks of Enryaku-ji to the stone monkeys guarding the shrines at its base, the mountain is a living testament to Japan’s syncretic religious history and its enduring belief in spiritual geography.
Origins: The Sentinel of the Northeast
To understand why Mount Hiei is considered a guardian, one must look to the ancient principles of Onmyodo (traditional Japanese cosmology) and Feng Shui. In these belief systems, the Northeast direction is known as the Kimon, or the “Demon Gate.” It is believed that evil spirits and bad luck enter the physical world from this direction.
When Emperor Kammu decided to move the capital to Heian-kyo (modern-day Kyoto) in the late 8th century, the geography was carefully selected. Mount Hiei sits majestically in the northeast corner of the Kyoto basin. Recognizing this natural barrier, the Emperor sanctioned the monk Saicho (later known as Dengyo Daishi) to establish a monastery atop the peak.
In 788 AD, Saicho founded Enryaku-ji, the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The temple was not merely a place of learning; it was a spiritual watchtower. The monks performed—and continue to perform—esoteric rituals designed to seal the Demon Gate, effectively acting as a spiritual forcefield protecting the Imperial Palace and the city’s inhabitants below.
Legend: The Divine Monkeys of Hiyoshi Taisha
While the Buddhist monks guard the summit, the base of the mountain is protected by older, Shinto forces. Located in Sakamoto, at the eastern foot of Mt. Hiei, lies Hiyoshi Taisha, the head shrine of thousands of Hiyoshi, Hie, and Sanno shrines across Japan. Here, the protection of the mountain takes a unique form: the Masaru.
The Meaning of Masaru
Unlike the stone lions (komainu) that guard most Japanese shrines, Hiyoshi Taisha is guarded by statues of monkeys. These are not ordinary animals but divine messengers of the mountain deity, Sanno Gongen. The connection is deeply rooted in Japanese wordplay, which is often viewed as spiritually significant.
In Japanese, the word for monkey is saru. However, depending on the kanji characters used, the phonetic sound masaru can mean “Demon leaves” (魔去る) or “Victory excels” (勝る). Therefore, the monkeys of Mt. Hiei are symbols of expelling evil and ensuring success. According to local legend, these divine monkeys prowl the mountain borders, chasing away malevolent spirits that attempt to slip through the Demon Gate before they can reach Kyoto.
Modern Culture: A Living Tradition
The concept of Hieizan no Shugo is not a relic of the past; it remains a vibrant part of modern Kyoto culture. If you walk through the older neighborhoods of Kyoto, particularly in the northeast, you will often see small monkey amulets or wooden charms from Hiyoshi Taisha hanging above doorways. These are placed specifically to ward off bad luck associated with the Kimon.
Furthermore, the “Marathon Monks” (Gyoja) of Mt. Hiei bring this protection to life. These ascetic monks undertake the Kaihogyo, a grueling challenge of walking 1,000 days around the mountain over seven years. They act as living vessels of the mountain’s power, praying for the peace and protection of the nation with every step. Their presence reminds locals that the spiritual shield is being actively maintained.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the Sacred Mountain
Visiting Mount Hiei offers a profound glimpse into the spiritual architecture of Japan. Here is how to make the most of your pilgrimage:
- Start at the Base: Begin your journey at Hiyoshi Taisha in the town of Sakamoto. Look for the famous “Masaru” monkey statues. Some are caged (to prevent them from causing mischief at night, according to folklore), and others are carved into the elaborate shrine architecture.
- Ride the Cable Car: Take the Sakamoto Cable Car, the longest in Japan, up the mountain. As you ascend, imagine you are crossing the barrier between the human world and the sacred domain.
- Explore Enryaku-ji: At the summit, visit the Konpon Chudo, the main hall of Enryaku-ji. Inside glows the “Inextinguishable Dharma Light,” an oil lamp that has been burning continuously for over 1,200 years—a symbol of the enduring protection of the Buddhist law.
- Respect the Atmosphere: This is a functioning training ground for monks. Maintain a respectful volume and adhere to photography restrictions inside the temple halls.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical context of Japanese mythology and the interplay of Kami and Buddhas, the following texts and concepts are recommended:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While it focuses on the creation myths, it provides the foundation for understanding the Kami worshipped at the base of the mountain.
- The Tale of the Heike: Contains various references to the warrior monks of Mt. Hiei and their immense political and spiritual power in medieval Japan.
- Saicho: The Establishment of the Japanese Tendai School by Paul Groner.
Mount Hiei stands as a reminder that in Kyoto, the landscape itself is holy. Whether you seek history, nature, or a bit of good luck from a divine monkey, the guardians of the mountain are waiting.