The Caged Guardian: Unveiling the Monkey of Sarugatsuji
When travelers visit Kyoto, they are often drawn to the grandeur of Kinkaku-ji or the thousands of vermilion gates at Fushimi Inari. However, for those who appreciate the subtle interplay between history, folklore, and urban design, the true magic of Japan’s ancient capital lies in its details. One such hidden gem is located not inside a temple, but tucked away under the eaves of a wall at the Kyoto Imperial Palace (Kyoto Gosho). This is the story of the “Sarugatsuji no Saru,” or the Monkey of the Monkey Junction.
Introduction
Walk along the outer walls of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, specifically to the northeast corner where Imadegawa and Karasuma streets intersect. If you look closely at the architecture of the wall, you will notice a peculiar indentation. The corner is not a sharp 90-degree angle; instead, the wall folds inward, creating a notched recess. Nestled high under the roof of this notch sits a small, wooden statue of a monkey.
This is the Sarugatsuji (The Monkey’s Crossroads). While the statue might seem like a mere decorative quirk to the uninitiated, it represents centuries of geomantic belief and a delightful piece of local folklore that characterizes the spiritual protection of Kyoto.
Origins: The Demon Gate and Geomancy
To understand why a monkey sits in the northeast corner of the Imperial Palace, one must delve into Onmyodo (The Way of Yin and Yang) and traditional Feng Shui. In ancient East Asian cosmology, directions are deeply significant. The northeast direction is known as the Kimon (Demon Gate). It is believed that evil spirits and misfortune enter the world of the living from this direction.
In the Chinese Zodiac, the northeast corresponds to the intersection of the Ox (Ushi) and the Tiger (Tora). Consequently, the enemies of these demons (Oni) are found in the opposite direction on the zodiac wheel: the Southwest. The animal residing in the Southwest is the Monkey (Saru).
Therefore, to seal the Demon Gate and protect the Emperor residing within the palace, a monkey deity was placed as a spiritual guardian in that vulnerable northeast corner. The wall itself is indented (