Ura-kimon: Unveiling Japan’s Back Demon Gate Mystery
When walking through the historic streets of Kyoto or admiring the architecture of traditional Japanese homes, you are navigating a landscape shaped not just by geography, but by invisible spiritual forces. One of the most intriguing and pervasive concepts in Japanese geomancy is the Ura-kimon, or the “Back Demon Gate.” While many travelers admire the visible beauty of Japan, understanding the Ura-kimon unlocks a hidden layer of cultural depth, revealing how ancient superstitions still dictate modern life.
Introduction to the Demon Gates
In traditional Japanese cosmology, directions are far more than simple navigational tools; they are conduits for energy, both auspicious and malevolent. The concept stems from Onmyodo (The Way of Yin and Yang), a system of natural science, astronomy, and magic that developed in Japan based on Chinese philosophies.
Most spiritual caution is directed toward the Kimon (Demon Gate), which lies in the Northeast. However, directly opposite to this, in the Southwest, lies the Ura-kimon (Back Demon Gate). While the Kimon is often seen as the entry point for oni (demons) and bad luck, the Ura-kimon is viewed as the exit point—or a place where energy becomes unstable. It is the shadow to the light, requiring equal vigilance and spiritual protection to prevent misfortune from taking root.
Origins in Onmyodo and the Zodiac
The fear and respect for these directions find their roots in the Chinese Zodiac, which was overlaid onto the compass directions.
- Kimon (Northeast): This direction corresponds to the transition between the Ox and the Tiger in the zodiac. This is why traditional depictions of Japanese oni often feature bovine horns and tiger-skin loincloths.
- Ura-kimon (Southwest): Directly opposite, the Southwest corresponds to the Sheep and the Monkey.
Historically, when Heian-kyo (modern-day Kyoto) was designed in 794 AD, it was meticulously planned according to these feng shui principles. The grid layout of the city was not merely for urban efficiency but was a spiritual shield intended to protect the Emperor and the capital from malevolent spirits entering from these specific directional gates.
The Legend of the Monkey Guardian
Because the Ura-kimon falls within the domain of the Sheep and the Monkey in the zodiac wheel, the monkey (saru) became a pivotal figure in guarding this vulnerable direction. In Japanese folklore, monkeys are often seen as divine messengers, but their role here is aided by a linguistic pun.
The Japanese word for monkey, saru (猿), is a homophone for the verb saru (去る), which means “to leave” or “to dispel.” Therefore, placing a monkey statute at the Ura-kimon is a symbolic prayer for misfortune to “leave” or be dispelled from the premises.
One of the most famous legends involves the Nue, a chimera-like beast that terrorized the Imperial Palace. It is said that spiritual barriers were erected at the Kimon and Ura-kimon to prevent such monsters from manifesting. The reliance on the Monkey guardian is why you will often see monkey imagery specifically on the southwest corners of temple grounds or historic estates.
Modern Culture and Architecture
You might assume that these ancient beliefs faded with modernization, but the concept of Ura-kimon remains surprisingly influential in contemporary Japanese housing and architecture.
housing Superstitions
To this day, when Japanese architects design a family home, they often consult the homeowner regarding the placement of water features. It is considered highly inauspicious to place “impure” areas—specifically toilets, bathrooms, or kitchens—in the Northeast (Kimon) or Southwest (Ura-kimon) corners of the house. Doing so is believed to pollute the energy channels, leading to family illness or financial ruin.
Botanical Protection
If a house structure cannot be changed, locals use nature to fight the bad energy. You will often see Nanten (Sacred Bamboo) or Holly olive trees planted in the southwest corner of a garden. The word Nanten sounds like Nan-ten (trouble changes), implying that the plant will convert misfortune into fortune.
Traveler’s Tips: Seeing the Ura-kimon
For the culturally curious traveler, the Ura-kimon offers a fascinating scavenger hunt, particularly in Kyoto. Here is where you can see the “Back Demon Gate” in action:
The Kyoto Imperial Palace (Gosho)
Walk around the outer walls of the Kyoto Imperial Palace until you reach the northeast corner. While this is the main Kimon, you will notice the wall is indented—a technique called saru-ga-tsuji (Monkey’s intersection). While technically the Kimon, a wooden monkey is carved into the roof here to guard against the opposite direction’s influence, creating a spiritual balance.
Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine
Located south of Kyoto, this shrine was built specifically to guard the capital’s Ura-kimon (Southwest). It stands as a counterpart to Enryaku-ji Temple on Mount Hiei, which guards the main Kimon (Northeast). Visiting both completes a spiritual circuit of the ancient capital.
Omiwa Shrine
Look for Sugi-dama (cedar balls) or specific talismans (ofuda) placed in the southwest corners of buildings. When staying in a traditional Ryokan, take note of the room layout—you will rarely find the bathroom in the southwest corner.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese spiritual geography, consider exploring the following texts:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While primarily a historical record, it sets the stage for the introduction of Chinese calendar systems and cosmology to Japan.
- The Tale of Genji: Written in the Heian period, this literature offers glimpses into how directionality and superstitions ruled the lives of the aristocracy.
- Onmyodo Historical Texts: Researching the life of Abe no Seimei, the most famous Onmyoji, provides context on how these directional curses were identified and cured.