Choreizan: The Legendary Peak of Susanoo & Orochi
Japan is a country where the line between history and mythology is often blurred, nowhere more so than in Shimane Prefecture. Known as the “Land of the Gods,” Shimane is the setting for many of the nation’s founding myths. Among its misty peaks lies Choreizan (長霊山), a mountain that may not be as famous globally as Mount Fuji, but holds a profound significance in Japanese folklore. It is a place where ancient spirits are said to dwell, linked inextricably to the dramatic tale of the storm god Susanoo and the terrifying eight-headed serpent, Yamata no Orochi.
Introduction to the Spirit Mountain
Choreizan stands in the Oda city region of Shimane Prefecture, an area steeped in spiritual energy. Rising quietly within the Chugoku Mountains, it offers a rugged, serene landscape characterized by dense forests and commanding views of the Sea of Japan in the distance. While hikers appreciate the mountain for its natural beauty and the panoramic vistas from its summit, culture seekers are drawn to its name—literally translating to “Long Spirit Mountain” or “Chief Spirit Mountain.”
For the intrepid traveler, Choreizan offers an escape from the crowded tourist hubs of Tokyo and Kyoto, providing a rare glimpse into the animistic roots of Shinto and the raw, untamed nature of ancient Izumo.
Origins: A Landscape Shaped by Gods
The geography of the Shimane region (historically known as Izumo and Iwami) is central to its identity. The Hiikawa River, which winds through the land, is often metaphorically associated with the body of the giant serpent of legend. Choreizan overlooks this landscape, serving as a silent witness to the mythological age.
The name “Choreizan” suggests a place of repose for powerful spirits. In the context of local topography, it serves as a boundary marker in the spiritual geography of Western Japan. Unlike the manicured gardens of urban Japan, the origins of Choreizan are wild, dating back to a time when mountains were viewed not as recreational spots, but as sacred domains (shintai) where deities resided.
The Legend of Susanoo and the Serpent
The allure of Choreizan is anchored in the Legend of Yamata no Orochi, one of Japan’s most famous myths recorded in the 8th-century chronicles.
The Descent of Susanoo
According to the lore, Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the impetuous storm god and brother to the Sun Goddess Amaterasu, was banished from the heavens. He descended to the peak of Mount Sentsu (nearby in the same mountain range) and encountered an elderly couple weeping by the Hiikawa River. They explained that the Yamata no Orochi—a dragon with eight heads and eight tails, whose body stretched across eight valleys and eight peaks—had devoured seven of their daughters. Now, it was coming for the eighth, Princess Kushinada.
The Battle and the Burial
Susanoo struck a deal: he would slay the beast in exchange for the princess’s hand in marriage. He set a trap using eight vats of strong sake. When the serpent drank the alcohol and fell into a drunken stupor, Susanoo drew his sword and chopped the beast to pieces. From the serpent’s tail, he discovered the Kusanagi no Tsurugi, a legendary sword that became part of the Imperial Regalia of Japan.
Connection to Choreizan
Local folklore in Oda City often connects Choreizan to the aftermath of this battle. It is said that to prevent the vengeful spirit of the slain dragon from returning, Susanoo buried parts of the serpent or enshrined its spirit within the earth of this mountain. Thus, the mountain became the “Long Spirit” (Choreizan), a massive tumulus for the defeated god-beast. Standing on its slopes, one can almost hear the echoes of that primordial battle in the rustling of the wind.
Modern Culture and Significance
Today, Choreizan remains a potent “power spot”—a term Japanese locals use for locations overflowing with spiritual energy.
Iwami Kagura
The legend of Choreizan is kept alive vividly through Iwami Kagura, a traditional Shinto theatrical dance native to this region. The performance titled “Orochi” is the highlight of any Kagura program, featuring elaborate costumes where actors grapple with massive, coil-like serpent props. The people of the region view the mountain not just as geology, but as the stage for their cultural heritage.
Nature and Hiking
Culturally, the mountain is also a testament to nature worship. Local hiking clubs often maintain the trails, and small shrines can be found along the ascent, offering spaces for hikers to clap their hands in prayer, paying respects to the Kami (spirits) of the mountain.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Choreizan requires some preparation, as it is off the beaten path.
- Access: The most practical way to reach the trailheads is by rental car. Public transport in rural Shimane is infrequent. The mountain is located near Oda City.
- Best Time to Visit: Autumn (late October to November) is spectacular for the changing leaves (koyo), which turn the mountain into a fiery display of red and gold. Spring offers lush greenery and comfortable temperatures.
- Gear: Wear sturdy hiking boots. The trails can be steep and slippery after rain. Bring bear bells, as Asiatic black bears inhabit the Chugoku Mountains.
- Nearby Attractions: Combine your hike with a visit to the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) or the grand Izumo Taisha, one of Japan’s oldest and most important shrines.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology surrounding Choreizan and the Izumo region, the following historical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Compiled in 712 AD, this is the oldest extant chronicle in Japan and details the descent of Susanoo.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, offering a slightly different variation of the Orochi myth.
- Izumo no Kuni Fudoki: An ancient record specifically focused on the culture, geography, and oral traditions of the Izumo province.