Crossing the Boundary: The Mystery of the Sanzu River Toll
In every culture, the journey from the world of the living to the realm of the dead is fraught with peril. In Greek mythology, Charon demands an obol to ferry souls across the River Styx. In Japan, a strikingly similar tradition exists, deeply woven into the fabric of Buddhist belief and folklore: the Sanzu River (Sanzu-no-kawa) and the necessary toll to cross it.
For centuries, Japanese families have bid farewell to their loved ones by equipping them with the Rokumonsen—six coins to ensure a safe passage. But what lies behind this specific payment, and how does this ancient mythology continue to influence modern Japanese culture?
Origins of the Belief
The concept of the Sanzu River is not native to Japan’s indigenous Shinto spirituality, which generally views death as a source of impurity (kegare) and speaks of the land of Yomi. Instead, the Sanzu River was imported and adapted from Chinese Buddhist beliefs regarding the geography of the afterlife.
The tradition solidified during the Heian period (794–1185), as Pure Land Buddhism began to permeate the aristocracy and eventually the common populace. The river serves as a boundary between the physical world and the afterlife. According to tradition, the deceased cross this river on the seventh day after death, marking the first major trial in their journey toward judgment or reincarnation.
The Legend of the Three Paths
The name Sanzu-no-kawa translates literally to the “River of Three Crossings.” This name is not merely poetic; it describes the three distinct ways a soul might cross the water, determined entirely by their karma and deeds during life.
- The Bridge: Those who lived virtuous lives, free of heavy sin, are allowed to walk comfortably across a bridge adorned with seven precious jewels.
- The Ford: Those with a balance of good and bad karma must wade through a shallow, rapid ford. It is difficult, but passable.
- The Deep Waters: The true sinners face a horrific ordeal. They are forced to swim through deep, treacherous waters infested with dragons and serpents.
The Guardians of the Riverbank
Waiting at the riverbank are two terrifying figures: an old woman named Datsue-ba and an old man named Kene-o. Their role is to process the arrivals. If a soul arrives without the necessary toll or the spiritual merit to cross, Datsue-ba strips them of their clothes, and Kene-o hangs the clothes on a riverside branch to weigh the severity of their sins. To avoid the humiliation and the physical struggle of the crossing, the toll is essential.
The Toll: Rokumonsen (Six Coins)
To appease the guardians and pay for passage, the deceased are traditionally equipped with Rokumonsen (six coins). Historically, these were actual copper or bronze coins widely used during the Edo period.
Why six? The number corresponds to the Six Realms of Existence (Rokudo) in Buddhist cosmology: Hell, Hungry Ghosts, Beasts, Asuras (warriors), Humans, and Heavenly Beings. The six coins symbolize the Bodhisattva Jizo’s vow to save sentient beings in all six realms. By carrying the coins, the deceased is not just paying a ferryman; they are demonstrating their preparedness to navigate the cycle of rebirth.
In feudal times, it was said that samurai would sew six coins into the hem of their garments before battle. This was a grim acceptance of their fate—they were prepared to die at any moment and had their toll ready for the afterlife.
Modern Culture and Funeral Rites
While Japan is a hyper-modern society, the tradition of the Sanzu River toll remains surprisingly intact, though it has evolved.
In contemporary Japanese funerals, real currency is rarely placed inside the casket (hitsugi) because metal cannot be cremated. Instead, funeral homes provide paper replicas of the old Edo-period coins, often printed on a single sheet of paper or a small bag, placed around the deceased’s neck or in their hands. This ensures the tradition is honored without damaging the cremation equipment.
The concept also survives in language and pop culture. The Japanese idiom “Jigoku no sata mo kane shidai” translates roughly to “Even judgments in Hell depend on money,” a cynical nod to the necessity of the toll. You will also find references to the Sanzu River in anime and video games, often depicted as a misty, gloomy shore filled with red spider lilies (higanbana).
Traveler’s Tips: Where Myth Meets Reality
For travelers interested in seeing the physical manifestation of this mythology, there is one place that stands out above all others: Mount Osore (Osorezan) in Aomori Prefecture.
Considered one of the three most sacred places in Japan, Osorezan is a volcanic caldera that smells of sulfur and is comprised of a barren, rocky landscape that eerily resembles descriptions of the Buddhist hell.
- The Bridge: Visitors cross an arched red bridge to enter the temple grounds, symbolizing the boundary between worlds.
- Sanzu-no-kawa: A brook flowing from the crater lake (Lake Usori) is officially designated as the Sanzu River.
- Jizo Statues: You will see countless statues of Jizo, the guardian of travelers and children, often wearing red bibs and surrounded by pinwheels.
Note: Osorezan is closed during the winter due to heavy snow. The best time to visit is during the Itako Taisai festival in late July, where blind mediums (Itako) summon the spirits of the dead.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the Japanese afterlife, consider exploring the following texts:
- The Sutra of the Ten Kings (Jūōkyō): This text, central to Japanese Buddhism, details the journey of the dead and the trials they face, including the Sanzu River.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While primarily focusing on Shinto origins and the land of Yomi, this classical text provides context for pre-Buddhist views on death which eventually merged with the Sanzu mythology.
- Japanese Death Poems: A genre of poetry written by Zen monks and haiku poets on their deathbeds, often reflecting on the crossing to come.