The Red Waters of Chinoike Jigoku: Beppu’s Blood Pond Hell
When travelers imagine Japanese hot springs (onsen), they typically picture serene, clear waters surrounded by bamboo forests or snowy mountains. However, in the city of Beppu on the island of Kyushu, there exists a steaming, vermilion pool that looks less like a spa and more like a scene from the underworld. This is Chinoike Jigoku, or the “Blood Pond Hell.”
As one of the eight famous “Hells of Beppu” (Beppu Jigoku Meguri), this visually striking thermal pool offers a unique glimpse into the geological power of Japan and the cultural fascination with the infernal. It is a site where natural beauty meets ancient folklore, creating a travel experience that is as educational as it is photogenic.
Origins: The Science Behind the Blood
Despite its terrifying name and ominous appearance, the redness of Chinoike Jigoku is a purely natural phenomenon. Chinoike Jigoku is recognized as the oldest natural jigoku (hell) in Japan, with history suggesting it has been boiling for over 1,300 years.
The water temperature maintains a scorching average of 78°C (172°F), making it far too hot for bathing. The vibrant crimson hue is derived from the thermal mud at the bottom of the pond. This clay is rich in iron oxide (rust) and magnesium oxide. As the high-temperature subterranean water forces its way up through the earth’s crust, it mixes with this red clay, dissolving the minerals and dyeing the water the color of blood.
Periodically, the pond erupts with steam, sending clouds of white mist into the air that contrast sharply with the red surface, creating a surreal, other-worldly atmosphere that has captivated geologists and tourists alike.
Legend: A Portal to the Underworld
In Japanese culture, the concept of “Jigoku” (Hell) is derived from Buddhism, depicting realms of suffering where souls are punished. Because of the violent steam, the bubbling mud, and the terrifying colors of Beppu’s springs, ancient locals genuinely believed these areas were cursed or served as gateways to the underworld.
The history of Chinoike Jigoku is recorded in the Bungo Fudoki (an ancient record of the culture and geography of Bungo Province, now Oita Prefecture), compiled in the early 8th century. In these texts, the area was described as a wasteland where boiling water and steam made the land uninhabitable.
Folklore suggests that the red water was once used as a form of torture or execution in feudal times, where prisoners were boiled in the searing clay. While historical verification of these grim tales varies, the intense imagery helped solidify the name “Blood Pond Hell” in the cultural consciousness of Japan. Today, small statues of Jizo (the guardian deity of travelers and children) and frightening demonic figures (Oni) can be found around the site, paying homage to these infernal legends.
Modern Culture: Ointment and Art
In modern Japan, the fear of the Blood Pond has been replaced by appreciation and commerce. The very mud that gives the pond its terrifying color is actually harvested for its medicinal properties.
For centuries, locals have produced “Chinoike Nanko,” a red ointment made from the pond’s mineral-rich clay. This ointment is sold at the souvenir shop on-site and is renowned for treating skin diseases, including eczema, burns, and acne. It serves as a fascinating example of how the Japanese people adapted to their volatile environment, turning a “hellish” landscape into a source of healing.
The site has also become a major photogenic spot. The contrast of the red water against the lush green hillside behind it makes for spectacular photography, particularly in autumn when the leaves turn orange and red to match the water.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting
If you are planning to visit the Blood Pond Hell, here is what you need to know to make the most of your trip:
- The Jigoku Meguri Pass: Chinoike Jigoku is one of seven or eight “hells” (depending on the tour). It is highly recommended to buy the combination ticket (approx. 2,000 Yen), which grants access to all the major hells, rather than paying for each individually.
- Location: Chinoike Jigoku is located in the Shibaseki district, slightly separated from the other six hells in the Kannawa district. It sits right next to Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell), a famous geyser.
- Transportation: From JR Beppu Station, take Kamenoi Bus #26 or #26A to the Chinoike-Jigoku-mae bus stop. The ride takes about 40 minutes.
- Foot Bath: While you cannot submerge your body in the main pond, there is a designated ashi-yu (foot bath) fed by the cooled spring water. Bring a small towel so you can soak your feet in the healing waters while gazing at the red steam.
- Souvenirs: Don’t forget to check out the gift shop for the famous red clay ointment or bath salts that turn your bathtub at home a distinct shade of red.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical context of Beppu’s geothermal history and the legends surrounding it, the following texts provide foundational knowledge:
- Bungo Fudoki (豊後風土記): An 8th-century report on provincial culture and geography commissioned by the imperial court, which contains the earliest written records of the red thermal waters in this region.
- Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While covering broader history, this text provides context on how early Japan viewed natural phenomena and the spiritual significance of the land.
Visiting Chinoike Jigoku is a reminder of the Earth’s raw power. It is a place where the ground bleeds, steam rises, and history bubbles just below the surface.