Chinkasai Fire Festival: Miyajima’s Fiery New Year’s Eve
When travelers imagine New Year’s Eve in Japan, they often picture the solemn tolling of temple bells (joya no kane) or the quiet consumption of buckwheat noodles. However, on the mystical island of Miyajima in Hiroshima Prefecture, the transition to the new year is anything but quiet. It is a blazing spectacle of heat, light, and chanting known as the Chinkasai (镇火祭), or the Fire Prevention Festival.
Held annually on December 31st at the UNESCO World Heritage site of Itsukushima Shrine, this dramatic ritual combines ancient Shinto beliefs with a visceral display of community strength. As an expert travel blogger who has witnessed the sparks fly against the winter sky, I can attest that Chinkasai is one of Japan’s most captivating winter traditions.
The Origins of Fire Appeasement
The word Chinkasai literally translates to “Fire Appeasement Festival.” In a country where traditional architecture is predominantly wood and paper, fire has historically been the most feared disaster. The festival’s primary purpose is to pray for protection against fire in the coming year, both for the magnificent shrine itself and for the homes of the local townspeople.
The ceremony has roots dating back centuries, intertwined with the history of Itsukushima Shrine. While the shrine is famous for its “floating” Torii gate, the Chinkasai reminds us that the spiritual power of the island extends to the elements of nature themselves. Unlike fireworks displays which are for entertainment, this is a solemn, albeit raucous, religious rite intended to cleanse the community of misfortune.
The Legend of the Sacred Flame
The spiritual core of the Chinkasai revolves around the go-jinka, the sacred fire. According to local lore and shrine records, the fire used in this festival is not struck by a lighter or match. It is produced using a traditional fire-lighting box (hikiri-bako) and a mortar (hikiri-usu), maintaining a lineage of purity required for Shinto rituals.
Legend suggests that the ritual gained prominence during the visits of Retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa in the late Heian period, emphasizing the divine protection of the shrine. The fire is said to possess the power to ward off evil spirits and sickness. It is believed that if you take the embers of the Chinkasai fire home and use them to light your hearth or family altar, your household will be spared from fire-related disasters for the entire year. This belief transforms the festival from a mere spectator event into a participatory act of spiritual insurance.
Modern Culture: A Parade of Giant Torches
Today, the Chinkasai is a test of endurance and a celebration of local camaraderie. As the sun sets on New Year’s Eve, the atmosphere in Miyajima shifts from tourist bustling to anticipation.
The main event begins around 6:00 PM. Local men gather carrying taimatsu—pine torches. These are not small, hand-held candles; they are massive bundles of pine tied tightly together. The smallest are portable by one person, but the largest, known as O-taimatsu, can weigh over 500 kilograms (1,100 lbs) and require teams of men to hoist and carry.
The sacred fire is lit at the shrine and transferred to these giant torches. Once ignited, the participants hoist the burning bundles onto their shoulders. Shouting “Taimatsu, yoi, yoi!” (Torches, heave, ho!), they parade along the shoreline near the Mikasahama beach. The sight is breathtaking: sparks shower down like golden rain, illuminating the faces of the carriers and silhouetting the Great Torii gate against the dark Seto Inland Sea.
The chaotic beauty of the burning pine, the smell of resinous smoke, and the rhythmic chanting create a primal, electric atmosphere that serves as the perfect farewell to the old year.
Traveler’s Tips for Chinkasai
Attending the Chinkasai requires some preparation, as it is unlike typical sightseeing.
- Clothing is Crucial: Do not wear your expensive down jacket or anything made of nylon/synthetic materials. The sparks will fly, and they will melt holes in synthetic fabric. Wear heavy cotton or wool (like an old denim jacket) that is fire-resistant. Also, wear a hat to protect your hair.
- Timing: The fire lighting usually starts around 6:00 PM on December 31st. Arrive in the late afternoon to secure a viewing spot along the shore between the shrine and the ferry terminal.
- Accommodation: Hotels and Ryokans on Miyajima island book out months in advance for New Year’s. If you cannot stay on the island, don’t worry—the ferries to Miyajimaguchi on the mainland run frequently, and often extend hours for the New Year celebrations (check the JR and Matsudai ferry schedules specifically for NYE).
- Souvenirs: You can buy small votive pine sticks (mini taimatsu) to write your wishes on, which are then burned in the sacred fire.
- Hatsumode: After the fire festival, many people stay or return at midnight for Hatsumode (the first shrine visit of the year). If you have the stamina, staying until midnight offers a complete spiritual experience.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical context of Japanese fire festivals and Shinto rituals, the following texts and records offer deeper insight:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For foundational understanding of fire deities (such as Kagutsuchi) in Japanese mythology.
- Itsukushima Jinja Records: Local archival information regarding the specific rites of the shrine.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Provides context on imperial visits and the establishment of shrine rituals.
Witnessing the Chinkasai is a reminder that in Japan, tradition is not just preserved in museums—it is burned, shouted, and lived.