Tokanya: Japan’s Tenth Night Harvest Festival Guide
When travelers think of Japanese autumn, images of fiery maple leaves and the famous Tsukimi (harvest moon viewing) often come to mind. However, deep within the agrarian heartland of Eastern Japan, a lesser-known but culturally profound festival marks the true conclusion of the harvest season. This is Tokanya (十日夜), or the “Tenth Night,” a celebration grounded in gratitude, folklore, and the rhythmic cycle of nature.
While the fifteenth night (Jugoya) and the thirteenth night (Jusanya) are dedicated to viewing the moon, Tokanya is dedicated to the earth and the Rice Field God. Celebrated traditionally on the 10th day of the 10th lunar month (now typically observed around November 10th), it offers a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual life of rural Japan.
The Origins: Farewell to the Field God
The spiritual core of Tokanya revolves around the movement of the Ta-no-Kami (Rice Field God). According to Japanese Shinto-agrarian belief, the deity descends from the mountains in the spring to watch over the planting and growth of the rice. Once the harvest is successfully completed in late autumn, the god prepares to return to the mountains, transforming back into the Yama-no-Kami (Mountain God) to hibernate for the winter.
Tokanya serves as the send-off party for this deity. Unlike the moon-viewing festivals which focus on the sky, Tokanya is grounded in the soil. It is primarily observed in the Kanto and Koshin regions (Eastern and Central Japan), contrasting with the Inoko festival which is celebrated around the same time in Western Japan.
Historically, this day marked the end of the agricultural year. Farmers would perform rituals to ensure that the earth was firm and free of pests for the coming winter, thanking the land for its bounty.
Legend and Ritual: The Straw Gun and the Moles
One of the most unique and visually striking aspects of Tokanya is the ritual known as Waradeppo or Waradeppo-uchi.
Scaring the Moles
According to folklore, moles are the enemies of the crops during the winter, gnawing on the roots of radishes and other vegetables left in the ground. To combat this, children in rural villages fashion bundles of straw into club-like shapes, sometimes referred to as “straw guns” (waradeppo). They go door-to-door or walk through the fields, striking the ground rhythmically with these straw bundles.
As they beat the earth, they chant songs. While lyrics vary by region, a common chant translates to:
“Tokanya, Tokanya! The moles are crying! Give us big radishes, give us big crops!”
The pounding serves a dual purpose: physically compacting the soil to protect crops and symbolically driving away the pests through noise and energy.
The Ascent of the Scarecrow
Another charming legend associated with Tokanya is the retirement of the scarecrow (Kakashi). Since the harvest is over, the scarecrow’s job is done. In many regions, the scarecrow is regarded as a temporary vessel for the Rice Field God. On Tokanya, farmers take the scarecrows out of the fields (Kakashi-age) and place them in the garden or courtyard. They offer the scarecrow rice cakes, treating it as a guest of honor before it “returns” to the mountains.
Modern Culture: How Tokanya is Celebrated Today
In modern urban Japan, Tokanya has largely faded from public consciousness, overshadowed by imported holidays like Halloween. However, in rural prefectures like Nagano, Saitama, and parts of Tokyo’s outskirts, the tradition is kept alive by preservation societies and local shrines.
Culinary Traditions
Just as Tsukimi has its moon-viewing dumplings, Tokanya has its own signature foods. The most common offering is Botamochi (sweet rice balls covered in red bean paste) or plain mochi. It is believed that eating these sticky rice cakes on this night imparts strength and health, preventing one from catching a cold during the approaching winter.
In some households, three rice balls are placed in the shape of a pyramid as an offering to the moon and the departing Field God, symbolizing the final harvest thanksgiving.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the Festival
If you are in Japan in early to mid-November, you can still find pockets of this authentic culture.
- Timing is Key: The festival typically aligns with November 10th. However, check local shrine schedules as some may celebrate on the closest weekend.
- Where to Go: The Kanto region (Greater Tokyo) and the Chubu region (specifically Nagano Prefecture) are the best places. Look for events in Minami-Uonuma (Niigata) or rural shrines in Saitama Prefecture.
- Look for Straw: If you see bundles of straw placed decoratively near shrine entrances or in private gardens during November, you are likely witnessing a nod to Tokanya.
- Etiquette: If you encounter a Waradeppo ceremony, remember that while it involves children beating the ground, it is a religious ritual. Observe respectfully from a distance unless invited to participate.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Japanese agrarian spirituality and the Kami system, consider consulting the following texts:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For the fundamental mythology regarding the Kami of the mountains and fields.
- Yanagita Kunio’s Folklore Studies: Yanagita was a pioneer in recording Japanese rural customs, including the distinctions between field gods and mountain gods.
- Nihon Nenju Gyoji (Annual Events of Japan): Various encyclopedic entries detailing regional differences between Tokanya (East) and Inoko (West).
Tokanya offers a window into a Japan that values the soil as much as the soul. It is a quiet reminder that even in a high-tech society, the rhythms of the harvest still echo in the countryside.