Magic of Jugoya: Japan’s Moon Viewing Festival Guide
As the humid heat of the Japanese summer fades into the crisp, cooling air of autumn, the eyes of the nation turn upward. In Japan, the full moon is not merely a celestial body; it is a seasonal marker, a symbol of enlightenment, and the guest of honor at one of the country’s most poetic celebrations: Jugoya (the night of the 15th), commonly known as Tsukimi (Moon Viewing).
While the cherry blossoms of spring represent fleeting beauty, the harvest moon represents gratitude and abundance. For travelers lucky enough to be in Japan during this time, Jugoya offers a serene window into the soul of Japanese culture.
The Origins of Moon Viewing
Like many traditional Japanese customs, the roots of Tsukimi stretch back to ancient China. During the Tang Dynasty, viewing the moon was a popular pastime associated with writing poetry and contemplating the changing seasons. This practice, known as the Mid-Autumn Festival in China, crossed the sea to Japan during the Heian Period (794–1185).
Initially, this was an exclusive affair for the aristocracy. Courtiers would board dragon-headed boats on artificial ponds, drinking sake and reciting waka poetry. They would often gaze not at the moon itself, but at its reflection shimmering on the water’s surface, finding it more elegant and evocative.
By the Edo Period (1603–1867), the practice had filtered down to the common people. However, for the farming class, the meaning shifted from aesthetic appreciation to agricultural pragmatism. The autumn moon coincided with the harvest of taro and sweet potatoes, and soon after, rice. Thus, Jugoya became a thanksgiving festival, where farmers offered their first crops to the gods to express gratitude for a bountiful year and pray for the upcoming rice harvest.
The Legend: The Rabbit in the Moon
If you ask a Westerner what they see in the moon, they might say “the Man in the Moon.” However, if you ask a Japanese person, they will almost certainly describe a rabbit pounding mochi (rice cakes).
This imagery stems from a Buddhist Jataka tale known as The Old Man of the Moon. The story goes that the Man of the Moon came down to Earth disguised as a starving beggar. He encountered a monkey, a fox, and a rabbit. The monkey climbed trees to gather fruit for him, and the fox caught fish from the stream. The rabbit, however, had nothing to offer but grass.
Determined to help the beggar, the rabbit built a fire and threw itself into the flames, offering its own body as food. The beggar revealed his true celestial form, saved the rabbit from the fire, and carried it to the moon to live with him forever as a symbol of pure selflessness. Today, the shadows on the moon’s surface are said to look like the rabbit pounding rice in a mortar to make mochi.
Modern Culture and Traditions
In contemporary Japan, Jugoya is celebrated with specific decorations and foods that evoke the season. While few people write poetry on boats today, households and temples still create traditional displays.
Susuki Grass
Displayed in a vase, Susuki (Japanese pampas grass) is essential to Tsukimi. Its shape resembles rice plants, serving as a stand-in offering to the moon god. It is also believed to ward off evil spirits and protect the home from sickness during the coming winter.
Tsukimi Dango
Food is central to the celebration. Tsukimi Dango are small, white, round rice dumplings piled in a pyramid shape on a wooden stand. Traditionally, fifteen dumplings are displayed to represent the 15th night. They are simpler than typical sweets, often unflavored, but represent the beauty of the moon.
Seasonal Menus
Even fast-food chains join the festivities. It is a modern cultural phenomenon for restaurants, including McDonald’s Japan, to release “Tsukimi Burgers” in the autumn. These burgers feature a fried egg, with the bright yellow yolk representing the full moon. Similarly, Tsukimi Udon—noodle soup topped with a raw or poached egg—is a popular dish during this season.
Traveler’s Tips for Jugoya
If you are planning a trip to Japan in autumn, experiencing Jugoya is a must. Here is how to make the most of it.
- Check the Lunar Calendar: Jugoya falls on the 15th day of the 8th month of the traditional lunar calendar. In the Gregorian calendar, this usually lands in mid-September or early October. Dates change annually, so check ahead.
- Visit a Traditional Garden: The best places to view the moon are traditional landscape gardens. Sankeien Garden in Yokohama and Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu often extend their hours for special moon-viewing events, featuring lit-up architecture and live Koto (Japanese harp) performances.
- Temples and Shrines: Many major shrines, such as Ise Jingu or Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto, hold dedicated Tsukimi festivals with rituals, music, and dance offerings to the moon.
- Tokyo Tower: For a modern twist, Tokyo Tower usually hosts a special light-up event where the tower glows with a “moonlight” color scheme, offering a juxtaposition of ancient tradition and modern skyline.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter (Taketori Monogatari): A 10th-century Japanese folktale deeply connected to the moon and its celestial inhabitants.
- Konjaku Monogatarishu: A collection of tales from the late Heian period which contains versions of the Buddhist rabbit legend.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For historical context on the introduction of Chinese customs to the Japanese court.