Oni Out, Luck In: Experiencing Japan’s Setsubun Festival
If you find yourself in Japan during early February, you might witness a peculiar sight: children chasing adults wearing demon masks, throwing roasted soybeans at them while shouting, “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” This is the heart of Setsubun, one of Japan’s most spirited and interactive cultural events. Translating to “Demons out! Luck in!”, this chant encapsulates the desire to banish the misfortunes of the past year and welcome the coming spring with purity and good fortune.
While not a national holiday, Setsubun is culturally significant and offers travelers a unique window into Japanese folklore, community spirit, and seasonal cuisine. Here is everything you need to know about chasing away demons and inviting luck during your travels.
The Origins of the Seasonal Split
To understand Setsubun, one must look at the old lunisolar calendar. The word Setsubun literally means “seasonal division.” Historically, it referred to the day preceding the first day of any new season. However, in modern times, it almost exclusively refers to the day before Risshun (the beginning of spring), which usually falls on February 3rd or 4th.
In the ancient Japanese mindset, the junction between seasons was considered a dangerous time when the spirit world and the human world were closest. These transitional periods were believed to be when evil spirits, or oni, could easily slip into the human realm to cause sickness and disaster. Therefore, purification rituals were necessary to protect the community.
The specific roots of Setsubun trace back to the Heian period (794–1185) and a ritual called Tsuina or Oniyarai. Adopted from Chinese customs, this court ceremony involved a mystic cleansing of the Imperial Palace to ward off plagues and catastrophe before the Lunar New Year.
Legend: The Power of the Bean
Why throw soybeans? The practice, known as Mamemaki, is deeply rooted in wordplay and spiritual symbolism. In Japanese, the word for bean is mame (豆). However, phonetically, mametsu (魔滅) can mean “destroying demons.”
According to folklore, an evil spirit once appeared on Mount Kurama in Kyoto, terrorizing the locals. The deity Bishamonten instructed the people to throw roasted soybeans at the demon’s eyes (ma-me, or “demon eye”). The beans blinded the demon and drove it away. Thus, the roasted soybean became a holy weapon capable of exorcising evil energy.
The beans used today are known as fuku-mame (fortune beans). They must be roasted; raw beans could germinate, and if a bean thrown to banish a demon were to sprout, it would be considered a terrible omen, suggesting the evil has taken root.
Modern Culture and Celebrations
Today, Setsubun has evolved from a solemn court ritual into a fun, family-oriented event, though it retains its spiritual core.
The Home Ritual
In households across Japan, the father usually dons a plastic oni mask to play the villain. The children, armed with roasted soybeans, throw them at him shouting the famous chant: “Oni wa soto!” (Demons get out!) and “Fuku wa uchi!” (Luck come in!). Once the “demon” is driven outside, the door is slammed shut to keep him out. Afterward, everyone eats the number of beans corresponding to their age (plus one extra for good health in the coming year).
The Silent Sushi Roll
A newer tradition that has exploded in popularity is eating Eho-maki (lucky direction roll). Originating in Osaka, this is a thick uncut sushi roll containing seven ingredients (representing the Seven Lucky Gods). The rule is strict: you must eat the entire roll in silence while facing the year’s lucky compass direction, determined by the zodiac. Breaking silence or cutting the roll is said to sever your luck.
Temple Festivities
Temples and shrines host massive events where priests, local dignitaries, and sometimes sumo wrestlers or television celebrities stand on high platforms and throw packets of beans and prizes into the crowd. It creates a chaotic, joyous atmosphere as hundreds of people scramble to catch the lucky beans.
Traveler’s Tips for Setsubun
If you are planning to participate, here is how to make the most of the experience:
- Visit Major Temples: If you are in Tokyo, Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa or Zojoji Temple near Tokyo Tower host some of the biggest events. Narita-san Shinshoji near Narita Airport is famous for having sumo wrestlers participate in the bean-throwing.
- Buy the Gear: Convenience stores and supermarkets transform their shelves in late January. You can buy Eho-maki, roasted beans, and demon masks cheaply. It makes for a great, inexpensive souvenir.
- Check the Compass: If you plan to eat the sushi roll, check the specific lucky direction for the current year (it changes annually) to ensure you are facing the right way.
- Watch Your Step: Temple events can get crowded and rowdy. While it is a celebration, the scramble for beans can be intense. Keep an eye on your belongings and your footing.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical and mythological underpinnings of Japanese purification rituals, the following texts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While Setsubun itself evolved later, the concepts of purity (hare) and pollution (kegare) discussed in these ancient chronicles are the foundation of rituals like Mamemaki.
- The Engishiki: This 10th-century book of laws and regulations describes the Tsuina rituals performed in the Heian court, offering a direct historical link to modern Setsubun.
- Kojiki: Helps explain the pantheon of gods and the animistic worldview that allows for objects like beans to hold spiritual power.