Experience Setsubun: Japan’s Bean-Throwing Festival
If you find yourself in Japan during early February, you might witness a peculiar sight: children chasing adults wearing horned masks, pelting them with roasted soybeans while shouting at the top of their lungs. Far from a food fight, this is Setsubun, one of Japan’s most energetic and beloved traditional events. Marks the divide between winter and spring, Setsubun is a fascinating blend of ancient superstition, family bonding, and seasonal celebration.
What is Setsubun?
Setsubun (節分) literally translates to “seasonal division.” While the term originally referred to the day preceding any of the four distinct seasons, in modern Japan, it almost exclusively refers to the day before the start of spring according to the old lunar calendar. This usually falls on February 3rd (though occasionally on the 2nd or 4th).
The core purpose of the festival is purification. In Japanese folklore, the changing of seasons is a time when the spirit world draws close to the physical world, making it easier for evil spirits—or Oni—to enter. Setsubun is the ritual of driving away these spirits to ensure health, happiness, and good fortune for the coming year.
Origins of the Festival
The roots of Setsubun run deep, intertwining with imported Chinese traditions and indigenous Shinto beliefs. The practice stems from a ritual called Tsuina (or Oniyarai), which was introduced to Japan from China during the Heian Period (794–1185). Originally, this was a solemn court ceremony performed on New Year’s Eve to cleanse the palace of pestilence and malevolent spirits.
By the Muromachi Period (1336–1573), the ritual had evolved and spread from the aristocracy to the samurai class and eventually the common people. It was during this era that the use of soybeans became the primary weapon against the demons, replacing earlier tools like peach wood bows and reed arrows.
The Legend: Why Beans and Demons?
Why throw soybeans? In Japanese culture, grains are believed to possess spiritual power. However, the specific connection between beans and demons is often attributed to a clever play on words.
The Pun of “Mamemaki”
The Japanese word for bean is mame (豆). This sounds identical to the pronunciation of the characters for “demon eye” (魔目, ma-me). Furthermore, throwing the beans is said to destroy the demons, or mametsu (魔滅). Therefore, by throwing beans, you are symbolically destroying the evil eye of the demon.
The Appearance of the Oni
The demons chased away during Setsubun typically wear tiger-skin loincloths and possess bovine horns. This imagery is derived from Onmyodo (traditional Japanese cosmology). The “demon gate” (the direction from which bad luck comes) is located in the northeast, represented by the the Ox and the Tiger in the Chinese zodiac. Hence, the Oni takes on the fearsome attributes of both animals.
Modern Culture and Traditions
Today, Setsubun is celebrated in households, schools, and temples across the country. The most famous custom is Mamemaki (bean scattering).
Mamemaki Rituals
In a typical household, the father often dons an Oni mask to play the villain. The children, armed with fuku-mame (fortune beans—roasted soybeans), chase him out the door. The crucial chant during this process is:
“Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!”
(Demons out! Luck in!)
Once the demons are expelled, it is customary to eat the number of beans corresponding to your age, plus one extra for good luck in the coming year.
Eho-maki: The Lucky Sushi Roll
In recent decades, a newer tradition has taken Japan by storm: eating Eho-maki (lucky direction roll). This is a thick, uncut sushi roll containing seven ingredients (representing the Seven Lucky Gods).
To properly consume Eho-maki, one must:
- Face the year’s lucky compass direction (Eho), determined by the zodiac.
- Eat the entire roll in silence.
- Make a wish while eating.
Traveler’s Tips for Setsubun
If you are planning a trip to Japan in early February, Setsubun offers a unique window into local culture. Here is how to make the most of it:
- Visit a Major Temple: While household celebrations are private, temples and shrines host massive public events. Famous locations like Senso-ji in Tokyo or Naritasan Shinshoji in Chiba invite celebrities, sumo wrestlers, and politicians to throw packets of beans and prizes to the crowd. It is a chaotic, fun, and crowded experience.
- Buy a Mask: Convenience stores and 100-yen shops sell Setsubun sets including roasted beans and a paper Oni mask. They make excellent, lightweight souvenirs.
- Try the Sushi: You will find Eho-maki sold everywhere, from high-end department stores to 7-Eleven. Join the locals in facing the lucky direction for a silent lunch.
- Watch for “Demons”: In popular tourist areas like Kyoto, you might see Geisha or Maiko participating in Setsubun rituals, offering a rare photo opportunity.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep historical and mythological context of Japanese demons and purification rituals, the following texts provide essential background:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While it does not describe Setsubun as it is known today, it establishes the fundamental mythology of Japan.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Contains early references to the concepts of purification and the nature of spirits and deities that underpin festivals like Setsubun.
- The Engishiki: A 10th-century book of laws and regulations that details the Tsuina rituals performed at the Imperial Court, the direct ancestor of modern Setsubun.