The Cat’s Return: Unveiling the Magic of Neko no Ongaeshi
Japan’s relationship with felines is profound, oscillating between the mystical, the adorable, and the deeply spiritual. While many international fans immediately associate the phrase “The Cat’s Return” (Neko no Ongaeshi) with the whimsical 2002 Studio Ghibli film, the concept is rooted in centuries of folklore. For the culturally curious traveler, understanding the story behind the cat’s gratitude offers a fascinating window into Japanese values of reciprocity and animism.
From the beckoning porcelain statues in shop windows to the serene temples of Tokyo, the legend of the cat repaying a favor is alive and well. This guide explores the origins of this tale and how you can experience the land of the cats firsthand.
Origins of the “Ongaeshi”
To understand the story, one must first dissect the language. Neko means cat, and Ongaeshi refers to the repayment of a favor or a debt of gratitude. This concept of reciprocal kindness is a cornerstone of Japanese society, deeply embedded in social etiquette.
The literary trope of animals repaying humans for kindness appears frequently in Setsuwa (classic Buddhist anecdotes) and folklore. While cranes and foxes are common protagonists in these tales, cats hold a special, somewhat ambiguous place in Japanese history. Arriving from China and Korea around the mid-6th century—coinciding roughly with the introduction of Buddhism—cats were originally guardians of scriptures, protecting valuable texts from mice. Over time, their role shifted from utilitarian protectors to magical beings capable of shifting shapes and, crucially, remembering those who treated them well.
The Legend of Gotokuji
The most enduring legend associated with Neko no Ongaeshi serves as the origin story for the Maneki-neko (The Beckoning Cat). This tale takes us back to the early Edo period (17th century) and centers on a poverty-stricken temple in Setagaya, Tokyo.
The Feudal Lord and the Storm
According to the legend, the temple priest shared his meager food with his beloved pet cat, Tama. One afternoon, Ii Naotaka, a powerful feudal lord of the Hikone domain, was passing the temple on his way home from falconry. As a thunderstorm began to brew, Naotaka noticed a cat sitting at the temple gate. The cat raised its paw, seemingly beckoning the lord to enter the temple grounds.
Intrigued by the animal’s gesture, the lord dismounted his horse and approached the cat. At that precise moment, a bolt of lightning struck the tree where the lord had been standing just seconds before. Realizing the cat had saved his life, Naotaka became the patron of the temple, rebuilding it into the grand structure known today as Gotokuji.
Because the cat “returned the favor” of the priest’s care by securing a wealthy patron, the concept of the Maneki-neko—a symbol of good luck and gratitude—was born.
Modern Culture and Cinema
The ripple effects of this folklore are ubiquitous in modern Japan. The concept of Neko no Ongaeshi was immortalized globally by Hiroyuki Morita’s Studio Ghibli film of the same name. The movie captures the whimsical and sometimes eerie nature of the spirit world, where a high school girl saves a cat from traffic, only to find herself whisked away to the Cat Kingdom to marry a feline prince.
Beyond cinema, the cultural footprint is visible in everyday life:
- Commercial Prosperity: You will find the Maneki-neko in almost every traditional shop in Japan. A raised left paw invites customers, while a raised right paw invites wealth.
- Pop Culture: Characters like Hello Kitty and Doraemon stem from this deep cultural affection for felines.
- Superstition: Even today, many Japanese people believe that treating a stray cat kindly will bring good karma, a modern interpretation of the ancient ongaeshi.
Traveler’s Tips: Chasing the Cat in Japan
If you want to walk the path of the cat legend, here are the essential stops for your itinerary.
1. Gotokuji Temple (Tokyo)
This is the ultimate pilgrimage site for fans of The Cat’s Return. Located in the Setagaya ward, the temple grounds are filled with thousands of white Maneki-neko statues of varying sizes. It is a surreal and photogenic spot that feels worlds away from the bustle of Shinjuku.
- Access: Take the Odakyu Line to Gotokuji Station, then walk about 10 minutes.
- Tip: You can purchase your own cat statue at the temple office, make a wish, and leave it there, or take it home as a souvenir.
2. Imado Shrine (Asakusa)
Another contender for the origin of the Maneki-neko, Imado Shrine is popular among those seeking love. The cats here are often depicted in pairs, symbolizing a “return” of affection and a successful match.
3. Tashirojima (Cat Island)
For a more immersive experience, venture to Miyagi Prefecture to visit Tashirojima. Here, cats outnumber human residents. The locals believe feeding the cats brings wealth and good fortune, embodying the living spirit of Neko no Ongaeshi. There is even a cat shrine in the center of the island.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in diving deeper into the historical and mythological context of animals in Japan, the following texts are highly recommended:
- Nihon Ryoiki (Record of Miraculous Events in Japan): The oldest collection of Japanese Buddhist setsuwa, featuring early tales of karmic retribution and animal gratitude.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): While primarily a historical record, it provides context on the importation of aspects of continental culture, including the role of animals in the Imperial court.
- Kaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things by Lafcadio Hearn: A classic collection that touches upon the mystical and sometimes ghostly nature of Japanese folklore.