Banishing the Oni: Understanding Japan’s Risshun Spring Festival
If you find yourself in Japan during early February, you might witness a peculiar sight: children and adults alike throwing roasted soybeans out of their front doors or at masked figures, shouting enthusiastically. This is not a food fight, but a profound cultural ritual known as Setsubun, which takes place on the eve of Risshun, the traditional start of spring.
While the cherry blossoms get all the international fame, Risshun and the associated “Oni” (demon) rituals represent a vital spiritual cleansing. It is a time to cast away the stagnation of winter and invite the warmth and fortune of the coming season. For the cultural traveler, understanding the “Oni of Spring” offers a fascinating glimpse into the Japanese psyche and its relationship with nature and the spirit world.
Origins: The Lunar New Year and Spiritual Cleansing
To understand Risshun, one must look back to the lunar calendar. Historically, the beginning of spring marked the start of the New Year. Just as many cultures engage in “spring cleaning” to tidy their homes, the Japanese developed rituals to tidy the spiritual realm.
The roots of these traditions can be traced back to the Heian period (794–1185). The ritual known as Tsuina was originally introduced from China. It involved a dramatic exorcism performed at the Imperial Court to drive away pestilence and malevolent spirits before the year turned. Over centuries, what was once an exclusive courtly ceremony trickled down to the samurai class, shrines, and eventually, the common households of Japan, evolving into the bean-throwing festival we see today.
The Legend of the Oni
Central to this festival is the Oni. In Japanese folklore, Oni are ogres or demons, typically depicted with red or blue skin, wild hair, and horns. They represent bad luck, illness, and general malevolence. The concept is that as the seasons change, the barrier between the spirit world and the human world thins, allowing these negative entities to slip through.
Why Beans?
The weapon of choice against these formidable demons is surprisingly humble: the roasted soybean (fuku-mame). The logic lies in wordplay and spiritual symbolism. In Japanese, the word for bean (mame) sounds similar to the word for “destroying evil” (mametsu). Furthermore, soybeans are considered tough and full of life energy.
The ritual is called Mamemaki. The thrower shouts the famous incantation: “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (Demons out! Fortune in!). It is a symbolic act of purging the home of the invisible Oni that cause sickness and misfortune, ensuring a fresh start for Risshun.
Modern Culture and Celebrations
Today, the transition to Risshun is a beloved cultural event rather than a solemn religious rite. It is celebrated with vigor across the archipelago.
The Household Ritual
In homes, the father (or the person born in the corresponding zodiac year) usually dons an Oni mask. The children then gleefully pelt him with beans until he “flees” the house. Afterward, everyone eats the number of beans corresponding to their age (plus one extra for good luck in the coming year).
Ehomaki Sushi Rolls
Another modern tradition that has exploded in popularity is eating Ehomaki. These are thick sushi rolls containing seven ingredients (representing the Seven Lucky Gods). On the evening of Setsubun, one must eat the entire roll in silence while facing the year’s “lucky direction” (eho). This ensures that the luck invited in during Risshun stays within the body.
Temple Festivals
Major temples, such as Senso-ji in Tokyo or Naritasan Shinshoji, host massive events. Celebrities, sumo wrestlers, and politicians often stand on high platforms, throwing packets of beans and prizes to roaring crowds. It is a chaotic, joyous celebration of community and hope.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing the Spring Oni
If you are planning a trip to Japan, aiming for the Risshun window (usually February 3rd or 4th) is highly recommended. Here is how to make the most of it:
- Visit a Major Shrine: Head to Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto or Zojoji Temple in Tokyo. Arrive early, as the crowds for the bean-throwing events can be massive.
- Buy a Mask: Convenience stores and 100-yen shops sell Oni masks and roasted beans during this season. They make for excellent, lightweight souvenirs.
- Try Ehomaki: Visit a konbini (convenience store) or department store basement to pick up an Ehomaki roll. Using a compass app to find the lucky direction adds a fun interactive element to your dinner.
- Respect the Cold: Risshun marks the “beginning” of spring, but strictly in a solar term sense. In reality, early February is often the coldest time of the year in Japan. Dress warmly!
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in diving deeper into the mythology of Oni and the ancient roots of Japanese festivals, the following texts and resources provide excellent historical context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While not about Setsubun specifically, this 8th-century text establishes the foundational myths of Japanese spirits and gods.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Offers historical accounts of early court rituals, including the precursors to the Tsuina exorcisms.
- Japanese Demon Lore: Oni from Ancient Times to the Present by Noriko T. Reider: An excellent academic look at the evolution of the Oni figure in culture.
By banishing the Oni of winter, travelers and locals alike step into the light of Risshun, ready for the cherry blossoms that lie just around the corner.