Exploring Omukade: The Giant Centipede of Mt. Mikami
Japan is a land steeped in mythology, where spirits known as yokai inhabit every river, mountain, and shadow. While some are mischievous or benign, others are creatures of pure nightmare. Among the most fearsome is the Omukade (大百足), a colossal, man-eating centipede said to be large enough to wrap its body around an entire mountain.
For travelers interested in Japanese folklore and the darker side of cultural history, the legend of the Omukade offers a fascinating glimpse into the samurai code, ancient fears of nature, and the heroics of the Heian period.
Introduction to the Monster
The name Omukade translates literally to “Great Centipede.” In Japanese folklore, centipedes are often associated with death, poison, and the underworld due to their venomous bite and subterranean habits. However, the Omukade is no ordinary insect. Legends describe it as having a dark body that glimmers like armor, glowing orange legs that resemble distant torches, and a size so immense that it spans mountains valleys.
While dragons are often revered as water deities in Japan, the Omukade is their natural enemy—a monstrous earth element that terrorizes even the gods of the lake.
Origins and Symbolism
Why a centipede? In medieval Japan, the centipede was a complex symbol. On one hand, it was feared for its poison. On the other, it was respected by warriors. Centipedes cannot move backward; they only move forward. Consequently, they became a symbol of martial determination and “never retreating” on the battlefield, often appearing on samurai crests and helmet ornaments.
Furthermore, centipedes were closely associated with mines and mineral wealth. Old Japanese gold mines were often called mukade-ana (centipede holes) because the tunnels resembled the creature’s shape. Thus, the Omukade is sometimes interpreted not just as a monster, but as a guardian of hidden earth treasures or a manifestation of the dangers of mining.
The Legend of Tawara Toda
The most famous tale involving the Omukade is the story of Fujiwara no Hidesato, a 10th-century warrior also known as Tawara Toda.
The Encounter at Seta Bridge
According to the legend, Hidesato was crossing the Seta Bridge over Lake Biwa in Omi Province (modern-day Shiga Prefecture). Upon the bridge lay a massive, terrifying giant serpent. While other travelers fled in terror, the brave Hidesato simply stepped over the beast without breaking his stride.
That night, the serpent transformed into a beautiful woman—the Dragon Princess of Lake Biwa. She explained that she had been testing men to find one brave enough to help her. Her family was being tormented by the Omukade, which lived on nearby Mount Mikami. Every night, the giant centipede would descend from the mountain to feast on her kin.
The Battle on Mount Mikami
Moved by her plight, Hidesato agreed to help. He armed himself with a strong bow and arrows and waited. As night fell, the sky glowed with an eerie light. Looking toward Mount Mikami, he saw what looked like a procession of thousands of torches descending the slope. It was the legs of the Omukade.
Hidesato fired his first arrow. It struck the beast’s armored shell but bounced off uselessly. He fired a second arrow, which also failed to pierce the creature’s chitin. He had only one arrow left. Remembering an old superstition that human saliva is toxic to centipedes, Hidesato spat on the tip of his final arrow.
He drew his bow and fired. The arrow pierced the Omukade’s brain, and the light of its legs extinguished instantly as the massive beast crashed dead to the earth.
The Rewards
In gratitude, the Dragon Princess presented Hidesato with legendary gifts, including a bag of rice that never emptied (giving him the nickname “Tawara Toda” or “Rice Bag Toda”) and a roll of silk that never ran out.
Modern Culture and Media
The Omukade remains a popular figure in modern Japanese pop culture, often serving as a boss character in video games or a formidable antagonist in anime.
- Anime: Fans of InuYasha may recall giant centipede demons appearing as the very first antagonists of the series, drawing directly from this lore.
- Video Games: In the Nioh and Sekiro series, which are heavily influenced by Japanese mythology, centipedes appear as sources of corruption or immortality, often infesting enemies.
- Tattoos: The centipede remains a popular motif in Irezumi (traditional Japanese tattooing), symbolizing ferocity and the refusal to retreat.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Legend
If you want to walk in the footsteps of Tawara Toda, you should head to Shiga Prefecture, located just east of Kyoto.
1. The Seta Tang-Bridge (Seta no Karahashi)
This is the location where the legend begins. While the current bridge is a modern reconstruction (the original has been destroyed and rebuilt many times throughout history), it remains one of the “Three Famous Bridges of Japan.” Standing over the water at twilight, it is easy to imagine the Dragon Princess waiting for a hero.
2. Mount Mikami (Omi-Fuji)
Known as “Omi-Fuji” because its shape resembles a mini Mount Fuji, this is the legendary home of the Omukade. It is a popular hiking spot today. The hike is relatively short (about 45 minutes to an hour) and offers a panoramic view of Lake Biwa. While you won’t find a giant centipede today, the atmosphere of the forested mountain retains a mystical quality.
3. Hidesato’s Legacy
Various shrines around Lake Biwa are dedicated to the dragon deities, and local museums often feature ukiyo-e woodblock prints depicting the famous battle.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in reading the original accounts of Japanese mythology and the exploits of Fujiwara no Hidesato, the following texts are essential:
- The Taiheiki (Chronicle of Great Peace): A 14th-century historical epic that contains detailed accounts of Hidesato’s lineage and the Omukade legend.
- Konjaku Monogatarishu: A collection of tales from the late Heian period that catalogs various supernatural encounters.
- Tokaido Meisho no Uchi: While not a text, this series of woodblock prints often depicts the Seta Bridge and the legend associated with it.
While the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki establish the foundational mythology of Japan’s gods and early yokai, medieval texts like the Taiheiki are where the heroic monster-slaying legends of the samurai truly come to life.