Neri-aruki: The Soul of Japanese Festivals in Motion
When travelers imagine Japan, they often picture the serene stillness of a Zen garden or the quiet reverence of a temple hall. However, the true heartbeat of Japanese culture is frequently found in motion. This is the world of Neri-aruki (練り歩き), a term that translates to “parading” or “walking in a procession.” Far more than a simple walk, Neri-aruki is a ritualistic performance that bridges the gap between the spiritual and the mundane, bringing history, mythology, and community spirit onto the streets.
From the frenetic energy of portable shrine bearers to the mesmerizing, slow-motion gait of high-ranking courtesans, Neri-aruki represents the collective soul of a community on display. For the cultural traveler, witnessing one of these processions is an invitation to see Japan not as a museum exhibit, but as a living, breathing entity.
The Origins of the Sacred Walk
The concept of Neri-aruki is deeply rooted in Japan’s agrarian past and the syncretic blend of Shinto and Buddhism. Historically, the primary purpose of a procession was the Shinko-sai (Divine Procession). In the Shinto faith, Kami (gods) reside in shrines, separated from the daily impurities of human life. However, during festivals (Matsuri), the Kami are transferred into a Mikoshi (portable shrine) and paraded through the town.
This act of Neri-aruki serves two purposes: Tama-furi (shaking the spirit to invigorate it) and purification. By parading the deity through the streets, the community is blessed, and malicious spirits are warded off. In the Heian period (794–1185), these processions became more elaborate, evolving from simple religious rites into displays of political power and aristocratic elegance, heavily influenced by court culture.
Legends and Folklore: The Night Parade
While most Neri-aruki are celebrations of light and divinity, Japanese folklore offers a shadowy counterpart that highlights the cultural significance of the procession. One cannot discuss Japanese parades without mentioning the Hyakki Yako (The Night Parade of One Hundred Demons).
According to legend, on warm summer nights, supernatural yokai—monsters, spirits, and animated household objects—would rise and march through the streets in a terrifying Neri-aruki of their own. It was said that any human who witnessed this spectral procession would die or vanish, unless protected by specific sutras.
This folklore underscores the power attributed to the act of processing. Whether it is the gods blessing the land or demons claiming the night, the formation of a line moving through a village changes the spiritual state of that space. It turns a public road into a sacred (or cursed) channel, altering the reality of those who witness it.
Modern Culture: From Mikoshi to Oiran
Today, Neri-aruki manifests in various forms across Japan, blending ancient tradition with modern spectacle. The practice has evolved into distinct categories, each with its own atmosphere and rules.
The Mikoshi Procession
This is the most common form seen at local festivals. It is characterized by energy and noise. Participants, often wearing happi coats and tabi boots, shoulder the heavy palanquin. The walk is not a straight march; it involves swaying, jostling, and chanting “Wasshoi!” This aggressive movement is intended to amuse the Kami inside and demonstrate the vitality of the neighborhood.
The Oiran Dochu
In stark contrast to the chaotic Mikoshi parade is the Oiran Dochu (Procession of Courtesans). Historically performed in the pleasure quarters of Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto, these reenactments feature women dressed as high-ranking courtesans (Oiran). The highlight is the Hachimonji (figure-eight) walking style. The Oiran wears towering koma-geta (wooden clogs) and performs a complex, slow-motion step, swinging her legs outward in a semi-circle. It is a hypnotic display of balance and grace, transforming the street into a stage of exquisite beauty.
Dashi and Yatai Floats
In cities like Kyoto (Gion Matsuri) and Takayama, the Neri-aruki involves massive wooden floats pulled by teams of men. These processions are solemn and majestic, often accompanied by Gagaku (court music) or Ohayashi (festival music), showcasing centuries-old craftsmanship in motion.
Traveler’s Tips for Viewing Processions
To fully appreciate a Neri-aruki event, travelers should be aware of specific etiquette and logistics. These events draw massive crowds, so preparation is key.
- Arrive Early: For famous processions like the Jidai Matsuri in Kyoto or the Oiran Dochu in Asakusa, prime viewing spots are taken hours in advance. Bring a portable mat.
- Respect the Space: Never cross the path of a procession. In religious contexts, the path is sacred ground while the deity is passing. Crossing it is considered highly disrespectful and bad luck.
- High Ground Rule: In traditional Shinto custom, it is rude to look down upon the Kami. While modern high-rises make this difficult to enforce, avoid climbing fences or statues to get a better view.
- Photography: Photos are generally encouraged, but avoid using flash, especially during the Oiran Dochu, as it can startle the participants who are balancing on high clogs. Always ask permission before photographing individual participants before or after the parade.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical and mythological foundations of Japanese processions, the following texts and resources provide essential context:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Contains early references to the movement of deities and the establishment of sacred boundaries.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Offers detailed accounts of imperial processions and the integration of ritual into statecraft.
- The Tale of Genji (Genji Monogatari): Provides insight into the Heian-era court processions (Aoi Matsuri) that set the standard for aesthetic Neri-aruki.
- Japanese Festivals: Annual Rites and Observances: A comprehensive guide to understanding the seasonal context of these parades.