The Kamisama Shamans: Aomori’s Mystical Spirit Mediums
When travelers think of Japanese spirituality, images of serene Kyoto temples or the grand Torii gates of Miyajima often come to mind. However, in the snowy, northern reaches of the Tohoku region—specifically Aomori Prefecture—a more primal, animistic form of faith continues to thrive. Here, the boundary between the human world and the spirit realm is thin, guarded and bridged by figures known locally as the Kamisama.
While the word Kami usually refers to gods or deities in Shinto, in the Tsugaru dialect, a “Kamisama” (or sometimes Gomisama) refers to a living human practitioner—a shaman or spirit medium. Unlike the famous blind Itako of Mount Osore, Kamisama are often sighted women who act as counselors, healers, and conduits for the divine.
Origins of the Tsugaru Shamans
The tradition of the Kamisama is deeply rooted in the harsh climate and isolated geography of northern Japan. Historically, the Tsugaru region developed a unique blend of folk Shinto, Buddhism, and indigenous shamanism.
The origins of a Kamisama typically begin with a phenomenon known as kamidari (divine possession) or a shamanic sickness. Unlike those who train to become priests, a Kamisama is usually “chosen” by a spirit against their will. Historically, a woman suffering from an unexplained illness or psychosis would consult an elder shaman. If the diagnosis was spiritual possession, the woman would undergo rigorous ascetic training—often involving cold water ablutions and fasting—to learn how to control the spirit entering her body. Once mastered, she becomes a vessel, serving her community by offering advice on harvest, health, and family matters.
While the Itako are famous for kuchiyose (summoning the dead), Kamisama are often more focused on channeling specific guardian deities, such as Inari (the fox god) or Ryujin (the dragon god), to perform healings and divinations.
The Legend of Oshira-sama
Central to the practice of many Kamisama is the worship of Oshira-sama, a pair of bamboo dolls that represent a powerful household deity. The legend behind these dolls is one of Japan’s most heartbreaking folktales, recorded famously in the Tono Monogatari.
The story tells of a lonely farmer’s daughter who fell deeply in love with her family’s horse. When her father discovered this forbidden union, he killed the horse in a rage and hung its hide from a mulberry tree. The grief-stricken daughter clung to the hide, and miraculously, both she and the horse’s spirit ascended to heaven.
Today, the Kamisama acts as the custodian of the Oshira-sama dolls. During rituals, the shaman holds the dolls and makes them “dance,” entering a trance to relay messages from the deity. This ritual is believed to protect the household, ensure good health, and cure ailments, particularly those related to women and children.
Modern Culture and Practices
In modern Japan, the number of practicing Kamisama is dwindling, yet they remain a vital part of the cultural fabric in Aomori. They are not merely relics of the past; they function as spiritual therapists for locals.
One of the most significant annual events is the Oshira-sama Asobase (Make Oshira-sama Play), held usually in January. During this ceremony, the Kamisama chants sutras and manipulates the dolls in a trance-like dance. Families bring their own dolls to the shaman to have them “recharged” with spiritual energy.
Furthermore, the Akakura Mountain Shrine area remains a stronghold for these practices. Here, the separation between Buddhism and Shinto is blurred, and ascetics still perform cold-water ablutions under waterfalls. For the local people, visiting a Kamisama is often as practical as visiting a doctor; it is a way to resolve the “unseen” causes of misfortune.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting a Shaman
For cultural travelers and anthropologists, witnessing these traditions is a rare privilege. However, this is not a tourist attraction, and strict etiquette applies.
- Language Barrier: Most Kamisama speak the Tsugaru-ben dialect, which can be difficult even for native Japanese speakers to understand. Hiring a local guide or translator is absolutely essential.
- Respect and Privacy: Photography is often prohibited during rituals. Always ask for permission before taking photos of the shaman or the altar.
- Offerings (Otakiage): It is customary to provide a cash offering wrapped in a special envelope. Prices vary, so consult with your guide beforehand.
- Where to Go: The most accessible time to see these traditions is during the Itako Taisai festival at Mt. Osore (July) or by visiting the Akakura Mountain Shrine area, though appointments are usually required for private sessions.
The world of the Kamisama is a window into the Japan that existed before modernization—a place where nature, spirits, and humans coexist in a delicate, mystical balance.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Tono Monogatari (Tales of Tono) by Kunio Yanagita – A seminal collection of Japanese folk legends, including the story of Oshira-sama.
- Carmen Blacker, “The Catalpa Bow: Essays on Shamanistic Practices in Japan” – An in-depth academic look at Japanese shamanism.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan) – For context on the earliest roots of Japanese interaction with the divine (Kami).