Chinowa-kuguri: Japan’s Summer Purification Ritual
If you visit a Shinto shrine in Japan towards the end of June, you might encounter a peculiar sight: a massive ring made of woven grass standing tall at the entrance or in front of the main hall. Visitors, ranging from businessmen in suits to children in yukata, pause to bow before stepping through it in a winding, figure-eight pattern. This is Chinowa-kuguri, a centuries-old purification ritual designed to wash away the sins and impurities of the past six months and pray for health in the steamy summer ahead.
Introduction to Nagoshi no Harae
In the Shinto calendar, the year is divided into two halves. While New Year’s is a time for fresh beginnings, June 30th marks the halfway point, celebrated with a ceremony called Nagoshi no Harae (Summer Purification). The centerpiece of this ceremony is the Chinowa, a large ring traditionally made of chigaya (cogon grass).
The concept rests on the Shinto belief in kegare—a state of impurity or “withered spirit” caused by illness, bad luck, or unintentional transgressions. By performing Chinowa-kuguri, or “passing through the grass ring,” people cleanse their bodies and spirits, resetting themselves for the remainder of the year.
The Legend of Somin Shorai
Why grass? And why a ring? The origins of this ritual are deeply rooted in Japanese folklore, specifically a legend involving the deity Susanoo-no-Mikoto. While the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki chronicle the divine exploits of Susanoo, the specific story of the grass ring is found in the Bingo no Kuni Fudoki (an ancient record of provincial culture).
According to the legend, Susanoo was traveling disguised as a weary human traveler seeking shelter. He first visited the home of Kotan Shorai, a wealthy man, but was turned away due to the man’s greed. Susanoo then visited Kotan’s brother, Somin Shorai. Despite being incredibly poor, Somin welcomed the stranger, offering him his meager food and a place to sleep.
Years later, Susanoo revealed his true identity. To reward Somin’s kindness and protect his family from a coming plague, Susanoo instructed him to weave a ring of woven grass (chinowa) and wear it around his waist. When the epidemic swept through the land, only Somin Shorai’s family survived. Over centuries, the small waist-ring evolved into the massive standing structures we see at shrines today, but the intent remains the same: protection against disease and misfortune.
How to Perform the Ritual
Participating in Chinowa-kuguri is an immersive cultural experience. However, there is a specific etiquette to follow. It is not as simple as walking straight through.
- First Bow: Stand in front of the ring and bow once.
- Left Turn: Step through the ring leading with your left foot, turn left, and circle back to the front.
- Second Bow: Stand in front of the ring again and bow.
- Right Turn: Step through leading with your right foot, turn right, and circle back to the front.
- Third Bow: Bow once more.
- Left Turn (Again): Step through with the left foot again, turn left, and circle back.
- Final Passage: Bow one last time, then step through the ring and proceed straight to the altar to offer your prayers.
This figure-eight movement represents the infinity symbol and is believed to thoroughly shake off impurities. At some shrines, visitors recite a specific poem or chant while walking: “Harae-tamae, Kiyome-tamae” (Please purify, please cleanse).
Modern Culture and Seasonal Treats
Today, Chinowa-kuguri is a beloved sign of summer. It signals the coming of the rainy season and the intense heat that follows. Historically, epidemics were common in the humid Japanese summer, making this ritual vital for public anxiety.
In Kyoto, the ritual is often accompanied by eating Minazuki, a triangular sweet made of white uiro (steamed rice cake) topped with red azuki beans. The white base represents ice (to cool the summer heat), and the red beans are believed to ward off evil spirits. It provides a gastronomic end to the spiritual cleansing.
Traveler’s Tips
If you are planning a trip to Japan in late June or early July, keep an eye out for these grass rings.
- When to Go: The official date is usually June 30th, but many major shrines set up the Chinowa a week or two in advance and keep them up until early July.
- Where to Go:
- Kyoto: Kitano Tenmangu and Yoshida Shrine are famous for their atmosphere.
- Tokyo: Kanda Myojin and Hie Shrine offer accessible locations in the city center.
- Nara: Omiwa Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest, holds a particularly solemn ceremony.
- Etiquette: Watch the locals first. If there is a line, wait patiently. Shinto is practiced with quiet respect; avoid loud talking while performing the figure-eight circles.
Walking through the Chinowa is more than just a photo opportunity; it is a chance to participate in a living history that connects the modern traveler to the ancient myths of Susanoo and the resilient spirit of the Japanese people.
Sources & Further Reading
- Bingo no Kuni Fudoki: For the specific legend of Somin Shorai and the origin of the grass ring.
- Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) & Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For the broader history and mythology of the deity Susanoo-no-Mikoto.
- Engishiki: Ancient Japanese governmental regulations that detail Shinto rites, including the Great Purification (Oharae).