Doman Seman: The Mystical Protection of Japan’s Ama Divers
If you journey to the coastal cliffs of the Ise-Shima region in Mie Prefecture, you may witness a tradition that has survived for over two millennia. Here, the Ama (sea women) free-dive into the ocean depths to harvest abalone, turban shells, and pearls. Clad in traditional white outfits, these divers wear more than just fabric to protect them from the perilous sea. Embroidered on their hoods (iso-zukin) and tunics in dark purple or black thread are two peculiar geometric shapes: a five-pointed star and a lattice grid.
These symbols are known collectively as Doman Seman. Far from being mere decoration, they are powerful talismans rooted in ancient Japanese sorcery, designed to ward off evil spirits and ensure the diver returns safely to the surface.
Origins of the Symbols
The Doman Seman is actually a combination of two distinct symbols, each attributed to a legendary figure from the Heian period (794–1185) associated with Onmyodo (The Way of Yin and Yang).
The Seman (The Star)
The five-pointed star is called the Seman. It represents the Seimei Kikyo (Seimei Bellflower), the crest of Abe no Seimei, Japan’s most celebrated Onmyoji (yin-yang master). In the context of the Ama divers, the star is drawn with a single stroke of the pen (or thread) without lifting the hand. This “unicursal” nature is crucial; it means the shape has no beginning and no end. For the diver, this symbolizes a safe return: just as the line returns to its starting point, the diver will return from the ocean floor to the land.
The Doman (The Lattice)
The grid pattern, consisting of five horizontal lines and four vertical lines, is called the Doman. It is associated with Ashiya Doman, a rival sorcerer to Abe no Seimei. The lattice represents nine squares, referencing the Kuji-in (Nine Syllable Seals) used in esoteric Buddhism and Shugendo to ward off danger. Visually, the grid creates many intersections, which the Ama interpret as “many eyes” watching out for them. These eyes are believed to keep a vigilant watch against sharks, sea monsters (yokai), and malevolent spirits.
The Legend: A Duel of Sorcerers
The pairing of these two symbols is fascinating because, historically and mythologically, Abe no Seimei and Ashiya Doman were fierce rivals.
According to Japanese folklore and texts like the Uji Shui Monogatari, Seimei was a master employed by the Imperial Court, while Doman was a rough, wandering diviner from the Harima province. Legends tell of magical duels between the two, ranging from guessing the contents of a box to battles involving shikigami (summoned spirits).
Despite their antagonism in legend, the Ama divers of Ise-Shima adopted both of their insignias. This pragmatic approach—combining the power of the greatest court wizard with the raw, earthy magic of the wandering ascetic—creates a dual layer of spiritual armor. The Seman ensures the return, while the Doman keeps watch. Together, they balance the celestial and the terrestrial.
Modern Culture and Significance
Today, the Doman Seman remains a vital part of the cultural identity of Toba and Shima cities. While modern wetsuits have largely replaced the traditional white cotton outfits for actual diving, the symbols are still worn on tenugui (towels) and amulets.
The Rise of “Ama Chic”
In recent years, the design has transcended its utilitarian roots. You can find Doman Seman patterns on modern accessories, pearl jewelry, and stationery sold in Mie Prefecture. The symbols have also found their way into pop culture, appearing in anime and manga that feature Onmyoji themes, keeping the legacy of Seimei and Doman alive for a younger generation.
However, for the remaining traditional Ama divers, the meaning is unchanged. The ocean is a realm of the divine and the dangerous, and entering it requires permission and protection.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Doman Seman
For travelers interested in Japanese folklore and maritime history, the Shima Peninsula is a must-visit destination.
1. Visit the Ishigami-san Shrine
Located in the town of Osatsu, the Shinmei Shrine hosts a smaller sub-shrine known as Ishigami-san. This shrine is famous for granting one wish to any woman who prays there. It is the spiritual heart of the Ama culture. Here, you can purchase omamori (amulets) embroidered with the Doman Seman symbols. It is a popular spot for women seeking protection or luck.
2. The Amagoya Experience
Visit an Amagoya (divers’ hut), where active or retired Ama divers grill fresh seafood like abalone and lobster over an open fire. They are famously hospitable and will regale you with stories of the sea. You will see the Doman Seman carvings on the beams of these huts or on their tools.
3. Toba Sea-Folk Museum
To see historical artifacts, including ancient tools and clothing bearing the Doman Seman, this museum offers a deep dive into the history of the Ama and their unique relationship with nature and the supernatural.
Sources & Further Reading
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For context on the early spiritual history of Japan and the role of the Imperial Court.
- The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter & Uji Shui Monogatari: For early literary references to magical figures and folklore.
- Local Folklore: Records of the Shima Peninsula regarding the specific adaptation of Onmyodo symbols by maritime communities.