Chinoike Jigoku: Exploring Japan’s Blood Pond Hell
When one imagines a Japanese hot spring, the mind usually wanders to serene, milky waters nestled amidst snowy mountains or bamboo groves. However, in the geothermal powerhouse of Beppu, Oita Prefecture, the thermal waters take on a more sinister—and spectacular—appearance. Welcome to Chinoike Jigoku, or the “Blood Pond Hell,” the most visually striking and historically significant of Beppu’s famous “Seven Hells.”
This vibrant scarlet pond is not for bathing; it is for viewing, marveling, and respecting the raw power of the earth. As the oldest “Hell” (Jigoku) in Japan, Chinoike Jigoku offers a unique blend of geological wonder, historical lore, and unique cultural experiences that make it an unmissable stop on any Kyushu itinerary.
The Origins: Why is the Water Red?
The first question every traveler asks upon seeing the pool is: “Is it real?” The answer is yes. The water is naturally dyed a deep, violent shade of vermillion, reminiscent of boiling blood. This phenomenon is strictly geological rather than supernatural.
The pond is a bubbling cauldron of water maintained at approximately 78°C (172°F). Beneath the surface, high temperatures and pressure create a chemical reaction involving the natural clay at the bottom of the pond. This clay is rich in iron oxide and magnesium oxide. When the hot water reacts with these minerals, it turns into a red mud that billows up, turning the entire surface crimson. The contrast between the red steam, the orange water, and the lush green vegetation on the hillside behind the pond creates a surreal, photogenic landscape that feels distinctly otherworldly.
Legend and History: A Place of Fear and Awe
Chinoike Jigoku is not just a modern tourist trap; it has been a recognized landmark for over 1,300 years. In ancient Japan, geothermal areas were often associated with the Buddhist concept of Hell due to the sulfurous smells, the boiling mud, and the inhospitable landscape where nothing could grow.
While today we view it with curiosity, locals in the past viewed it with fear. The area was mentioned in the Bungo no Kuni Fudoki (The Topography of Bungo Province), an ancient record compiled in the 8th century. It described the area as a place where “red water boils,” marking one of the earliest recorded mentions of the site.
Folklore suggests that the boiling red water was occasionally used as a form of torture or execution in feudal times, reinforcing the “Hell” moniker. The steam rising from the pond was thought to be the breath of dragons or demons residing beneath the earth’s crust. Today, the menacing oni (demon) statues decorating the park pay homage to these fearsome legends, serving as guardians of the blood-red waters.
Modern Culture: Ointments and Foot Baths
In modern times, the fear has been replaced by commerce and relaxation. Chinoike Jigoku is famous for more than just its color; it is the birthplace of a unique skin product.
The Chinoike Ointment
For centuries, the red clay produced by the hot spring has been harvested for its medicinal properties. Known as Chinoike Nanko, this ointment is sold exclusively at the shop on the premises. It is traditionally used to treat skin conditions such as eczema, burns, insect bites, and acne. During the war era, it was even used by soldiers as a field dressing for wounds. Buying a jar of this retro-packaged ointment is a popular way to take a piece of the “Hell” home with you.
The Foot Bath
While the main pond is far too hot to enter, visitors can still experience the therapeutic waters safely. The facility includes a designated Ashiyu (foot bath) fed by the cooled waters of the spring. Soaking your feet here is said to improve circulation and soften the skin. The water in the foot bath usually appears clear or slightly reddish, lacking the intense mud density of the main pond, but it remains a relaxing break after walking the tour circuit.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting
To make the most of your trip to the Blood Pond Hell, keep these practical tips in mind:
- The Jigoku Meguri Pass: Chinoike Jigoku is one of seven “Hells” in Beppu. If you plan to visit more than two, purchase the Jigoku Meguri combination ticket (approx. 2,000 JPY). This grants access to all seven sites, including the nearby Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell).
- Access: Chinoike Jigoku is located in the Shibaseki district, slightly separated from the Kannawa district where five of the other Hells are located. From Beppu Station, take Kamenoi Bus #26 or #26A to the Chinoike Jigoku-mae bus stop. It takes about 40 minutes.
- Timing: The best time to visit is on a cool, crisp day. The steam is much more visible when the air temperature is lower, making for dramatic photography. However, avoid heavy rain, as the surface color can sometimes be diluted or obscured.
- Souvenirs: Aside from the ointment, the gift shop sells T-shirts dyed red with the clay from the pond—a truly unique memento.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical context of Japanese hot springs and geothermal legends, the following texts provide foundational knowledge:
- Bungo no Kuni Fudoki (Topography of Bungo Province): An 8th-century report commissioned by the imperial court, containing some of the earliest geographical descriptions of the Oita region and its thermal activities.
- The Kojiki: While not mentioning Chinoike specifically, this ancient chronicle establishes the Shinto beliefs regarding nature and the underworld (Yomi) that color the interpretation of places like Beppu.
- Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Similar to the Kojiki, this text provides context on early Japanese history and the reverence for natural phenomena.
Visiting Chinoike Jigoku is a reminder of the volatility of the ground beneath our feet. It is a place where science meets mythology, turning a geological anomaly into a cultural treasure.