Datsue-ba: The Clothes-Stripping Hag of the Sanzu River
When travelers think of Japanese mythology, images of noble samurai, mischievous tanuki, or serene Shinto spirits often come to mind. However, dig a little deeper into the Buddhist underworld, and you will encounter figures that are truly the stuff of nightmares. Foremost among them is Datsue-ba (奪衣婆), the “Clothes-Stripping Old Woman” of Hell.
While she may look like a frail, grotesque grandmother, Datsue-ba holds a terrifying amount of power over the souls of the deceased. For those fascinated by the macabre side of Japanese culture, understanding this figure offers a unique glimpse into how ancient Japan viewed sin, judgment, and the afterlife.
Origins and Etymology
The name Datsue-ba literally translates to “old woman who strips clothes.” She is a figure born from Japanese Buddhist eschatology, specifically related to the journey a soul takes after death. Unlike the native kami of Shinto, Datsue-ba functions as a bureaucrat of the underworld (Jigoku).
She is rarely seen alone in iconography. She is almost always accompanied by her consort, an old man named Keneō. Together, they form a terrifying checkpoint at the boundary between the living and the dead. While depictions of her vary, she is traditionally shown with wild, unkempt hair, sagging skin, and a manic expression, often clutching the robes of a newly deceased soul.
The Legend of the Sanzu River
According to Japanese Buddhist tradition, when a person dies, their soul must cross the Sanzu River (Sanzu-no-kawa) on the way to be judged by the Great King Enma. This river is the Japanese equivalent of the River Styx. It is here, on the riverbank, that Datsue-ba waits.
The Judgment of Weight
The legend says that there are three crossings: a bridge for the good, a ford for the minor sinners, and snake-infested deep waters for the wicked. Regardless of how they cross, they eventually encounter Datsue-ba.
Her duty is specific and chilling. She strips the deceased of their burial clothes. She then hands the garments to her partner, Keneō, who hangs them on the branches of a riverside tree known as the Eryō-ju.
The Weight of Sin
The Eryō-ju is no ordinary tree. The bending of its branches reflects the weight of the soul’s sins:
- Light sins: The branch barely moves.
- Heavy sins: The branch sags deeply, indicating the soul is destined for a harsher punishment in the hells.
But what if a soul arrives naked? The legend takes a gruesome turn here. If a traveler arrives without clothes, Datsue-ba does not let them pass easily. Instead, she strips them of their skin to hang upon the tree. This horrifying imagery served as a potent deterrent against sin for centuries of Japanese believers.
Datsue-ba in Modern Culture
Despite her terrifying origins, Datsue-ba has found a strange niche in modern Japanese culture. She is not merely a monster to be feared, but a deity to be appeased.
Worship and Protection
In a twist typical of Japanese folklore, Datsue-ba evolved from a tormentor into a guardian in certain sects. By the Edo period, she began to be worshipped as a deity who could cure coughs and respiratory diseases in children. It was believed that by praying to the old hag who could strip skin, one could strip away illness.
Pop Culture
Today, Datsue-ba appears in various forms of media, from traditional kabuki plays to modern anime and video games. She often appears as a boss character or a summonable demon in the Shin Megami Tensei and Persona series, introducing a new generation of global gamers to the bureaucrat of the Sanzu River.
Traveler’s Tips: Where to Find Her
For the dark tourism enthusiast, seeking out statues of Datsue-ba is a fascinating adventure. Unlike the ubiquitous Jizo statues, Datsue-ba is rarer and often tucked away in dimly lit halls.
Taiso-ji Temple (Shinjuku, Tokyo)
The most accessible and famous location to see her is Taiso-ji Temple in Shinjuku. Located just steps from the neon lights of the red-light district, this temple houses a massive, terrifying statue of Datsue-ba alongside King Enma.
- The Experience: The statue sits in a wooden hall (Emma-do). It is often closed behind glass or wire, but you can press a button to illuminate the interior. Seeing her gaunt face light up in the darkness is an unforgettable Tokyo experience.
- Festival Days: The doors are usually opened fully during the Obon festival (mid-July) and specifically on January 15-16, known as Jigoku no Kama no Futa (The Day the Lid of Hell Opens).
Sougen-ji Temple (Kappa-dera)
Located in the Kappabashi district of Tokyo, this temple is famous for Kappa legends but also houses distinct underworld imagery relevant to the folklore enthusiast.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of Datsue-ba and the Japanese afterlife, consider exploring the following texts:
- The Sutra on the Ten Kings (Jūō-kyō): This apocryphal Buddhist text detailed the journey of the dead and solidified Datsue-ba’s role in the judgment process.
- Nihon Ryōiki: While focusing on miraculous tales, this collection of Buddhist sets the stage for the karmic retribution systems where figures like Datsue-ba operate.
- Japanese Buddhist Folklore: Look for academic translations regarding Jigoku (Hell) and Pure Land Buddhism to understand the theology behind the folklore.