Atsuta Jingu: The Spiritual Heart of Nagoya
When travelers think of Nagoya, images of industry, manufacturing, and Toyota often spring to mind. Yet, nestled within this bustling metropolis lies a verdant sanctuary that predates modern Japan by nearly two millennia. Atsuta Jingu (Atsuta Shrine) is not merely a park; it is the spiritual anchor of the Chubu region and the legendary resting place of the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi (Grass-Cutting Sword), one of the Three Sacred Imperial Regalia of Japan.
Stepping through the massive torii gates into the forest of ancient camphor trees, the city noise fades away, replaced by the crunch of gravel underfoot and the scent of cypress. Join us as we explore the history, mythology, and cultural significance of this revered site.
The Origins of a Sacred Sanctuary
Atsuta Jingu is traditionally believed to have been established in 113 AD, during the reign of Emperor Keiko, the 12th Emperor of Japan. This places the shrine’s foundation deep in the misty era of Japanese antiquity, making it approximately 1,900 years old.
In the hierarchy of Shinto shrines, Atsuta Jingu holds a prestigious rank, often considered second only to the Grand Ise Jingu. While Ise is dedicated to the Sun Goddess Amaterasu directly, Atsuta is the custodian of the sword that symbolizes her authority and the legitimacy of the Imperial line. Throughout the centuries, samurai warlords, including the famous Oda Nobunaga and Tokugawa Ieyasu, patronized the shrine, praying for military victory and the safety of the realm.
The architecture reflects the Shinmei-zukuri style, characterized by unpainted wood and thatched roofs, emphasizing purity and harmony with nature. Although many buildings were reconstructed after World War II, the spiritual gravity of the location remains undiminished.
Legend of the Sword: Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi
The soul of Atsuta Jingu is undoubtedly the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi. To understand the shrine, one must delve into the mythology recorded in Japan’s oldest chronicles.
According to legend, the storm god Susanoo discovered the sword in the tail of the eight-headed serpent, Yamata-no-Orochi, after slaying the beast. He presented the blade to his sister, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu, as a reconciliation gift.
Generations later, the sword was passed down to the legendary warrior prince, Yamato Takeru. During a treacherous ambush in a burning field, the prince used the sword to cut the grass around him and control the wind, saving his life. Hence, the blade was named “Grass-Cutting Sword.” Upon the prince’s death, the sword was enshrined at Atsuta, where it remains to this day.
Note for visitors: The sword is considered a shintai (god-body) and is kept hidden deep within the inner sanctum. It is never shown to the public—not even to the Emperor.
Modern Culture and Shrine Grounds
Today, Atsuta Jingu serves as a cultural hub where the past and present converge. The shrine grounds, covering approximately 200,000 square meters, act as a “lungs of the city,” offering a serene escape for locals.
The Nobunaga Wall
History buffs will appreciate the Nobunaga-bei, a mud wall reportedly donated by the warlord Oda Nobunaga in 1560. Before the decisive Battle of Okehazama, where he faced overwhelming odds, Nobunaga prayed at Atsuta Jingu. After his miraculous victory, he built this wall in gratitude. It remains one of the three most famous walls in Japan.
Treasure Hall (Bunkaden)
While you cannot see the Sacred Sword, the Treasure Hall displays over 4,000 historical artifacts, including katanas, ancient documents, and ceremonial masks designated as Important Cultural Properties. It is a must-visit for anyone interested in Japanese craftsmanship.
Culinary Tradition: Miya Kishimen
No visit is complete without a culinary pause. On the shrine grounds, you will find a famous open-air restaurant serving Miya Kishimen. These constitute Nagoya’s signature flat udon noodles, served in a rich soy-based broth. Eating steaming noodles surrounded by the sacred forest is a quintessential Atsuta experience.
Traveler’s Tips
To make the most of your visit, keep these practical tips in mind:
- Access: The shrine is easily accessible. Take the Meitetsu line to Jingu-mae Station (just a 3-minute walk to the entrance) or the JR line to Atsuta Station.
- Etiquette: At the Temizuya (water pavilion), rinse your left hand, then your right, then your mouth, and finally the handle of the ladle before entering the main grounds. When praying at the main hall: bow twice, clap twice, pray silently, and bow once more.
- Best Time to Visit: June 5th marks the Atsuta Matsuri, the biggest festival of the year, featuring martial arts demonstrations, lantern floats, and fireworks. If you prefer quiet contemplation, arrive early in the morning (around 7:00 or 8:00 AM).
- Admission: Entry to the shrine grounds is free, though the Treasure Hall requires a small fee (approx. 300-500 yen).
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the deep mythology surrounding Atsuta Jingu and the Kusanagi sword, the following historical texts provide the primary accounts:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Completed in 712 AD, this text details the age of the gods and the exploits of Yamato Takeru.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, offering a parallel and slightly more historical account of the shrine’s origins.
- Owari no Kuni Fudoki: An ancient record of the culture and geography of the Owari province (modern-day Western Aichi).