The Usokae Ritual: Turning Lies into Luck
Japan is renowned for its myriad of festivals (matsuri), ranging from the solemn and silent to the raucous and fiery. However, few are as linguistically clever and charmingly whimsical as the Usokae Shinji, or the Bullfinch Exchange Ritual. Held annually at various Tenmangu shrines across the country, this event offers participants a chance to wipe the slate clean, spiritually speaking, by exchanging their “lies” for “truth” and good fortune.
For travelers seeking a deeper dive into Japanese folklore and the unique intersection of Shintoism and wordplay, the Usokae ritual is an unmissable cultural gem.
The Origins: A Play on Words
The Usokae ritual is deeply rooted in the Japanese language. The name comes from a double entendre involving the word uso. In Japanese, uso means “lie,” but it is also the name for the bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), a small bird with a distinctive whistle. Consequently, Usokae can be interpreted as both “exchanging bullfinches” and “exchanging lies.”
The ceremony is primarily associated with Tenmangu shrines, which enshrine the spirit of Sugawara no Michizane (also known as Tenjin), the deity of scholarship and learning. The tradition solidified during the Edo period (1603–1867), becoming a popular way for commoners to purify themselves for the New Year. The core concept is simple yet profound: by exchanging wooden carvings of bullfinches, devotees symbolically transform the lies, mistakes, and misfortunes of the previous year into truth and blessings for the year ahead.
The Legend of the Bullfinch
Why is the bullfinch the chosen avatar for this ritual? While the pun provides the mechanism for the festival, the connection between the bird and Sugawara no Michizane is steeped in legend.
There are two prevailing stories regarding the bullfinch’s holy status:
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The Insect Eater: It is said that Michizane loved plum trees (ume). However, harmful insects often attacked these trees. A flock of bullfinches famously descended upon his garden, devouring the pests and saving the beloved plum blossoms. Thus, the bird became a symbol of protection against disaster.
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The Swarm of Bees: A more dramatic legend tells of a time when Michizane was exiled to Dazaifu. While he was studying, he was attacked by a swarm of wasps or bees. Suddenly, a flock of bullfinches appeared, pecking at the insects and driving them away, thereby saving the scholar’s life.
Because of these tales, the bullfinch is revered as a messenger of Tenjin, capable of pecking away bad luck and bringing happiness.
Modern Culture: How the Ritual Works
Today, the Usokae ritual is a lively event usually held in January. The most famous celebrations occur at the Dazaifu Tenmangu in Fukuoka and the Kameido Tenjin Shrine in Tokyo.
In the traditional iteration of the festival, participants would gather in a dim hall, chanting “Kaemashou, kaemashou” (“Let’s exchange, let’s exchange”). They would blindly swap their wooden birds with strangers. Among thousands of wooden birds, a few were painted gold. If you ended up with a golden bird (a kin-no-uso) by the end of the ceremony, it was believed you would be blessed with exceptional luck for the year.
In modern times, to manage crowd control, the chaos of the blind swap has largely been replaced—particularly at the Tokyo shrines. Now, visitors typically purchase a new wooden bullfinch from the shrine priests to replace their old one from the previous year. However, the thrill remains: many shrines include a lottery number on the bottom of the wooden bird. Lucky winners receive a pure gold or large ceremonial bullfinch statue.
The wooden carvings themselves are distinctly beautiful. Known as kibori uso, they are often chiseled in a rustic, angular style known as ittou-bori (single-knife carving), making them fantastic folk-art souvenirs.
Traveler’s Tips for the Usokae Ritual
If you plan to attend, preparation is key, as these events attract thousands of locals.
- Locations: The “Big Three” for this ritual are Dazaifu Tenmangu (Fukuoka), Kameido Tenjin (Tokyo), and Yushima Tenmangu (Tokyo).
- Dates:
- Dazaifu Tenmangu: usually held on January 7th.
- Kameido Tenjin: usually held on January 24th and 25th.
- Arrive Early: The wooden bullfinches are limited in number. At Kameido Tenjin, lines can snake around the block starting as early as 6:00 AM. If you want a specific size of the carving, get there early.
- Dress Warmly: You will be standing outside in the Japanese winter for an extended period.
- Cash Only: Shrines generally do not accept credit cards for amulets or ritual items. Bring plenty of small yen notes.
- Return the Old: If you participate two years in a row, it is customary to return your old bird to the shrine’s burning pile and buy a slightly larger one each year, symbolizing growing fortune.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the deeper context of Sugawara no Michizane and Japanese mythology, the following texts and historical records are recommended:
- The Kitano Tenjin Engi Emaki: These are the illustrated handscrolls detailing the history of Kitano Tenjin and the life of Sugawara no Michizane. They are the primary source for the legends connecting Michizane to natural phenomena.
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): While pre-dating Michizane, this text is essential for understanding the Shinto reverence for nature and animals as messengers of the Kami (gods).
- Dazaifu Tenmangu Archives: The shrine preserves local records detailing the evolution of the Usokae festival from the Edo period to the present day.