Dazaifu’s Mystery: The Legend of the Flying Plum Tree (Tobiume)
Japan is a land where history and mythology often bleed into one another, creating a tapestry of stories that define its cultural landscape. Among the thousands of Shinto shrines scattered across the archipelago, few possess a backstory as poignant or as botanical as Dazaifu Tenmangu in Fukuoka Prefecture. At the heart of this shrine stands a single, gnarled tree known as the Tobiume, or the “Flying Plum Tree.” According to folklore, this tree did not grow in Dazaifu originally—it flew there, driven by loyalty and love for its master.
Origins: The Scholar and the Exile
To understand the legend, one must first understand the man behind it: Sugawara no Michizane (845–903). Michizane was a brilliant scholar, poet, and high-ranking politician during the Heian period. He rose to prominence in the imperial court in Kyoto, gaining the favor of Emperor Uda. However, his rapid ascent drew the jealousy of the powerful Fujiwara clan.
Through political maneuvering and slander, the Fujiwara rivals convinced the subsequent Emperor Daigo that Michizane was plotting treason. In the year 901, Michizane was stripped of his high rank and banished to Dazaifu, a remote government outpost in Kyushu, far from the cultured elegance of the capital. It was a sentence meant to humiliate and isolate him until his death.
The Legend of Tobiume
Before leaving Kyoto for his sorrowful exile, Michizane visited his beloved garden one last time to bid farewell to his cherished trees: a pine, a cherry, and a plum tree. Overwhelmed with grief, he composed a famous waka poem addressed to the plum tree, which was in full bloom:
Kochi fukaba / nioi okose yo / ume no hana / aruji nashi tote / haru na wasure so
“When the east wind blows, let it send your fragrance to me, oh plum blossoms. Although your master is gone, do not forget the spring.”
According to the legend, the trees were so moved by their master’s sorrow that they reacted in miraculous ways. The cherry tree, unable to bear the separation, withered and died of grief in Kyoto. The pine tree attempted to follow Michizane but ran out of energy and fell in what is now Hyogo Prefecture (giving rise to the “Flying Pine” legends of that region).
The plum tree, however, possessed the strongest spirit. Fueled by the wind and its deep longing for Michizane, it uprooted itself and flew through the night sky, traversing hundreds of kilometers from Kyoto to Kyushu. It landed in the garden of Michizane’s residence in Dazaifu, reuniting with its master. This miraculous tree became known as Tobiume (Flying Plum).
Modern Culture and Symbolism
Today, the Tobiume still stands to the right of the main sanctuary (Honden) at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. It is revered as a sacred tree (shinboku). Uncannily, it is always the first plum tree to bloom in the shrine grounds, often blossoming in early January, weeks ahead of the 6,000 other plum trees that populate the area.
Sugawara no Michizane was eventually deified as Tenjin, the kami (god) of learning, scholarship, and literature. Because of his love for the flower, the plum blossom has become the crest and symbol of Tenjin shrines across Japan. Every year, millions of students flock to Dazaifu to pray for success in entrance exams, buying amulets that bear the plum blossom insignia.
The legend also influences local cuisine. The most famous souvenir from Dazaifu is Ume-gae-mochi (plum branch rice cake). While the cake contains no actual plum, it is stamped with a plum blossom pattern and is linked to a story where an old woman offered a hungry Michizane a rice cake wrapped on a plum branch.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting the Flying Plum Tree is a journey into the heart of Japanese spiritual history. Here is how to make the most of your trip.
Best Time to Visit
While Dazaifu Tenmangu is beautiful year-round, the best time to see the Tobiume is in early February. Because the Flying Plum blooms earlier than others, visiting in late January or early February ensures you see its white blossoms. To see the entire shrine complex in a sea of pink and white, aim for mid-to-late February.
Getting There
From Fukuoka (Hakata Station), take the bus directly to Dazaifu, or take the subway to Tenjin Station and transfer to the Nishitetsu Line. The express train will take you to Dazaifu Station in about 20 minutes.
What to Do
- Pray at the Honden: Pay respects to Tenjin-sama. Even if you aren’t a student, he is the patron of arts and literature.
- Eat Ume-gae-mochi: Purchase these grilled rice cakes fresh from the vendors lining the Omotesando (approach path). They are best eaten hot and crispy.
- Visit the Kyushu National Museum: Located just a short walk (via a massive escalator) from the shrine, this museum offers deep dives into Asian cultural exchange.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical and literary context of Sugawara no Michizane and the Heian period, the following texts are recommended:
- The Okagami (The Great Mirror): A historical tale (rekishi monogatari) from the late Heian period that documents the life and exile of Michizane.
- The Kitano Tenjin Engi: A scroll painting and text that illustrates the origins of the Tenjin cult and the vengeful spirit of Michizane prior to his deification.
- Kojiki and Nihon Shoki: While these texts predate Michizane, they provide the foundational mythology of Shinto and the concept of kami essential for understanding shrine culture.