Hoichi’s Biwa: The Haunting Ballad of the Earless Monk
Japan is a country where the line between the living and the spirit world is often portrayed as mist-thin. Among its thousands of ghost stories (kaidan), few are as culturally significant or as chilling as the story of Mimi-nashi Hōichi (Hoichi the Earless). Set against the backdrop of a tragic civil war and immortalized by the haunting sounds of the biwa (Japanese lute), this legend draws travelers to the coastal city of Shimonoseki to this day.
Introduction
The image of a blind monk, playing a lute in a graveyard for an audience of weeping ghosts, is one of the most enduring motifs in Japanese folklore. The story of Hoichi’s Biwa is not just a scary tale; it is a lament for the fallen and a testament to the power of music. While popularized in the West by Lafcadio Hearn in his 1904 book Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things, the narrative is deeply rooted in actual historical events that shaped the nation.
Origins: The Fall of the Heike
To understand Hoichi, one must understand the tragedy of the Genpei War (1180–1185). The story is centered on the decisive Battle of Dan-no-ura, fought in the Shimonoseki Strait. Here, the Heike (Taira) clan was utterly destroyed by the Genji (Minamoto) clan.
The defeat was catastrophic. The Taira child-emperor, Antoku, was drowned by his grandmother to avoid capture, along with hundreds of samurai who plunged into the sea. Local lore suggests that the Heike crabs (Heike-gani) found in these waters bear the faces of the angry samurai on their shells. The sheer scale of death reportedly turned the sea red and left a lingering spiritual energy that sets the stage for Hoichi’s encounter.
The Legend of Hoichi the Earless
According to the legend, centuries after the battle, a blind biwa hōshi (lute priest) named Hoichi lived at Amidaji Temple (now Akama Shrine), overlooking the strait. Hoichi was famous for his recitation of The Tale of the Heike, a ballad recounting the fall of the Taira clan.
The Midnight Invitation
One night, a gravelly-voiced samurai appeared and summoned Hoichi to play for a “high-ranking lord.” Blind and unaware, Hoichi was led to a mysterious court where he performed the tragic ballad. The audience was moved to tears by his music. This continued for several nights, draining Hoichi’s vitality.
The Priest’s Discovery
The head priest of the temple grew suspicious of Hoichi’s nightly disappearances. He sent servants to follow the musician. To their horror, they found Hoichi sitting alone in the pouring rain in the middle of the Heike cemetery, playing frantically to the mossy tombstones of the fallen emperor and his samurai. He was surrounded by ghost fires (onibi).
The Heart Sutra and the Mistake
Realizing Hoichi was being lured to his death by vengeful spirits, the priest devised a protection plan. He painted the text of the Heart Sutra all over Hoichi’s body to make him invisible to the ghosts. He instructed Hoichi to sit silent and motionless when the samurai returned.
However, in the rush, the priest and his acolyte made a grave error: they forgot to write the sutra on Hoichi’s ears.
That night, the ghostly samurai returned. He could not see Hoichi’s body, but he saw two ears hovering in the air. To show his master he had tried to retrieve the musician, the ghost ripped the ears from Hoichi’s head. Hoichi survived, but he was forever known as “Mimi-nashi Hōichi”—Hoichi the Earless.
Modern Culture and Legacy
Today, the story of Hoichi remains a pillar of Japanese horror and cultural history. It was vividly brought to life in Masaki Kobayashi’s 1964 anthology film Kwaidan, a masterpiece of visual storytelling that introduced the surreal, painted aesthetic of Japanese horror to the world.
The figure of the biwa hōshi is central to Japanese oral tradition. These blind monks were the original keepers of history, traveling the country to sing of war and peace. Hoichi serves as the archetype of the artist whose skill is so profound it bridges the gap between worlds.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Akama Shrine
For those wishing to pay respects to Hoichi and the Heike clan, a trip to Shimonoseki in Yamaguchi Prefecture is essential.
- Akama Shrine: This bright red shrine is dedicated to the drowned Emperor Antoku. It is built on the grounds of the former Amidaji Temple.
- Hoichi-do (Hoichi Hall): Within the shrine precincts, there is a small wooden hall housing a statue of Hoichi playing his biwa. The atmosphere here is often described as somber and heavy.
- The Heike Tombs: Located next to the Hoichi Hall, these seven mounds are the real graves of the Taira warriors, adding a chilling layer of reality to the legend.
- Sentei Sai Festival: Held every May, this festival commemorates the Heike clan. It features a procession of courtesans and rites to console the spirits, offering a vibrant glimpse into the history behind the ghost story.
Sources & Further Reading
To delve deeper into the history and folklore mentioned above, the following texts are highly recommended:
- The Tale of the Heike (Heike Monogatari): The epic historical classic comparable to the Iliad, detailing the Genpei War. This is the song Hoichi was singing.
- Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things by Lafcadio Hearn: The seminal English-language collection that preserved this tale.
- Nihon Shoki and Kojiki: While these ancient texts chronicle the age of the gods, they establish the imperial lineage of Emperor Antoku and the Shinto foundations of the shrines involved.